Exploring Spain’s Mediterranean Coastline

For those who are unfamiliar with Spain, outside of the occasional trip to one of the touristic hotspots like the Costa del Sol, you may actually be surprised and amazed at the cultural delights and magnificent natural landscapes that can be found around this vast and beautiful country. From the lush green forests of Galicia and Asturias to the breathtaking oasis of Ruidera, there are and endless amount of places to explore, with each new location offering you something new.

Spain’s Mediterranean coastline stretches for an amazing 1660km and a trip along it will offer you more adventure and captivating sights than you ever imagined. If you like to travel in style and comfort, and have your trip laid out for you, perhaps one of the best ways to explore the southern coastline is on a Spanish cruise holiday as this will afford you all of the luxury as well as the sights and sounds of Spain. Some of the best attractions along the southern coast are actually the old ports such as the magnificent harbor at the old Roman city of Cartagena, and you will get to get the full experience as you sail into the port and dock up. 

It is also possible to travel along much of the coast by train: from Barcelona (or you could start in Perpignan, located in French Catalunya) to Valencia to Malaga. RENFE is Spain's national train service. If you want to travel to Gibraltar from Malaga, you can buy a commuter train ticket as far south as Fuengirola, then you will have to either take a bus to La Linea, which is the town on the Spanish side of the border, or you can rent a car and drive into Gibraltar. A taxi from Fuengirola to Gibraltar is also a possibility, which would take about 1 hour, 15 minutes. At the time of this writing, the fare would be about 80 euros. 

If you prefer to tackle the vast expanse of coastline by car, you are likely to be in for a whole different experience, including some rather hot and sweaty days spent in the car in summer, unless you have air-conditioning! Taking the road option does give you much more flexibility on your destinations and timing, and it also allows you to fully explore the real hidden gems of southern Spain. Here are some of the finest locations to visit along the coast, starting from Andalucía in the west and ending up in the dramatic coastline of northern Catalunya.

Andalucía and Almeria

Malaga is an ideal start point if you are taking a road trip as it is easy to fly into and there are lots of places to find cheap car hire. If you want to get the ‘traditional’ Spanish holiday experience, you could head to the touristic beaches of the Costa del Sol to soak in some rays and indulge in some sangria. Heading east from here, you can discover the ‘pueblo blancos’ which are the white villages of Axarquia. There are lots of quaint little Spanish villages in the region which are all made up of immaculately painted white buildings. Salobrena is a particularly interesting location as it is home to an Arab castle from the 10^th Century, which sits overlooking the sea. As you head further east from here, you will enter the much forgotten about region of Almeria, which is home to some spectacular sights such as the Cabo de Gata, and the only recognized dessert in Western Europe, Desierto de Tabernas.

Murcia and Levante

Murcia is a relatively small, but very interesting region of the coastline, which is home to the aforementioned historic port of Cartagena as well as some beautiful beaches and even a set of hot springs. The seaside town of Mazaron is a great place to stop off if you are looking for some comfort and time to relax on the beach, and from here you can head on up the coast towards the famous Levante Español which is where some of the most popular seaside resorts (Benidorm, Torreveija, Gandia) in Spain are situated. If these locations do not take your fancy, there are plenty of great alternative destinations to visit, including the 21,000 hectare freshwater lagoon at Albufera de Valencia. This is a wildlife haven that is home to huge numbers of birds and fish, and is a great place to stop off and relax.

Catalunya

To the north of Levante is the Spanish ‘Golden Coast’ which is called Costa Duarada, and although the beaches in this region are extremely busy during the summer months, there are some great places to visit inland a little way including the spectacular national parks of Poblet and Sierra del Montsant, and the largest wetland region in Europe, the Ebro Delta. There are also some lovely little villages and towns in these regions which have not been invaded by mass tourism, but instead go about life upholding many of the old traditions.

Just 90Km further north is one of the most fascinating places in the whole of Europe, Barcelona. If you really want to get the full Barcelona experience, you should put by at least four days to spend in this magnificent city as there is just so much to discover. Although it is a huge and vibrant city, popular with tourists from all over the world, there are still some untouched seaside locations just a stone’s throw from the main city. Tamariu, Llafranc, and Calella are some worth investigating.

By Melissa Hathaway (mostly) and Carloz (a very little)

A Holy Week Confession / Una Confesión de Semana Santa

What's the confession? Simply that I find Spain's Semana Santa observances really boring.

.
Well, having the week off I find interesting, but the Semana Santa celebrations held throughout Spain are sooooooooooo boring. The first time I saw one of the traditional processions, I initially found the phenomenon rather interesting. After the first hour or so, however, my mind started wandering -- and wondering what the big deal was about. I ended up feeling like I was at a slow motion, humorless Mardi Gras parade on downers.

.

Despite the history, the color, the pageantry, the crowds, and the obvious effort put into the events by the organizing groups (called brotherhoods and fraternities / hermandades y cofradías), these are simply people traipsing about in somewhat frightening looking “penitential robes” (think KKK), carrying enormous religious tableaus (similar to those that can be seen in many Roman Catholic churches) and marching methodically to mind-numbing dirges. You almost expect to see self-flagellating footsloggers somwhere in all the fanfare. What fun!

.

Maybe "ominously boring" would be a good way of describing such depressing extravaganzas. To me it's sort of like a bad dream that keeps repeating -- here comes another group of hooded men laboring under another massive platform that holds another brightly painted Sacred Heart / Virgin Mary / Crucifixion / Martyred Saint sculpture, followed by another group of robed acolytes, followed by another group of candle-carrying women in black, followed by another group of hooded men laboring under another massive platform that holds another brightly painted Sacred Heart / Virgin Mary / Crucifixion / Martyred Saint sculpture, followed by another group of robed acolytes, followed by another group of candle-carrying women in black, followed by another group of hooded men... All to the accompaniment of incessant drumming, mournful wailing, and/or brass instruments slowly blaring funereal hymns.

.
I find Barcelona a good place to spend this holiday week because there are not very many Semana Santa spectacles, and, therefore they are easy to avoid. In many other cities, especially in Andalusia, they seem to almost completely take over the streets. I speak from some experience, because despite my negative reaction to that first Semana Santa scene, I have given it a try in various Spanish cities, including Alicante, Granada, Malaga and Palma de Majorca.

.

Being in Palma was similar to being in Barcelona (i.e., no problems skipping the realtively few parades), so I enjoyed every bit of my time there. While I loved the cities of Alicante and Malaga, I did so despite visiting during Semana Santa. Alicante didn't have as many parades as Malaga and in both places I could at least head to the beach for a little respite when there were "festivities" droning on. In landlocked Granada, however, I was more or less trapped. Indeed, I remember feeling almost hounded by the city's seemingly non-stop processions!
.
Instead of the memory of that experience fading, it has actually expanded to include fantastic images of myself being pursued by penitents down Granada's ancient streets, which in my mind seem to wind around in an Escher-like labyrinth. I try to get away from them and turn one corner after another only to keep stumbling upon more giant icons looming above throngs of mesmerized people wearing tunics, hoods and masks. As I am pushed and shoved around I sense that the participants are all trying to absorb me into the crowd so that I will be converted into one of the hordes of zombies condemned to an eternity of watching the monotonous marches go...by...so...very...very...slowly.

.

(George A. Romero could have a field day with this “false memory” of mine – not to mention Freud!)
.
So, having experienced traditional Semana Santa events in the past, when this time of year rolls around I flatly refuse to go to places like Seville and Cadiz, which are supposed to have some of the "best" celebrations. No, I prefer to be on a beach somewhere in Catalonia.
.
Hasta siempre amig@s,
.
Carloz

AVE Barcelona, AVE Madrid

A bullet train now connects Barcelona and Madrid! The BCN-Madrid AVE began its first commercial runs day before yesterday -- 12 years after construction was begun and 3 weeks before national elections. The trains were originally supposed to start running before Christmas.

