Yo Quiero = I Do: A Look at Marriage in Spain Today

Marriage in Spain is a pretty popular state. Indeed, over half of all Spanish adults are married. However, marriage rates have been falling since the financial crisis began in 2008. The year before saw the country's marriages dip below 200,000 for the first time in ages -- to 199,660 marriages to be exact -- and the rate has been falling ever since. The most recent statistics available are from 2011, during which 158,220 Spaniards married.

Wedding Costs

Weddings in Spain have traditionally been huge affairs, with massive parties held after the ceremony to allow all the friends and family of the happy couple to celebrate their big day. In this time of recession even wedding budgets are facing cutbacks though, and last year the average amount spent on the whole wedding fell by 8.3% to €13,190. There is a lot of variation between the most and least expensive weddings, with Madrid weddings costing most, and those in the Canary Islands being among the least costly. The areas where most savings are being made tend to be honeymoons and receptions, with many couples choosing not to take an expensive holiday after their wedding. Today, with recession hitting Spain hard and unemployment rates soaring to over 27%, it’s unsurprising that wedding budgets are feeling the pinch. Another possible result of the financial hardship in Spain at the moment is that the average age for women to marry for the first time has risen from around 25 years in 1991 to nearly 30 in 2008.

Wedding Tourism

Spain is also a popular destination for overseas weddings, its beautiful scenery and historic cities attracting many couples from all over Europe and the rest of the world. Many people come to Spain to marry for the sake of the traditions and customs as much as the location and weather. There are numerous overseas wedding companies who can arrange weddings tailor-made to a couple’s needs, as well as guiding them through the red tape and legal documentation. The requirements vary depending on whether a Catholic or civil ceremony is held; for a civil ceremony the requirements can be complex, and two years residency is needed. Most overseas couples opt for a Catholic wedding, or have a civil wedding in their home country and receive a blessing in Spain. Marrying abroad is often less expensive than marrying at home and couples can combine the costs of honeymoon and wedding. Special wedding insurances are available to protect the couple from disaster and are probably necessary in addition to travel insurance, which is unlikely to cover costs such as wedding dress replacement.

Same Sex Marriage
 

Spain legalised same-sex marriage in 2005, the third country in the world to do-so. The first same-sex couple to marry in Spain, Emilio Menendez and Carlos Baturin German, tied the knot just outside Madrid on July 11^th 2005. In the first year of legality approximately 4500 couples married. There was some conflict at the time of legalisation, many Roman Catholics particularly disapproved of non-heterosexual unions, and the Pope called them ‘unnatural, immoral and harmful’; however the law was supported by around two thirds of the population, despite 80% of Spaniards identifying themselves as Catholic. Since 2005 there have been some legal challenges to the legalisation of same-sex marriage, notably in 2007 when the Spanish Family Forum attempted to formally define marriage as the union of a man and a woman; the motion was rejected by the Spanish Congress. Today gay couples come from all over the world to marry in Spain.

Wedding traditions

Spanish wedding traditions include the groom being escorted by his mother up the aisle, where he waits for his bride, who will be led by her father. After the vows the groom traditionally gives his bride thirteen coins in a purse; to represent a dowry and symbolise his intention to provide for her. The bride gives her unmarried female guests small pins in the shape of flowers; these are worn upside down and if they become dislodged and fall out during the reception it is said that the wearer will soon be married.

Divorce laws

Divorce was only legalised in Spain in 1981, over a century after the UK. Since then divorce laws have been reformed to rid them of the notion of a ‘guilty party’ in the marriage. Divorce rates have grown since legalisation; in 2002 around 15% of Spanish marriages ended in divorce, higher than Italy but much lower than the UK, where the figure was 42.6%. Divorce rates seem to be stabilising now, possibly due to the recession making divorce too expensive for some couples. Rates of marriage have fallen sharply over the same period; halving between 1970 and 2011. This trend is mirrored throughout Europe, with similar falls in the UK. Many more Spanish couples now are choosing to live together, rather than marry, which is borne out by the numbers of babies born out of wedlock, which have soared from under 2% in 1970 to around a third of live-births in 2011. The stigma historically attached to babies born to unmarried mothers has lessened materially.

