Showing posts with label Bilbao. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bilbao. Show all posts

Sunday, January 20, 2008

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao


If you haven't been yet, go! If you have, then you know why I say this.
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The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao provided me with one of the best museum experiences I have ever had -- and art museums are not my favorite types of museums. I usually prefer history museums. However, this art museum is fascinating on so many different levels, that I think it would appeal to almost everyone. Words like light, joy, curiosity, wonder, fun, dynamic, fresh, imagination, inspiration, relaxation, meditation and activity come to mind when remembering the full day I spent there. Indeed, I arrived just after the 10am opening and stayed until it closed at 8pm.
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Of course, the museum building and the site itself are a true wonder of a work of art. It is well worth taking the time to use the audio guide provided for a tour of the grounds and interior of the "titanium icon," which both echos and compliments the Guggenheim Museum building in New York City. Nestled between Bilbao's Nervión River and its Moyúa neighborhood, the limestone, glass and titanium structure billows out like a series of giant sails caught in the wind.
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On the riverside is a curving walkway that winds around fountains and works of art, such as Louise Bourgeois' Maman (French for "Mama"), a giant spider cast from of bronze, stainless steel and marble. Just past Maman, the building stretches beneath the modern Puente de la Salve bridge that spans the river. Then the museum shoots up a limestone tower-like facade on the opposite side of the bridge. To commemorate the 10th anniversary of the Bilbao Guggenheim, a Red Arch designed by Daniel Buren was added to the bridge in 2007. It is well worth the walk up the stairs set into the tower to see the views of the museum, the bridge, the river and the city.
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On the side of the building facing Iparraguire Street, visitors are welcomed to the museum's entry plaza by another artistic beast: Jeff Koons' 40 meter tall Puppy, a giant flower sculpture constructed of a steel frame covered by 6500 kilos of earth and 40,000 plants. (On a stroll around the museum area a few nights later, I saw a frisky little cat playing with some of the flowers at Puppy's base.)
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Inside the building there is a bright reception area with friendly people prepared to greet visitors in English, Spanish or Basque -- and probably a few other languages, as well. After paying the 10.50 euro entrance fee, a hand-held audio guide device is provided, with a choice of several languages.
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The next room is the atrium, which is warm and welcoming, despite it's size. Measuring 650 square meters, it rises 50 meters to the skylight above, and has a glass curtain looking out towards the river on one side. On the other sides it is encased in limestone and includes a couple of glass elevators and an open air stairwell. (For those who don't like heights, there are also an enclosed stairwell and an enclosed elevator.)
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On the day I visited, we were greeted by Juan Pérez Agirregoikoa's large cream colored fabric panel dangling down from the floor above, with the following question painted on it in red and black letters: "¿Habeis cedido a vuestro deseo?" ("Have you all given into your desires?)
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Just outside the atrium is a large terrace, covered by a limestone canopy supported by a central column. The terrace looks over a shallow pond installed next to the river. The terrace holds Jeff Koons' Tulips, while the pond sports two water-art-works: Fire Fountain by Yves Klein and Fog Sculpture # 08025 by Fujiko Nakaya.
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Back inside the building, the exhibition spaces extend out and up from the atrium. There were two exhibitions when I was there:
  • Art in the USA: 300 Years of Innovation, which surveyed the history of the country's visual arts through approximately 200 works of art filling the galleries on the first and second floors floors of the building, and

  • Chacun à son goût (Each to their own taste), a selection of works by 12 artists who were Basque by either origin or residency. These were displayed in the exhibition spaces on the third floor.
I enjoyed both exhibitions -- almost as much as the building itself! Art in the USA will run until April 27, 2008; Chacun à son goût until February 3, 2008.
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Chao amig@s,
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P.S. The Guggenheim Bilbao web site offers a great virtual tour.

Tuesday, January 1, 2008

New Year's Day in Getxo


I haven't got much time, but I wanted to post something on the first day of 2008. So, I'll write a little about the place where I spent this cool, sunny day.
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Getxo is a beach town within the greater metropolitan area of Bilbao. It is located at the mouth of the Nervion river, just inland from the Bay of Biscay. It offers great views of the bay, especially towards the north.
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One such area is La Galea, which is where this post's photo was taken. This cliff top spot has a little park next to the abandoned fort and lighthouse that give the place its name. Aside from a sign reading "La Fortaleza La Galea" (Galea Fort), there was no other information posted about the fort, but it seemed to me to be at least a couple of hundred years old. It's a great spot for picnicking -- and I say that from experience.
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Other sites I enjoyed in Getxo included several stunning 19th century mansions, some lovely parks, a series of relaxing water-side walkways, a hill-side elevator that provides a nice view of the river and bay, and the 1893 "transporter bridge". This contraption is also known as a "ferry bridge," because it is sort of a combination of the two, that carries cars across the river in a gondola. What a great ride!
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Hasta luego amig@s,
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Carloz

Monday, December 31, 2007

Happy New Year's Eve from Bilbao! / ¡Felice noche vieja desde Bilbao! / Urte berri on nork Bilbo!


Greetings from Bilbao! What an incredible looking city: mountains, valleys and riverbanks embedded with exciting architecture -- old and new; traditional and vanguard. I'll write more about that next year.
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I had barely arrived here when I learned about another Spanish holiday tradition: the Basque Country's Olentzero! Olentzero is a giant who brings presents to children on the night of Dec. 24. Apparently the legend varies, but according to the one I heard, Olentzero, who was abandoned in the forest as a newborn child, was found and raised by a fairy. When he grew up, he became a charcoal burner. In his free time he liked to carve wooden toys and dolls. Periodically he filled his charcoal bag with his carvings and gave them out to children in a nearby village.
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On one of his visits to the village he found a house burning and heard children inside calling for help. He ran into the house, found the children upstairs and helped them escape through the windows. However, before he could leave the burning house collapsed around him. The children and other villagers saw a flash of light pull Olentzero out of the flames and into the the sky. It was the fairy who had raised him. She not only rescued him, but gave him everlasting life as the Basque Country's Christmas toymaker.
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I've been told that the Basques observe traditions based on Father Christmas. Olentzero and the Three Kings, although different families may emphasize one. So, here's to the Olentzero, the Caga Tío, the Caganer, the Tifa, the Three kings, Father Christmas, and the 12 Grapes at Midnight that help to make this time of year so colorful!
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Cheers amig@s,
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Carloz
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P.S. The photo is of Bilbao City Hall.