.

Traveling at speeds up to 350 ks per hour, the non-stop trip took just over 2 1/2 hours -- two hours and 38 minutes, to be exact. One newspaper reported that the train arrived in Barcelona 5 minutes early and another claimed it was 8 minutes early. The train trip used to take about 6 hours.

.

AVE trains will leave Madrid and Barcelona at least every hour between 6am and 9pm. There will be 34 trains weekly: 15 trains will be direct and 19 will make stops in Zaragoza, Lleida and Tarragona. The non-direct runs will take about 3 hours 15 minutes.

.

While a few tickets on selected runs are as low as 40 euros each way if bought on-line at least 15 days in advance, most round trip tickets cost between 162 and 192 euros. Airline tickets can be found for as little as 25 euros.

.

The construction of the train has been quite controversial, with delays, cost overruns and damage to neighboring buildings. Concerns were heightened when several residential buildings in Barcelona collapsed due to under ground construction on Metro line five. 1,000 people were left home less and 15,000 were affected. (Click here for more details about this incident.) Although this was due to construction on the Metro and not the AVE, it caused concern because the AVE runs underground within the city of Barcelona.

.

So, when residents along the AVE line found cracks in their walls and damage to the foundations of buildings, there was understandable concern that a similar tragedy might occur along the AVE line. When a sinkhole appeared on the line, damaging not only buildings but a railway platform, criticism grew. The government recently announced a process whereby property owners along the line can file for financial compensation for damages.

.

With the AVE set to be extended to France, the controversy is not over. The remainder of the line is being constructed under Barcelona's Sagrada Famila and there are people who believe that puts the structure at risk. The AVE tunnel will also pass under another Antoni Gaudi jewel, the Mila House, also known as La Pedrera. A Sagrada Familia Preservation Society was formed to challenge the construction.

.

AVE stands for Alta Velocidad Española (Spanish High Speed). AVEs already run between Madrid and Sevilla, Madrid and Malaga, Madrid and Huesca, and Madrid and Vallodolid. (It almost sounds like all trains in Spain lead to Madrid, doesn't it?) More high speed rail lines are planned throughout the country, with the aim being that by 2010 all provincial capitals will be at most only 4 hours from Madrid. There's even talk of a Madrid - Lisbon line.

.

Chao amig@s,

.

Carloz

New Year's Day in Getxo

I haven't got much time, but I wanted to post something on the first day of 2008. So, I'll write a little about the place where I spent this cool, sunny day.
.
Getxo is a beach town within the greater metropolitan area of Bilbao. It is located at the mouth of the Nervion river, just inland from the Bay of Biscay. It offers great views of the bay, especially towards the north.
.
One such area is La Galea, which is where this post's photo was taken. This cliff top spot has a little park next to the abandoned fort and lighthouse that give the place its name. Aside from a sign reading "La Fortaleza La Galea" (Galea Fort), there was no other information posted about the fort, but it seemed to me to be at least a couple of hundred years old. It's a great spot for picnicking -- and I say that from experience.

.
Other sites I enjoyed in Getxo included several stunning 19th century mansions, some lovely parks, a series of relaxing water-side walkways, a hill-side elevator that provides a nice view of the river and bay, and the 1893 "transporter bridge". This contraption is also known as a "ferry bridge," because it is sort of a combination of the two, that carries cars across the river in a gondola. What a great ride!
.
Hasta luego amig@s,
.
Carloz

Mercy, mercy me, it's La Merce!

Today has been another public holiday in Barcelona. The last one was September 11th, which is sort of "Catalonia Day" and is called the Diada. Today, September 24th, is a holiday in the city of Barcelona, not in all of Catalonia nor anywhere else in Spain. It's called "La Mercè" which means The Mercy and which refers to Our Lady of Mercy. It's Barcelona's "Fiesta Mayor" or "Main Festival."
.
Every city, town and village in Spain has a "fiesta mayor" and many were originally based on saints and such. In big cities, in addition to the official ones which are public holidays, every neighborhood has it's own little "fiesta mayor" which, while not official holidays, involve such things as parades, street parties, communal meals, concerts, carnivals for children, etc. I suppose one of the reasons for these little fiestas is that many big city neighborhoods were once separate towns. Anyway, just about every week in Barcelona there is a neighborhood "fiesta mayor" somewhere. But La Merce is the whopper of 'em all.
.
Nearly every corner of the city has had something going on this weekend, including parades, firework displays, food tents, arts and crafts booths, outdoor concerts, etc. I just came in from the final parade of day, the Parade of the Giants. The giants, known as "gigantes y cabezudos" in Spanish, are made of paper mache and are worn like a costume by marhers. Cartoonish and imposing at the same time, they are representative of Kings, Queens, Pirates, Fishmongers, Laborers, Dragons and more. There was one of a woman with a breast exposed who was holding a platter with a stingray on it. I couldn't quite figure that one out. There was also a pair of giants dressed like a priest and a showgirl that seemed to resemble Prime Minister Zapatero and his wife. Hmmmm.

.

One of my favorite parts of the close of the festivities is the ability to walk in the middle of Via Laietana at dusk with hundreds of other people. This street, normally full of vehicular traffic, is converted into a pedestrian walkway after the parade. Walking in the middle of it allows for a different perspective of the architecture.
.
On my way home tonight I also walked through the street carnival that has been set up near the Barceloneta Yacht Basin. To be honest I had one thing in mind -- to buy fresh, hot, sugar-coated churros! My objective was easily reached, so now I will say goodbye and enjoy the treat. (OK, OK... I admit I ate a few before I got home. However, more await!)
.
Chao amig@s,
.
Carloz

.

P.S. I was inspired this weekend to translate/adapt the articles about La Merce that appear in the Spanish and Catalan versions of Wikipedia for the English version, since it had contained nothing about the holiday previously. If you want to read about its history, click the following link: La Merce on Wiki.

.

P.S. The photo above is from Larry&Flo's postings on Flickr. For more great photos of the event visit their pages.

From the seaside to the hillside - Part 2 (Plaza Cataluña)

Once at Plaza Urquinaona, the center of Barcelona, Plaza Cataluña, is only a block away. And it is from here that the trip from the seaside to the hillside continues.

.

Plaza Cataluña (or Plaça Catalunya in Catalan; Catalonia Square in English) covers 50,000 square meters (162,500 square feet) and dates from the end of the 19th century, when the medieval wall surrounding the old city was torn down. Since then it has been the site of everything from a circus at the turn of the century, to gun battles during the Spanish civil war, to political gatherings during the democratic transition, to crowds of tourists in recent years. Along with people from all over the world, it is usually packed with pigeons, sight seeing buses, city buses and taxis. There are also plenty of motor scooters and bicycles parked all around the square. During Barcelona's many fiestas there are often live musical performances held in the plaza, with the square jam packed with revelers. Unfortunately, purse snatchers and pick pockets are often around also.

.

People walk through or sit on one of the many benches in and around the square or even lie down on the grass under the fountain and sunbathe! There are only about four sidewalk cafes / restaurants (e.g., Cafe Zurich, Cafe Catalunya, Hard Rock Cafe's terrace and Farggi Ice Cream) and none of them would I recommend for much besides the people watching.

.

However, I understand that before the civil war Plaza Cataluña was quite a hotbed of theater and cafe life. No theaters have survived and the only cafe that remains from those days is the Cafe Zurich. It is still a popular meeting spot, but don't go there hoping to glimpse a bit of history, as it has been completely rebuilt to suit the El Triangle shopping center that was built around it.