So, who knows -- once the economy straightens out, there may be quite a boom in marriage ceremonies, as couples who put off 'making it legal' for financial reasons decide to formally tie the knot.

By Melissa Hathaway (mostly) and Carloz (very little)

Barcelona Photos: Saint George's Day / Dia de San Jorge / Diada de Sant Jordi

Here are some photos I took today.

Stalls on Las Ramblas:

A happy young couple at the port, with an unusual blue rose:

Stalls in La Barceloneta:

Read about the holiday in the following post: Saint George - dragon + roses + books = Saint George's Day!

Spain's Intangible Cultural Heritage

UNESCO has been keeping track of the world's tangible, or physical, patrimony through its World Heritage Site list since 1972. Then in 2003 the Convention for the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage was signed, which authorized UNESCO to identify non-physical cultural expressions, too. This was to include such things as music, drama, arts, crafts and more. On this 10th anniversary of the convention, the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity has a total of 257 'cultural practices and expressions' on it, 13 of which are in Spain. These join the 44 physical places on the World Heritage Site list as globally recognized masterpieces of humanity.

Below are Spain's treasured thirteen:

Cant de la Sibil · la - Majorca, The Balearic Islands

The Song of the Sibyl is a musical liturgical drama with roots in Gregorian chants that was widespread in Europe in the Middle Ages. The Apocalyptic piece was banned by the 16th century Council of Trent, but continued to be performed in Majorca. It is performed during Christmas midnight masses in Catholic churches throughout the island.

• Mallorca Tourism
• www.lluc.net

Castellars - Catalonia 

These human towers, which range from six to ten 'stories' tall, from the pinya at the bottom to the l'anxeneta at the top, can be seen at events all over the region of Catalonia. Each is a collective effort of solidarity, often 'built' as part of a passionate competition among castellar groups. 

• Sixty groups operate throughout the region all year long, but most frequently from April to November. 
• The Casteller competitions held during the Festa Major de Sant Felix in Vilafranca del Penedès every August 30 and at the festival of Santa Ursula in Valls, observed on the Sunday following October 21, are the events with the deepest roots.
• www.castellersdevilafranca.cat
• www.castellersdebarcelona.cat
• Coordinadora de Colles Castelleres de Catalunya 

Center for Traditional Culture – a Pedagogic Project of The School Museum of Pusol - Elche, Valencia

Stared at the one-teacher rural public school of Pusol in 1968, the project has successfully integrated heritage into formal education by using teachers and external collaborators to guide children to explore, in a play atmosphere, Elche's rich heritage. The children do fieldwork data collection, museography, and they teach one another and visitors not only about heritage, but about studying and exploring heritage. The project has trained almost 500 schoolchildren and has resulted in a school museum with more than 61,000 inventory entries and 770 oral files, preserving everyday life heritage and promoting the cultural mapping of local heritage resources. Between 1968 and the mid 1980s, the project remained within the boundaries of the rural district of Pusol, where the school was based, but as knowledge of the project’s values and achievements spread, the project’s operational scope grew larger, first involving the remaining rural districts of Elche’s countryside (mid 1980s) and later the city of Elche (1990s).

• www.museopusol.com

Cultural Association of the Lime Kilns of Morón - Morón de la Frontera, Andalusia

The traditional practice of lime-making was a source of employment for Morón de la Frontera and a marker of its identity. When production was eclipsed by industrial lime, kilns fell into disuse and transmission of knowledge ceased. The project’s primary goals are to raise awareness of the practice and importance of lime-making and to improve living conditions for craftspeople. To this end, the Cultural Association of the Lime Kilns of Morón was established, and gave birth to an ethnographic centre and a living museum that displays the craft process in situ. Kilns have been restored and the project actively promotes transmission of techniques to new generations. Outreach activities in cooperation with lime craftspeople focus on recovering expertise and techniques for use in sustainable construction.

• museocaldemoron.com

Festival de los Patios - Cordoba, Andalusia

Every year in May fifty-five homes located in the historic center of Cordoba opens their doors to every traveler who wishes to enjoy the floral splendor of their courtyards.

• Competition for best patio, concerts and flamenco performances. From 8 to 19 May 2013.
• www.patiosdecordoba.es
• www.amigosdelospatioscordobeses.es

Falconry - Spain

Spain is the ideal destination to observe or participate in this traditional activity, which involves breeding and training falcons and/or other birds of prey to hunt in their natural environment.

• SpainInfo.com
• AECCA - Spain's Falconry Association
• Cetrero.com

Flamenco (Andalusia, Extremadura and Murcia)

¡Flamenco! Flamenco is an artistic expression fusing song, dance and musicianship. Although Andalusia is the heartland of Flamenco, it also has roots in the regions of Murcia and Extremadura. 

• The Badasom Festival in Badajoz (Extremadura) from 10 to 13 July, with flamenco as well as Portuguese fado.
• Festival Internacional del Cante de las Minas in La Unión (Murcia), the first week of August, .
• And November 16th is the Day of Flamenco in Andalusia.
• www.fundacioncantedelasminas.org

Irrigators' Tribunals of the Spanish Mediterranean

Traditional tribunals dealing with local irrigation matters. The Council of Wise Men of the Plain of Murcia, dates back to the 9th century, while the Water Tribunal of the Plain of Valencia is the oldest institution of justice in Europe. Their oral proceedings are fast, transparent and impartial. Their decision is final. In addition to their legal roles, these courts contribute to the oral transmission of knowledge derived from centuries-old cultural exchanges. They have their own specialist vocabulary peppered with Arabic borrowings. In short, the courts are long-standing repositories of local and regional identity and are of special significance to local inhabitants -- and they are something to see.

• Can be seen on Thursdays at Murcia City Hall and at the Gate of the Apostles entrance to the Cathedral of Valencia, respectively.
• www.tribunaldelasaguas.com
• www.juntadehacendados.es 

La Patum - Berga, Catalonia

During the holy week of Corpus Christi, townspeople dress as mystical and symbolical figures and dance through the streets to the beat of a kettledrum called a tabal. Among the things to be seen are turcs i cavallets (Turks and knights), maces (hell), guites (mules), àligas (eagles) vells nans i nans nous (old dwarfs and new dwarfs), gegants (paper mache  giants) and plens (with burning fuets on). This event has origins in pre-Christian summer solstice celebrations of the, which were adapted by the Catholic Church. Today it is not religious, but rather more a bit of popular street theater. 

• From May 29 to June 2 2013
• www.lapatum.cat

Mare de Deu de la Salut - Algemesi, Valencia

The Festival of Our Lady of Health dates back to the 13th century and involves theatre, dance, music and street processions. Three processions are held, one on 7 September and two on the 8th. They include Muixeranga, which are human towers similar to the Castellers but which include the performance of a dance. There are seven dance events, 63 musical compositions, street depictions of historical and biblical characters, scenes of martyrdoms, living tableaus, etc.

• www.museuvalenciadelafesta.com

Mediterranean Diet - Spain

The main ingredients of the Mediterranean diet include olive oil, cereals, fruits, vegetables, a moderate amount of meat, fish and dairy products, seasoning and spices, accompanied by wine or infusions.  UNESCO mentions Soria, in Castile-León, as a prime example of a city that is committed to the Mediterranean diet, but this glorious food can be enjoyed all over Spain.

• SpainInfo.com - Soria
• TastingSpain.es 

Misteri d'Elx - Elche, Valencia

A two-part liturgical drama dating from the Middle Ages commemorating the Dormition, Assumption and Heavenly Coronation of the Virgin Mary. It is sung in Valencian and Latin and performed in the Basilica de Santa María. Dress rehearsals can be seen on some days before the events, with part one performed on August 14th and part two on the Feast of the Assumption, August 15th.