.

For a great aerial view of the plaza, go to the restaurant at the top of El Corte Inglés department store. Food and drinks are not too pricey and if you manage to get a window seat the views are unequaled.

.

There is a large ceramic star embedded in the center of the square, which is supposed to mark the center of Barcelona. There is also a large water fountain, some neo-classical sculptures and the ugly, indeed almost scary-looking, monument to former regional president Francesc Macia. (The top of this sculpture looks like it might topple over onto the bust of Macia at any moment. The creator of this modern monstrosity is Subirachs.)

.

Sitting in the reflecting pool behind the monument is a statue with an interesting history. It is “La Diosa” (La Deessa in Catalan, The Goddess in English), which was sculpted by Josep Clara (1878-1958) between 1908 and 1910. It depicts a nude woman bathing herself. In the early 20th century it was deemed obscene by the then dictator Primo de Rivera and therefore was removed during his rule. (I'm sure he must be spinning in his grave at how much Spain has changed -- now real women and men bathe nude at beaches!)

.

In the plaza there is also an attractive little statue by Pablo Gargallo (1881-1934) -- El Pastor de La Flauta (Shepherd with Flute). This is actually a reproduction of the original, which stood here from 1927 to 1986. The original is now in the Pablo Gargallo museum in Zaragoza to protect it from environmental damage.

.

Another statue overlooks the square from on high, this one from the face of the building at number 21. (The Hard Rock Cafe is in the same building.) I do not know the history of this statue, but like to think of him as the legendary medieval knight Roland. (Rolando in Spanish, Rotllà in Catalan.) Roland's legend, so significant throughout Europe that most cities have a statue of him, is given a unique twist in Cataluña, where he is often portrayed as a giant in local fiestas.

.

Some of the more notable architecture includes the Banco Español de Credito from 1941, the Telefonica building, from 1928, and the Banco de España building from 1948. Walk along the Northeastern side of this building and you can look up to find a guardian angel looking down on you. Sculpted by Madrid artist Angel Ferrant y Vazquez (1890-1961), it commemorates the legend that an angel appeared to Saint Vincent Ferrer (1350-1419) as he stood near this spot outside one of the ancient city gates and reassured him that Barcelona would always be protected by God.

.

While you're there, you must stop in next door at one of the best -- and best priced -- ice cream parlors / sweet shops in town, Planelles - Donat. Aside from incredibly delicious ice cream, shakes, chilled drinks and hot drinks, this gourmet shop, which has been in business since the end of the 19th century, also makes and sells its own brand of two very popular Spanish treats -- horchata and turrón. Horchata is a creamy cold drink made from tiger nuts. Turrón is a chunky candy bar filled with nougat and nuts.

.

Back at Plaza Cataluña, two of the most prominent edifices are modern buildings -- the El Triangle shopping center and the large El Corte Inglés department store. El Triangle houses various stores, including the large FNAC book/music/electronics store and the aforementioned Zurich Cafe. El Corte Inglés is similar to Macy's, except that like other European department stores, it has a supermarket in the basement. Since it bought out the Spanish division of Marks and Spencer, El Corte Inglés is just about the only department store chain in Spain.

.

Protruding from the stark Southeastern side of El Corte Inglés is the ornate remnant of a window from the building that once stood there. The intricate facade depicts several women playing musical instruments, including a drum, an accordion and a flute. I suppose it was just to pretty to demolish along with the rest of the building and, so, it hangs there, "en memoriam."

.

To me, the most captivating structure on the square is the one I have not been able to discover much about: the Catalana Occidental Insurance building on the corner of Paseo de Gracia and Ronda San Pedro. This castle like structure dates from the end of the 19th century and today houses offices and apartments. I have learned that it was financed by banker and politician Manuel Girona Agrafel (1818-1905) and was originally called "La Sud America." (If anyone knows anything about the history of this building, please leave a comment.)

.

Several important commercial streets converge on Plaza Cataluña: Rambla Cataluña, Las Ramblas, Paseo de Gracia, Puerta del Angel, Ronda San Pedro, Ronda Universidad and Calle Pelayo. (In Catalan, these are all: Rambla Catalunya, Las Ramblas, Passeig de Gracia, Portal de l'Angel, Ronda Sant Pere, Ronda Universitat and Carrer Pelai.) All of these streets make the area a shopper's paradise.

.

In addition, there is a lot of life under the plaza, including the main City of Barcelona Tourist Information Center, two metro lines (the Green and Red lines), a Spanish rail (Renfe) station, a Catalan rail (Ferrocarril) station and a few little cafes, shops and newsstands accompanying them.

.

To get to our hillside destination, we will head under Plaza Catalunya to take the Ferrocarril. More to come in Part 3.

From the seaside to the hillside - Part 1 (Via Laietana)

Some of my favorite routes to follow in Barcelona extend from the seafront, where I live, to the hills that surround the city. There are several to choose from, but today I will write about the beginning of a journey I regularly take, and in fact took this past weekend, with a friend: from Barceloneta up to the hills and back.
.
The first part of the journey goes from Barceloneta to Plaza Cataluña, and includes one of my favorite inner-city trajectories – traveling up Via Laietana. I initially started going this way to bypass the throngs of tourists that normally clog Las Ramblas. However, I quickly came to appreciate it for other reasons.
.
Named after the Bronze age Laietani tribes that inhabited the region, Via Laietana is a straight road that was built in 1907 to cut through the old town and link the city's seaside with the growing neighborhood called the Extension (Ensanche in Spanish; Eixample in Catalan) dating from the latter half of the previous century.
.
It is usually a very busy street, but with it's wide sidewalks, four lanes and proximity to so much history, it is a good one for a stroll or a bicycle ride. Via Laietnana is also anchored by two rather nice urban plazas: the airy Pl. Antonio Lopez at the end nearest the sea and the tree-lined Pl. Urquinaona near the city center.
.
Pl. Antonio Lopez is across from what was once the city's port and is now a yacht basin. Here you will find the striking “Correos” building – Barcelona's main post office, which was erected in 1926/27. (On one side of this building is Que Bo, the great little sandwich shop I wrote of previously.)
.
By simply walking around this square that stretches over two blocks, you can glimpse the medieval edges of the old town, structures from the 18th century, buildings from the years just before the Spanish civil war and one very bright spot from the late 20th century – Roy Liechtenstein's comic book colored “Barcelona Head” statue.
.
On the other hand, Pl. Urquinaona is a more closed-in square with many shade trees, quite a few comfortable park benches and bordered by shops, cafes, restaurants as well as by multiple Metro station entrances. (The Metro station is also known as Urquinaona. The unusual sounding name is from an Andalusian who was bishop of Barcelona in the 1800s.)
.
One of the interesting aspects of Via Laietana is its collection of early 20th century architecture -- mostly banks, government offices, guilds and other institutional buildings. The street offers a mix of styles: Art Nouveau / Modernist, Neo-Gothic, Rationalist, etc. This line up occasionally breaks open to reveal a little of Barcelona's Roman, Gothic and Medieval history just a few feet behind it.
.
At least one pre-20th century building can be found on the avenue itself. This is “Casa de Veler” at number 50, which dates from 1758. Today it is the home of the Federación Nacional de Empresarios Textiles Sederos. (National Federation of Silk Textile Employers.)
.