• www.misteridelx.com
• www.visitelche.com

Whistled Language of La Gomera - La Gomera Island, Canary Islands

The Silbo Gomero replicates the islanders’ vocal language (Castilian Spanish) with whistling. Handed down over centuries from master to pupil, it is the only whistled language in the world that is fully developed and practised by a large community -- more than 22,000 inhabitants. The whistled language replaces each vowel or consonant with a whistling sound: two distinct whistles replace the five Spanish vowels, and there are four whistles for consonants. The whistles can be distinguished according to pitch and whether they are interrupted or continuous. With practice, whistlers can convey any message. The language takes advantage of the peculiar topography of the island, reverberating across its deep ravines and narrow valleys. Messages can be heard up to five miles away.

• Demonstrations can be easily be observed on a visit to the island.
• The Whistle
• www.silbogomero.com.es

Spain's 'Semana Santa' Celebrations Threatened By Rain Throughout The Country

It looks like I may not get to see many, if any, processions, or even spend time sunning on the beach on my Semana Santa holiday in Cartagena. But I'm not alone -- Spain is supposed to be awash in rain this Holy Week 2011, much to the dismay of the brotherhoods, the penitents, and tourists like me. Indeed, I left a partly cloudy Barcelona this morning, and about a fourth of the way on the eight-hour train trip the inundation started. Thankfully, the rain stopped before we reached our destination, but heavy clouds greeted us.

According to weather reports, most of the Peninsula and the Balearic Islands will be under a cloud cover, with weak to moderate rain, and occasional storms. Even the Canary Islands are expected to have gray skies, with the possibility of light rain in the northern islands. Things are expected to start clearing up everywhere on Monday -- the day I head back to Barcelona!

Thank God there are lots of museums to visit here in Cartagena, and everywhere in Spain. Wait a minute! Thursday, Friday, and Sunday are holidays, so chances are many museums will be closed! Oh, well, my hotel is great, I have lovely friends who live here, and, of course, clouds and rain can't ruin all the wonderful Spanish cuisine available all year long - then, too, there's always the chance that the weather men and women will be proved wrong.

Wherever you will be this Easter weekend, I hope it will be a good one - come rain, or come shine.

Saludos amig@s,

Carloz  


P.S. Here's a local report in English, from The Reader.es: 23 provinces prepare for a soggy Easter weekend

A White Kings' Day = Un Día de Reyes Blanco

Incredible as it may seem, it has been a white Kings Day (aka Epiphany) here in Barcelona! Although it was more like heavy sleet than snow, enough of it accumulated on local sidewalks, streets and plazas to cover the city in a dazzling white blanket. Drivers panicked and pedestrians tread carefully, but children may have interpreted it as one more gift from the Three Kings. All in all, it's been a nice holiday for this big kid, too.

Yesterday evening I walked in near freezing temperatures down to the most central of Barcelona's marinas to see the Magi arrive. To cheering crowds of children, parents and tourists, the Three Wise Men disembarked from the historic schooner Santa Eulalia, and accepted the keys to the city from Mayor Jordi Hereu. After various speeches, the Kings and their Pages walked through the throngs to collect letters from the little ones, so that they would know what gifts to deliver that night.

Eventually Melchior, Gaspar and Balthazar split up into separate cream-colored convertible Rugby's from the 1920s that had been waiting to drive them to another location, where they were to meet up with Father Christmas (Papa Noel), and get on their respective floats so that the official 2009 Parade of the Kings (Cabalgata de los Reyes Magos) could wind through the city's avenues. I read in the newspaper today that nearly half-a-million people lined the streets to see the Three Kings, Santa and various other holiday luminaries roll by -- and throw candy and/or "coal" at the kids.