Right next to it, but not actually on Via Laietana, is the much more well known Palau de la Musica an incredible Art Nouveau structure dating from 1905. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a very popular tourist attraction and an actual concert hall.
.
Back on Via Laietana, this time at number 80, you will find the impressive Caja de Pensiones building (pictured above), constructed in 1917. It looks rather cathedral-like, with it's white Neo-Gothic facade, but it is in fact home to Spain's most popular savings bank, La Caixa. A few other sites along the avenue include:

• Pl. Antoni Maura, located at about numbers 37 and 42, is where Av. De la Catedral and Av. Francesc Cambo face each other. Despite being called “Avenues” these are actually two very spacious plazas. Av de la Catedral is the square where Barcelona's Cathedral stands; whereas Av. Francesc Cambo is a square holding a colorful and recently renovated public market, Santa Caterina;


• Pl. Ramon Berenguer, at about number 29, has a recessed green area with a few benches tucked beneath a remnant of Barcelona's Roman wall;


• Pl. del Angel, at about number 25, borders an ancient little street named Llibreteria, which was at one time the road that connected Barcelona and Rome.

Really, there is tons more to see on, and around, Via Laietana, so it is a great place to invest time in. Aside from all the sites and activities, it is also such a wide open street that it is a good vantage point to observe that Barcelona rises from the sea to the hills. The breadth, width and incline of the avenue combine with the grand looking architecture to provide pleasing views during a walk or a bike ride – whether it's just passing through, as I do when I head out on one of my jaunts up the into the hills, or for a more leisurely look at the obvious and not so obvious treasures along the way.
.
Well, I haven't gotten very far -- not even past the city center! -- but soon I'll tell you about the rest of one of my favorite routes to the hills.

Globalization: The BBC pays Spanish speakers to speak Spanish in America

The British Broadcasting Corporations' BBC Mundo (the Spanish version of BBC World) has sent two bi-lingual Spanish-English speakers traveling across the USA speaking only Spanish. Reporter Jose Baig and video producer Carlos Ceresole are going from Florida to California over the next week days in a rented truck on a project called "¿Hablas español?" Their goal is, "to cross the country without uttering a word of English."
.
Baig claims that, "there are a lot more Spanish speakers in the US than one tends to think. It's just a matter of asking: 'Do you speak Spanish?' "
.
There are certainly a lot of Spanish speakers in the US, but it's still a relatively small minority of the entire population. Therefore, I think these guys will be severely tempted to fall back on their English at times, despite their having chosen a route along the frontier with Latin America, where the heaviest concentration of Spanish speaking immigrants and their descendants live.
.
I wonder if they know they're following a route similar to Cabeza de Vaca's; although, he only made it from Florida to Arizona - and it took him eight years, instead of eight days! Regardless, Baig's and Ceresole's latter day version should be interesting, if rather rushed.
.
Readers of Spanish can follow their progress via Baig's blog. If you are a Spanish speaker living in one of the places on their itinerary, they would like to hear from you and, who knows, maybe even do an interview. And they are interested in hearing from anyone who speaks Spanish, not just native-speakers. The cities and towns are:
.
St. Augustine, FL (sorry, they were there yesterday);
Tallahassee, Fl;
Mobile, AL;
New Orleans, LA;
Houston, TX;
San Antonio, TX;
Pecos, TX;
El Paso, TX;
Nogales, AZ;
Yuma, AZ;
Los Angeles, CA.
.
(There are four stops in Texas, yet they are totally ignoring New Mexico and completely bypassed Miami!)
.
If you live in one of these locations (or know someone who does) and are interested in talking with the pair, go to this link, look for your location and click on the appropriate spot to send a message. The link also lists the date they will be in each place and a little about why they chose it.
.
I've but my two cents in, here as well as by submitting a comment to their blog. Why don't you do something similar, here, there or on both?
.
Chao amig@s,
.
Carloz,
.
P.S.
It's interesting that they use the familiar "tu" form in the project title. I wonder if they'll find that US Spanish speakers are more likely to use the formal "usted" form with strangers.
.
P.P.S.
I wrote them that I wanted to do a similar trip across Spain, only speaking English. Do you think the BBC would take me up on a "Do you speak English" tour of España? If not, do any of you have any contacts at PBS or NPR? ;-)

¡Churros!

I weighed myself today and noticed that I'd lost two kilos since my last visit to the scale. Hmmm, I thought, what better way to celebrate than to go out and buy some crunchy, fattening churros! (Or in Catalan, xurros.) Sometimes I think the churro may be one of the main reasons I moved to Spain.

.

I once heard churros described as Spain's answer to the doughnut. Nothing could be more untrue. From what I have been able to determine, the upstart doughnut was invented in 19th century America. Well, Spain has been around a bit longer than that and since Spanish settlers introduced churros to the new world, I think it's easy to see which fritter came first.

.

The legend here is that centuries ago Spanish shepherds, who did not have ovens because of their nomadic ways, used open fires to fry the batter they made from wheat. Eventually creativity led to a sugar coated fried bread treat they called churros, because the shape resembled the horns of the churro-sheep they herded.

.

Nowadays the typical Spanish churro is a slightly curved, star-shaped cylinder of dough that is fried until crunchy. They are served either with sugar sprinkled on top or covered with thick dark chocolate. I prefer the lightly sugar coated variety but many Spaniards are mad about the chocolate covered ones. It is also popular to dunk plain ones into a cup of hot chocolate so thick that it seems more like a melted chocolate bar than a drink.

.

Churros can be purchased everywhere in Spain, from cafes at breakfast time to expensive restaurants that serve their own "nuevo" versions for dessert after dinner. They're even sold pre-cooked and frozen in supermarkets! There are also variations on the theme: churros rellenos ("stuffed churros" -- filled with chocolate or a cream of some sort), tejeringos (wheels about 10 cm in diameter that are sometimes served on a stick), porras (like churros, but thicker), etc., etc. etc.

.

To me, however, there is nothing like the churros that come from one of the small street vendors, called churrerías, that sell freshly cooked ones. It's so nice to watch a churrero/a (churro-maker) in his/her crisp white apron fry up a batch right before your eyes, weigh out a portion for you, shake the hot little pastries into a cone shaped paper container, sprinkle a little sugar on top and then hand them over for a snack right there on the spot, while walking, while sitting on a bench or to take home.

.

Although they seem in demand at just about any time of day or night, perhaps consumption peaks in the morning, either because the consumer has just gotten up and is ready to face a new day or is just going in after a long night's fiesta. I've savored them in both situations, as well as when a churro urge simply strikes, like it did this afternoon.

.

If you are not in Spain or Latin America and want to try churros, here is a simple recipe:

.

Ingredients

.

1 cup of flour

1 cup of water

1 teaspoon of oil

1 teaspoon of olive oil

a dash of salt

.

Directions

.

Heat water, salt and olive oil to a boil. Add flour. Stir until it forms a batter. Let it cool and then place the batter on a flat surface. Shape the dough into cylinders. Drop them in hot oil and fry until crispy and golden.

.

Serving suggestions:

.

If you want your churros Spanish style, either sprinkle them with sugar, coat them in melted chocolate or serve them plain with a cup of thick hot chocolate to dunk in. To enjoy them the way Chileans do, cover them with powdered sugar. For Mexican style churros, dust them with cinnamon.

.

I hope you get to enjoy some one day.

.

Disfrutadlos amig@s,

.

Carloz

Barceloneta Park (El Parque de la Barceloneta / El Parc de la Barceloneta)

The little sea front Barceloneta Park marks the transition from the old neighborhood of Barceloneta to a new one called Villa Olimpíca. It's a relatively new park located on a site that used to be home to Barcelona's gas company. In fact, a lovely old building that was once part of the complex still sits there, looking somewhat forlorn and abandoned on the park's western side. Towards the park's northeastern end there is a structure dating from 1905: a stone water tower designed by architect Josep Domenech i Estapa. On the eastern side stands a wrought iron circular stage, where musical events are often held.
.
The park is laid out along three large areas: the first one extends from its city side at C/ Doctor Aiguader to its sea side at Paseo Maritimo; the second, begins with a direct access point from within the neighborhood of Barceloneta, near the old gas company building, that leads to large curved slopes of greenery with walkways running along them; the third area consists of an enclosed soccer field with an elevated street-wide ramp that was intended to be a foot bridge to Ciutadella Park. Instead, it just ends in mid-air!

.

But the view from there is wonderful -- the soccer field and the whole of the park to the south; the medical complex to the east; Ciutadella Park to the north, with Mount Tibidabo in the background; and the gleaming glass high-rise that is the new gas company buliding to the west. The top of this ramp is a nice point to watch the sunset behind Mount Tibidabo, as I did earlier this evening.
.
Oddly enough, Barceloneta Park is hardly ever crowded, no matter how packed the beach and the Paseo Maritimo directly in front of it seem to be. Therefore, most of the people who make use of the park are local residents. Aside from enjoying a picnic on the grass or a snooze on a bench, visitors can also have a coffee or drink at the nice little chiringuito with a sea view that is operated by the city's Parks and Gardens Department. If you like a little more activity, like most parks in Barcelona, this one has a children's play-ground, a few outdoor ping-pong tables, a basketball hoop, pitches to play a bowling-ball type game called "petanca" in Spanish and "botxe" in Catalan, as well as a doggy play-ground -- a fenced in area where dogs can run free.
.
Other interesting aspects of the park include its unusual mix of pine and mimosa trees, the abundance of wild parakeets that make the park their home and the statue of Simon Bolivar looking like he's ready to head out to the sea. This last was a gift from the government of Venezuela and was unveiled by Spain's King Juan Carlos at the park's 1996 inauguration.
.
Well, that's a bit about Barceloneta Park, a nice spot to have a little rest away from the crowd.
.
I hope you get to enjoy it someday.
.
Chao amig@s,
.
Carloz

Next, Barceloneta's seaside

At the seaside end of Paseo Juan de Borbon / Passeig Joan de Borbo (or as I fondly refer to it, Paella Row) you will find a seafront plaza named Pl. del Mar. On the right of the plaza, the Paseo turns off into a semi-industrialized port area, the sea and beach are in front and on on the left is a pair of high rise apartment buildings -- which thankfully are few in Barceloneta. The ground floor of these 70s style towers houses a convenience store, two restaurants (Buenas Migas and KAiKU) and the Seapoint Youth Hostel, Barcelona's only hostel on the beach. Both of the restaurants and the cafe of the hostel offer food and drinks out on the plaza.

.

Directly on the beach is Chiringuto del Sol, one of many "chiringuitos" you'll see in Barcelona. Chiringuitos are what Spaniards call the little beach bars/cafes that dot beaches throughout the country. Barcelona's are regulated by the city, even down to their uniform design: small wine colored rectangular bars with slat wood serving areas on one side.

.

These places are popular! They sell coffee, drinks, sandwiches and such. There is always music, often supplied by a live DJ. Beach goers mix with beach watchers, locals chat with one another and visitors try to soak in the atmosphere while they can.

.

Actually the chiringuito that you first see when you reach Pl. del Mar is not the first one on Barcelona's beach. That one is Chiringuito de Barcelona, located a bit to the right of the plaza. It is marks the edge of Barcelona's predominantly gay and lesbian beach, appropriately named Playa San Sebastian.

.

Not much further beyond Chiringuito de Barcelona, Barcelona's beaches end - or, more accurately, they begin there. Therefore, one needs to veer to the left at Pl. del Mar to truly have a walk up Barcelona's coast. Heading that way there are soon two more chiringuitos on the beach side, Chiringuito Goa and Chiringuito Bar Playa 23.

.

Meanwhile, on the inland side Barceloneta's residential streets jut out, often with a restaurant or two on their corners. Cal Pinxo is one of the best seafood and paella establishments around, with prices that reflect the fact. You can sit on their terrace or in one of their sea view dining rooms to enjoy the excellent cooking. Definitely worth it!

.

Just up the walk a bit and on the lower end of the economic scale, but still within the tasty realm is a little place called Restaurante Venta Mancheca. This joint has no dining room, only a kitchen with a terrace. However, the paella and other items on offer are filling and very affordable.

.

Two of the curiouser looking edifices around here are former boat repair centers that now function as an ice cream shop (Heladeria La Lechera) and a surf shop (Wind 220). These two hangar-like structures face the sea side by side and seem to beckon passers-by to have a look inside. I suggest doing so, even if you're not in the mood for a sundae or a wet-suit.

.

Just after the Bar Playa 23 Chiringuito, pedestrians are faced with a choice of continuing along at the beach level or of heading up the elevated sea wall that is parallels the Paseo Maritimo / Passeig Maritm. Most people seem to choose to go up along the palm-tree lined walk overlooking the beach.

.

At this point the sights on the inland side are not as interesting or attractive, but merely a series of public buildings from a few decades ago: a middle school, a community center, a kindergarten and an elementary school. Fortunately, they are behind the palm trees that run up and down the bicycle lane alongside the Paseo.

.

However, the seaside view is always entertaining: people passing along the sidewalk beneath, sunbathers stretched out on the sand, volleyball players, swimmers and, of course, ships, sailboats and such coming and going. Every few meters there is a set of stairs leading down to the lower level, should you get the urge to join those below.

.

After a short while there is a jetty on the beach with concrete seats in front of it. These seats are in the form of chaise lounge chairs and are great for relaxing on and gazing around. There is also a children's play site and a little public work-out area for doing leg-lifts, chin-ups, etc.

.

On the inland side there is an oasis of green, the Parque de la Barceloneta, followed by the modern Hospital del Mar and then the beginning of the Puerto Olimpíco / Port Olimpíc area.

.

However, I'll stop here for a rest and write more details about the park later.

.

Chao amig@s,

.

Carloz

Barceloneta - a little history and a side-street "show"

Well, I just got in from an evening stroll around the neighborhood. For some reason today's walk sent me back to the first time I visited Barcelona several years ago. It was summertime, too, and that was when I first started to hatch the idea of living abroad.
.

As a matter of fact, I remember thinking dreamily at the time that one day I would like to live in the small seaside neighborhood known as Barceloneta -- "little Barcelona." Sometimes I still have to pinch myself to make sure I am not dreaming and that I actually do live here!

.
Barceloneta is a colorful little barrio between the harbor and the sea. I have read that its origins date back to 1715, as that was when the plan for it was first completed. It was intended to rehouse people who had been displaced by the building of Fort Ciutadella.

.

Today Ciutadella is a lovely park nearby. However before that it was a Spanish fort which tried to keep the Catalans in check. The people eventually got their revenge by tearing it down and replacing it with the park. But that's another story, so let me get back to Barceloneta.

.

Barceloneta is still the little triangular grid that was originally designed by a military mind, a French army engineer with the rather prophetic sounding name of Prosper Verboom. Its long, narrow streets were initially home to working class people who made their living from the sea -- sailors, fishers, fishmongers, boat builders, etc. Even though it is no longer such a neighborhood, it still has a nice working class maritime feel.

.

For all it's precise layout, it is a colorful chaos of sights and sounds. It's full of cafes, bakeries and bars, with tourists wandering through, locals talking in the streets and clothes hanging on lines in front of the windows of the centuries old multi-story modules that rise up everywhere.

.

The collection of restaurants on Barceloneta's beach and harbor sides are renowned for their seafood and paella. Paseo Juan de Borbon (Passeig Joan de Borbo in Catalan) in particular is so packed with such places that I have nick-named it "Paella Row." I often stroll down to Paella Row to get to the sea. It's always a sight to behold, with restaurants and sidewalk cafes crammed with customers and people sauntering to and from the Mediterranean. Sometimes, however, I choose to walk down C/ del Mar (Sea Street) instead.