Today I headed out in the snowy cold to a Norwegian friend's for a Kings' Day get together. After stuffing ourselves with a scrumptious meal of homemade Mexican food, we settled in for a good Japanese film on DVD -- with Spanish subtitles, of course. (Talk about an international observance of the day!) We also enjoyed a colorful and sweet King Cake (Roscone de Reyes) for dessert -- and this year I got the piece with the King!

Feliz Reyes amig@s,

Carloz

P.S. You can see a colorful photo slide show of the arrival of the Kings and the parade on ElPeriodico.com.

P.P.S. For more on Holiday Season traditions in Spain, see my Dec. 23, 2007 post, Christmas, New Year and Kings Day Traditions in Spain.

Welcome 2009 with Carloz' Broad Beans and Sausage in Wine

In the part of the USA I come from, the Deep South, it is a tradition to welcome in the New Year with a heaping, hot dish of black eyed peas. Aside from being sturdy fare that is attractive in winter, it is supposed to bring good luck in the year ahead. Here in Spain, and in other Mediterranean countries such as Italy and Greece, another legume is traditional in New Years recipes -- lentils. They are supposed to bring luck, prosperity and health.

Is it just a coincidence that such starchy items are New Year's food staples in various places? I doubt it. As Nigella Lawson noted in that NPR program I referred to in my previous post, it makes perfect sense on a winter holiday, when many people drink late into the night, to have a meal that is largely made up of carbohydrates.

Since I could not find any black eyed peas here in Barcelona, and I am not crazy about lentils, I took inspiration from Lawson's recipe for Italian Sausages with Lentils, as well as a common local plate, Catalan Broad Beans (or "Habas a la Catalana") and prepared the following for a friend and I to welcome in 2009:

Carloz' Broad Beans and Sausage in Wine

Spicy chorizo sausage
Broad beans
Chopped onion
White wine
Water
Olive oil
Teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Thyme
Paprika

Put the sausage in a pan with a little water, cover and bring to a boil over a high heat. Then lower the fire and simmer uncovered for 5 minutes. Drain and cut the sausage.

Put the olive oil, broad beans, and sausage in a pan over a medium heat. Add the chopped onion, salt, pepper, thyme and stir. Then pour in the wine and water. Bring to a boil over a high heat. Then reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for about 20 minutes.

Add paprika and serve.

I thought it was delicious, but I was the cook, after all. However, my friend agreed. I think she was being honest -- especially as she went back for seconds, and cleaned her plate.

Feliz 2009 amig@s,

Carloz

When the clock strikes midnight in Spain...

..it's time to eat grapes – very quickly! One for each chime of the bell. Why is that?

The 12 grapes represent the months of the new year, with the hope being that each month will be as delicious as the grapes you gulp down. Therefore, the ideal thing to do is to pop 12 sweet grapes into your mouth, because that will mean 12 pleasant months to look forward to. If you're unfortunate enough to have a sour one in the bunch, then that month will be as bitter as the fruit. So, for example, if grape number 6 is off, then your July will be, too! God forbid that there are multiple unsavory ones, as that could spoil much of your luck for the year ahead. And should you miss out on the grape eating altogether, you are quite simply courting bad luck for the entire 365 days.

That is one of the reasons why tonight throughout Spain people will welcome in another New Year with a mouthful of grapes. It's quite funny, too, because as you see those around you hurriedly trying to wolf down 12 grapes in a row, the laughter starts, which in turn makes it difficult to swallow, which causes more laughter, and then more of a panic as everyone tries to finish devouring their grapes while the chimes are still ringing.

After that, many Spaniards will wash down the grapes with one of Spain's other great vintage products, cava! Then for some people it will be dancing and celebrating in the streets, while others will watch and toast one of the festive programs on TV.

As to the roots of this “oral” tradition, I have heard different things. One of the more fanciful stories is that it started long ago at the end of a year when there was such a bountiful grape harvest that on New Year's Eve (Noche Vieja) the King generously distributed the fruit to everyone throughout the land. On the more mundane side is the report that in 1909 a group of Spanish grape growers created and promoted the idea in order to sell more product. The truth probably lies somewhere else.