.

Located one street inland from Paella Row, and running parallel to it, C/ del Mar is like most of the little lanes in Barceloneta, except for a couple of things. One is Pl. de la Barceloneta, a public square located about halfway down the street.

.

This small plaza is framed by the baroque church of Saint Michael of the Port (San Miguel del Puerto / Sant Miquel del Port) on one side and on the other by a snapshot view of the Port Vell marina, thanks to a break in the buildings along Paella Row.

.

The church was built between 1753 and 1755. It had no no bell tower and only a small cupola until 1853 when one was added. Until that time there was a rule that buildings in Barceloneta had to be low enough for cannon balls fired from Fort Ciutadella to fly over!

.

It is for this same reason that the lower floors of buildings in the barrio date from the late 1700s while the upper ones are usually from the late 1800s. If you look closely at the buildings, you can see differences in design between the facades of the lower and upper floors.

.

In the center of the plaza stands an ornate antique lamppost / drinking fountain, with a Barcelona coat of arms on it. The Can Ganassa tapas bar, on the square's east side, is popular with the locals.

.

Whether you sit at one of the bar's terrace tables or simply take a seat at one of the park benches scattered around the square, Pl. de la Barceloneta is a nice spot to rest and enjoy the atmosphere, while trying to imagine how on earth they managed to hold bullfights in the plaza until about 75 years ago. ¡¿?!

.

The other unique feature of C/ del Mar is the fact the kitchens of many of Paella Row's restaurants open onto it -- and I mean literally open! For this reason, rich aromas often fill the tiny street and at peak dining times the sights are rather unique. Instead of only checking out the polished decor of restaurant dining rooms, with a stroll down this little street you can turn the tables and catch a glimpse of the utilitarian spectacle out back. To do so it is best start from the beginning of C/ del Mar, at C/ de Ginebra, and continue on to it's end, at C/ Drassana.

.

Take this walk at lunch or dinner time and have a look into the open kitchen doors to see silver pans, black pots, large knives, giant ladles and such being wielded by staff dressed in black or white or pin-stripes or checks. Prep cooks chatter, chefs laugh, waiters yell, dishwashers dash out for a cigarette and kitchen managers run in with an ingredient hurriedly purchased around the corner. At times food sounds surround you as you step along -- chopping, frying, stirring, grilling, slicing, bubbling, stacking, steaming, pouring... A feast for the senses and a great run up to a delicious meal on the other side!

.

Once you get to C/ Sant Carles, look to your left for a lovely little restaurant named Can Sole. While it certainly is not the best restaurant in the neighborhood, and is somewhat over-priced, it has been serving food in this rustic building for over a century.

.

Stop and look up at the frieze of the sun on the corner and walk around the three sides of the building to view the colorful farming, fishing and hunting images painted on its exterior tiles. Speaking of tiles, just down the street at number 59 C/ del Mar, a beautiful tiled icon of the Virgen del Carmen sits above the ornate doorway to a private residence.

.

After crossing busy C/ Almiral Cervera, kitchens won't be as frequent on the next block, before a final burst of culinary activity on the last two. However, until then you can take time to notice that here, as in much of Barceloneta, residents of ground floor apartments often have their living room doors open to the street. Neighbors may even pull chairs out onto the sidewalk to visit one another or to watch television sets centered near their doorways. As you pass, simply smile and say, "Hola!"

.

You should also pause to look up at the nicely preserved building at number 97, which is the home of the International Dockworkers Council. Just across the street is the back entrance to the only hotel in the neighborhood, Hotel 54 Barceloneta. This recently opened establishment is housed in what was previously the Fisherman's Assocation building.

.

As it nears its end, C/ del Mar is denied a direct approach to the sea by the rather ugly facade of an overpriced corporate convenience store. But perhaps that's a blessing in disguise, as the lack of access contributes to the street's being such a nice respite from the crowds of Paella Row. However, just a walk around the corner and you are back with the tourist throng on the great wide way after a refreshing and hunger-inducing walk.

.

If you haven't yet, I hope you get to experience it someday!

.

Chao amig@s,

.

Carloz

.

P.S. Wondering where to eat after such a walk? See these previous posts for a couple of suggestions:

.

La Mar Salada (The Savory Sea)

.

Buenas Migas (Good Crumbs)

.

P.P.S For an example of one of the many seasonal activites that occur in Pl. de la Barceloneta, see the following post: The Night of Fire - La Noche del Fuego - La Nit de la Foc. Or, of you want to read other posts which mention my neighborhood, just click on the word Barceloneta in the list of lables below.

Chinese food in Barcelona? ¡Claro que sí!

Barcelona is blessed when it comes to food! Not only are there great Catalan, Spanish and Mediterranean dishes to be had at restaurants throughout the city, but international gastronomy abounds, too. Asian food is particularly popular here and that, of course, includes Chinese cuisine.
.
About once a week or so I get a craving for good Chinese food. When this happens, I usually head for a place that has tasty dishes, friendly staff, an excellent view and great prices -- the Pato Pekin Puerto Olímpico.
.
Located in the Port Olímpic area just beyond Barceloneta Beaches, the restaurant actually overlooks the marina. You can either enjoy your meal in the large dining room with a glass wall facing the sea or outside on the balcony, pictured in the photo to the right, which is one floor up from the paseo below. (By the way, "Port Olímpic" is the name as it is written in Catalan and, therefore, how it appears on local maps, signs, etc. "Puerto Olímpico" is Spanish and how many people refer to the area as well as the way the restaurant spells it.)
.
On weekdays Pato Pekin has two set lunch menus to choose from, one priced 7.95, the other 10.95. For dinner and weekends, the special menus are priced 10.65 and 12.79 respectively. Each menu offers a choice of first plate, main plate, side dish, drink and dessert or coffee. You can also order a la carte from their dim sum menu or from their regular menu, which is quite varied.
.
The set menus are too lengthy to list in their entireties, so just to give you an idea, here are a few samples of what's on offer from the dinner/weekend menus:
.
For 12.79 you can choose items such as a house salad, seafood soup or sauteed mixed vegetables for a first plate; followed by a main dish of cuttlefish and green pepper, king prawn with vegetables or sweet and sour duck; along with a side dish of white rice, rice "especial" or Chinese bread.

.

On the 10.65 menu, among the choices for starters are egg rolls, fried wan-tons and chicken noodle soup. A few examples of main plates are lemon chicken, beef with vegetables and steamed whole fish. Some of the side dishes available include white rice, rice "tres delicias" and noodles with vegetables.
.
All menus include a choice of wine, beer, soft drink or bottled water. After your meal you can choose coffee, tea or one of the following desserts: a scoop of ice cream, flan, mango, lemon mousse, fruit salad, fried apple with honey, fried banana with honey or a "comtessa." Comtessa is simple but sinfully delicious -- a deep crystal dish filled with whipped cream and chocolate sauce.
.
Those are only a few examples from the weekend and night-time set menus. The weekday lunch menus are not only cheaper, at 7.95 and 10.95, but have even wider selections!
.
Being a creature of habit, I most often go to the Pato Pekin on sunny Sunday's to enjoy the view from the balcony, a leisurely newspaper read and, of course, a delicious meal. I typically order fried wan-tons to begin with, which are always served fresh, warm and crisp. For the main plate and side dish I usually go with beef in oyster sauce and white rice. I ask for this to be prepared "un poco picante" (a little spicy) and it is always perfect -- a generous serving of beef sauteed with mushrooms, onion, garlic, green pepper and bamboo shoots. All of this, plus drink and dessert, costs only 10.95!

.

Good food in a stylish, relaxing setting -- there's nothing much better.

.

Pato Pekin Puerto Olímpico

C/ de la Marina, 16-18 (take the escalator or stair up one floor)

08005 Barcelona

Tel: 93 225 41 41

Scarlett Johansson, Taxi Tours & Barcelona Taxis in general

I was just on my way home from teaching a class when I came upon police on motorcycles stopping traffic to let a caravan of vehicles through the intersection of Colon and Laietana. Along came a van followed by a truck pulling a Barcelona City Taxi Cab. I didn't notice if Woody Allen was in the truck with the camera but Scarlett Johansson was definitely the platinum blond perched in the back seat of the taxi.

She looked as though she was enjoying her ride, as I believe most taxi passengers in Barcelona do. However, her driver probably didn't speak much English. Taxi drivers here rarely speak the international language of commerce and tourism. In all the years I have lived (and before that, travelled) here, I have only come across one Taxi driver who spoke English.

That's why I was surprised to come across a service company called Barcelona Taxi Tour, offering not only reserved airport pick-up and drop-off but a variety of tours provided by drivers with supposedly "perfect English." Tours include a Gaudí tour, a Moderism Architecture tour, an Olympic tour and a general tour called, "The Global View." According to the web site prices are agreed upon when you make your reservation but it's a safe bet that they don't fall into a back packer's budget. That's OK though, because the city's buses and metro are great - plus Barcelona is a really great place for walking!

If you are a visitor or new to the city and do need to catch a regular taxi, though, here is a little info for you. Barcelona's taxis are regulated by the local government. Aside from controlling rates, another thing is the look of the cab. For that reason Barcelona's taxis are always black and yellow vehicles. Usually they are compact cars but a few are minivans. They are almost always comfortable and air-conditioned.

In front of the airport, train station and bus stations there are special taxi lanes for collecting passengers. On the street, you can flag one down when the green light on top of the car is on. Tip the driver by rounding up slightly - local people do not usually tip more than a few cents or 1 or 2 euros. Although local taxi drivers are usually honest, to be extra safe ask for a receipt as the driver's information is printed on thses. Click here for current information about taxi fares.

Taxis are available anytime, although it can sometimes be a bit of a challenge to find a free one on weekends around 3, 4, 5 and 6 in the morning because of all the people pouring out of bars and discos. That may be why some people don't go home until 7, 8, 9, 10, 11...or later. ;-)

Spain's Sunday News: Dalí, Photos, DNA, Music and Money, Money, Money, Money

Dalí Photos - El Pais announced today that Salvador Dalís former photographer and personal assistant, Robert Descharnes, is exhibiting 147 of the thousands of photos he took of Dalí and his muse, Gala, at the Municipal Museum of Cadaqués until January of next year. The photos focus on the Catalan artist's relationship with the coastal town and the nearby village of Port Lligat.

.

The 83 year old French photographer said he is computerizing and cataloguing the more than 60,000 photographs that he took of Dalí and Gala over 40 years of friendship with the couple.

.

Note: this photo (Dalí with ocelot) was not taken by Robert Descharnes, but by Roger Higgins.

.

Dalí DNA - Descharnes revealed to El Pais that he has provided samples of Dalí's DNA to American scientific experts for the purpose of obtaining the genetic map of the surrealist icon. He apparently obtained the samples from the tubes inserted into Dalí's nose when the painter was last hospitalized. Descharnes claims that due to Dalí's genius a study of his DNA would contribute much to science.

.

Test for buskers - Musicians now have to pass a test in order to perform in the Metro, Barcelona's subway system. El Pais reported that some 80 musicians auditioned yesterday before officials of the Street Musicians Association of Barcelona (Amuc BCN) and the Barcelona Transportation Metropolitan agency for permission to perform in Metro stations and trains. "The objective is to guarantee minimum standards," stated Hugo Guerrero, president of Amuc.

.

Until now, permission to perform was given to anyone who registered with Amuc. Esther Ayala of TMB explained that the audition was organized because the previous system did not work well, which resulted in people who did not really know how to play or sing performing.

.
Reportedly many of those who tried out yesterday were Latin-American guitarists and Eastern-European accordionists and the most were successful in their bids. "Between 85% and 90% were approved," according to Guerrero.

.

Have you seen any 500 euro bills lying around? Apparently there are over 113 million of them in Spain, worth over 56,529 million euros, but they aren't seen very often. Spain's Tax Office has been has been investigating the situation for years, but to little avail. In fact, this past May a record number of 500 euro bills in circulation was reached, according to the Bank of Spain -- 64,3% of the total currency in Spain!

.

Spaniards humorously refer to the bank notes as "Bin Ladens" because hardly anyone claims to have seen one. El Pais noted that over the past year the number of 200 euro notes in circulation has increased, too -- from 19 to 21 million.

.

What do you think is going on?!

Buenas Migas = Good Crumbs

Yesterday I went to my neighborhood beach with a friend. I made my own sandwich to eat there but my friend picked up a pasta salad and a focaccia from one of my favorite seaside eating establishments, Buenas Migas Focacceria.

.
According to the folks at Buenas Migas, the pizza-like focaccia is Genoan in origin and derives its name from the Latin word 'focus', meaning hearth or fire place. It differs from everyday bread in that the dough is stretched for several hours and because it is topped with olive oil and salt. Historically in the city of Genoa, focaccia was cooked in communal ovens.

.

They say that for centuries focaccia has been enjoyed by Genoan fishermen, along with a glass of white wine, before setting off onto the sea. Its simple Mediterranean recipe has made focaccia a popular dish and nowadays it is eaten all over the world with a wide range of toppings -- and I doubt there is any place that offers more delicious, economical and generous servings than Barcelona's Buenas Migas.

.

Yesterday my friend got an approximately 20cm x 15cm rectangle of Focaccia Margharita (tomato, cheese, olives and oregano) along with about 200 grams of Pasta con il tonno (bow tie pasta tossed with tuna, baked vegetables, mozzarella and, of course, olive oil) as a side dish. I haven't tried the Focaccia Margharita myself, but I have had the Pasta con il tonno and found it a superb fusion of flavors -- and quite filling, too.

.

How much did this cost her? Only 3.70 for the focaccia and 3.90 for the pasta. She also bought a tiny bottle of water for 1.20. However, since she was getting "take away" she just as easily could have gone a few steps around the corner to the convenience store to get a bottle two or three times as big for half the price.

.

As I said, I didn't buy food from there personally yesterday, but I have in the past and have never been disappointed. My personal favorite of the carious focaccias Buneas Migas offers is the Campagnola, a mix of tomato, cheese and spicy sausage. The runner-up for my affections is the Salsiccia e cipolle, a simple combination of butifarra (Catalan sausage) and onion.

.

What else do they have on offer? An assortment of focaccias, made with regular or whole flour, with a wide variety of toppings: olives, goat cheese, bacon, gorgonzala, pepperoni, red pepper, onion, eggplant, and/or tomato as well as the special "Focaccia of the season" which varies accordingly. Focaccias are priced from 3.50 to 4.70.

.

Aside from the Pasta con il tonno that my friend thoroughly enjoyed, there are Pasta al pesto and Pasta con la mozzarella. All pasta dishes cost 3.90.

.

Want to eat light? In the salad department, offerings include green salad, Greek salad, tuna salad, mozzarella salad, salmon salad and a raisin, cheese and nut salad. Salad prices range from 2.90 to 5.95 and come in small or large.

.

Want to eat heavy? Try a Torte de Verdura (Vegetable Pie) for 4.20. All the torte's include ricotta and Parmesan cheese along with either spinach; seasonal vegetables; potato and leeks; or salmon and broccoli.

.

Then there are the focaccettes and paninis. Focaccettes (a flat bread made with wheat flour mixed with corn meal) cost between 3.95 and 4.90 and come covered with combinations of topping such as brie and leeks; brie, onion and zucchini; zucchini, onion and Serrano ham; mozarrella, onion and zucchini; Serrano ham and Cresenza cheese; and salmon and cream cheese. Panini sandwiches are priced from 2.40 to 2.50 and include selections such as Manchego cheese and Serrano ham on olive bread, mozzarella and ham on walnut bread, mozzarella and tomato on focaccia and mixed vegetables on whole wheat focaccia bread.

.

Drinks? Water (in really small bottles for 1.20 or 1.50), soft drinks (1.95), wine by the glass (2.10), wine in bottles (from 6.40 to 8.30), beer (2.10 to 2.20), a variety of bottled fruit drinks (1.95 - 2.20) natural orange juice (2.40) and a variety of coffees, teas and chocolates (from 1.20 to 2.30).

.

Of course they've got deserts, too: cakes, pies, crumbles etc. from 2.90 to 3.30.

.
Although I almost always take the food I buy there to the beach to eat, sitting inside can be pleasant, too. The location in Barceloneta has a rustic design and is on a corner facing the sea, so the view is nice. As a matter of fact, the walls literally roll up during opening hours, so it is almost like sitting outside. Diners may also sit at one of the tables on the terrace, but at a 10% surcharge for doing so. Why not just get take away and sit directly on the beach?

.

Buenas Migas

.

Pl. del Mar (also known as C/ de la Drassana), 1
Tel:93 221 63 16
Metro Yellow Line, Barceloneta Station then walk to the sea or take buses 17, 39, or 64 to the sea. Click here for a map.

.

Other locations:

.

Passeig de Gràcia, 120
Tel: 93 238 55 49
Metro Green Line or Blue Line, Diagonal station

.

Pl. Bonsuccés, 6
Tel: 93 318 37 08
Metro Green Line or Red line, Pl. Catalunya station

.

Baixada de Santa Clara, 2
Tel: 93 319 13 80
Metro Yellow Line, Jaume I station

.

Maremagnum
Pl. de l'Odissea
Tel: 93 225 81 15
Metro L3 Drassanes

.

Illa Diagonal Shopping Center
Av. Diagonal 557
Tel: 93 444 29 89
Metro Green Line, Maria Cristina station

Spain's Saturday News: The bulls, nudes and politicians are running!

The running of the toros begins in Pamplona. The bulls were after the crowds in the streets of Pamplona today for the first 'encierro' (bull run) of the Festival of San Fermin. Of course injuries are inevitable as throngs make a mad dash ahead of the two ton animals charging down the narrow streets, but only seven people have been treated for minor injuries so far.
.
Last year, more than 200,000 people traveled to Pamplona, according to the city government, and even more are expected this year because the start of the festival fell on the beginning of a weekend. The major day of the festival is always July 7th, when thousands march and dance through the streets of Pamplona with an effigy of Saint Fermin.
.
Every day of the festival has a carnival atmosphere, with rides, dancing and lots of wine and sangria. At night the partying intensifies, with street entertainers and large puppet-like 'giants' roaming around. Then in the morning, the encierro begins again.

.

Click here for photos of the fiesta.
.
The running of the desnudos, too. This past Thursday Peta (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) organized a nude march through Pamplona. Animal rights activists wearing red scarves, fake horns and not much else chanted slogans such as, ''Bulls yes! Bullfighters no!'' and ''Torture isn't culture.''
.
A statement on PETA’s website reads: “The Running of the Bulls and bullfighting are often justified as culture and tradition, but some traditions – like child labour and slavery – are bad and need to end.”

.

Click here for photos of the event.
.
Then there's the running of the politicos. El Pais reported today that according to a survey conducted by CIS (Centro de Investigaciones Sociológicas), 45% of those surveyed who sRunning of theaw or listened to the debate thought Prime Minister Zapatero won, while only 16.5% thought opposition leader Rajoy did. In addition, 60% responded that Zapatero seemed knowledgeable about the problems facing the country, 70% that he demonstrated moderation during the debate and 63% that he handled criticism well. Rajoy scored 56%, 34% and 34% respectively on the same questions.
.
Click here to see more of the results.

Delicious budget dining in Barcelona: La Mar Salada (The Savory Sea)

A good friend treated me to a delicious lunch yesterday. This particular friend and I have a habit of seeking out good places to eat economically, and the place we visited is certainly one of the best we have found.

.

While we were enjoying our meal I was reminded of an article from the New York Times that someone recently emailed me. It was written by a young man who had visited Barcelona and complained that it was not a good place to visit for a person on a limited budget. My response to the person who emailed me the article was, "That guy just didn't know where to go!"

.

As someone who lives here I can say that Barcelona offers opportunities for all sorts of budgets, from luxury to mid-range to back-packer. For example, yesterday's spot is a place I believe most visitors in the backpacker range could afford and diners on any budget would enjoy.

.

La Mar Salada (The Savory Sea) is a lovely little restaurant in my neighborhood, Barceloneta. It is situated on Passeig Joan de Borbo (which I have nicknamed "Paella Row" because it is dotted with restaurants offering varieties of this delicious rice dish) and has a bright, comfortable dining room as well as a clean canopy covered terrace.

.

We sat on the terrace and ordered from the "menu of the day" ("menu del día"), which is the selection of specially priced set menus that most Spanish restaurants have each day. In Spanish these offerings are often simply referred to as "el menu." (What we English speakers refer to as "the menu" is "la carta" in Spanish.) Spanish "menus" typically include bread, a starter dish, a main dish, a desert, a drink (bottled water, wine, beer or a soft drink) and a choice of desert or coffee.

.

Yesterday's "menu" offerings were varied. Catalan Salad (which included the local 'butifara' sausage), Steamed Mussels, Swiss Chard Au Gratin and Lasagna were some of the choices for the first dish. Options for the second included Paella Mixta, Baked Gilthead Bream, Fillet Steak and Roast Sirloin.

.

I opted for the Swiss Chard Au Gratin to start with while my friend selected the Mussels. Not too long after placing the order, two large steaming dishes were delivered to our table. My companion's plate was piled high with beautiful black shells offering up the almost golden meat inside. My dish was about as big as a loaf of bread and as warm and tasty as a freshly made dish should be. It had a light brown crust covering layers of greens baked in a tangy cheese sauce.

.

Neither of us could pass up the Paella Mixta, so soon after we finished our "starters" we were served two hot platters full of saffron colored rice doused with shrimp, mussels, clams, scallops, sausage, chicken, sweet pepper, onion, garlic... It had just the right mix of a smoky saffron taste balanced by the spicy blend of seafood and meat flavors. Talk about good!!

.

It was hard to believe, but, we still had dessert to come! We bypassed the fresh melon and the Neapolitan ice cream for items made in the kitchen. My friend chose a cake that had a cheese base and a strawberry sauce topping. (I took a bite and it was very tasty.) I had the homemade yogurt, which was exquisite: a goblet shaped dish filled with a cloud of rich, creamy, white yogurt that was perfectly sweet. A scrumptious end to a delicious meal.

.

The price for this superbly satisfying meal? Only 9 euros a piece! And that's the price of the "menu del día" at La Mar Salada each weekday at lunch time. So, there you have it -- good value and excellent quality in a great location.

.

La Mar Salada
Passeig Joan de Borbo, 58-59
93 221 21 27
Lunch: 1pm - 4:30pm; Dinner: 8pm - 11pm; Closed Tuesdays