It is interesting to note that similar traditions exist in other Mediterranean countries, as well as in Latin America. Cook and writer Nigella Lawson observed on a radio show on New Year food traditions broadcast by NPR a year ago that a tradition of eating exactly 12 grapes also exists in Malta, whereas Italy's midnight grape consuming tradition involves manically eating as many grapes as possible to ensure good health in the coming year.

Lawson also mentioned what she thought were deeper meanings of such customs. She saw a connection to folk wisdom, in that people in grape growing regions have always known that grapes are healthy, whereas science only discovered relatively recently that grape skins contain resvesterol, which may prevent cancer and heart disease.

But perhaps just as significant is the fact that, as Lawson said, “you’re doing something year in, year out, that your antecedents have done as well. And I think that’s such an important part of human ritual.”

So, here in Spain the old year ends and the new one begins with laughs, hugs, kisses, good wishes and, most of all, the tradition and hope symbolized by 12 guileless grapes.

Feliz año nuevo amig@s,

Carloz

I'll bet that in this year's Christmas Speech the King will...

Like many people in Spain tonight, I will be watching television at 9pm to see King Juan Carlos' give his annual Christmas speech. To be honest, since it is broadcast on all channels, it is kind of hard to avoid. However, I actually seek it out because I always enjoy it.

One simple reason I like to watch it is that the King speaks so clearly that it's very easy for me to understand everything he says. Another is that after listening to his warm words I always feel a little more integrated into Spain -- especially since he usually expresses welcome to foreigners who have chosen to live here. In addition, since my home country has neither royalty nor a national Christmas speech tradition, this event holds more than a bit of curious charm for me.

Of course some Spaniards love the custom, some hate it, some are indifferent and some find it amusing -- especially comedians and cartoonists. For example, because the King usually starts the speech by saying "La reina y yo" (The Queen and I), that little phrase is consistently used when parodying Juan Carlos. There is even a weekly comic strip by that title which appears in the magazine El Jueves.

In his speech the King typically mentions significant accomplishments of the preceding year and touches on the challenges the nation faces. Other topics usually include Spain's transition to Democracy during his reign, the Spanish Constitution, the country's commitment to European integration, and calls for unity, equality, non-discrimination, and mutual respect.

Perhaps because each year he touches on similar themes and repeats certain words and phrases, this year an enterprising group has created a web site where people can place bets on what the King will say in his Discurso de Navidad-- and how he will say it. On KingandWin.com you can wager money on such pressing matters as:

• Whether or not His Royal Majesty will say the word "pride" or "satisfaction" first.
• Precisely how long the speech will last.
• Will "Eurocup" crop up in the discourse?
• Will the Sovereign sport a striped or a solid tie?
• Exactly how many times will His Illustrious Highness utter "Spain"?
• How many Royal Family members will be in framed photos on his desk?
• Which word will His Royal Highness repeat more often: diversity or majority?
• Will the European Union flag be part of the background?
• How many times will His Excellency use the preposition "de"?
• Will there be a nativity scene on the scene?
• Will His Serene Highness use the word "drugs"?
• Will the Spanish flag be to the Monarch's left or right?

The web site offers a total of 15 questions, with each one having three possible answers. The player who gets the most correct answers will win a cash prize of 1,500 euros; if there are ties, the prize money will be evenly distributed.

So, tonight, besides listening for the usual expressions of warmth and encouragement I look forward to each year, I will be paying special attention to hear whether or not El Rey uses the word "crisis" once, more than once, or not at all.

Chao amig@s,

Carloz

Saints above, party in the street!

Today is a public holiday in Madrid, as well as a day of festivities in a few other places in Spain. What's it all about?
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Well, it's all supposed to be in honor of Saint Isidore the Laborer or San Isidro el Labrador. Saint Isidore (born in 1070, died on 15 May 1130) was a native of Madrid who became the patron saint of the peasants and laborers. According to legend, he was a poor peasant farmer, who along with his wife Maria (also a saint - Santa María de la Cabeza), was so generous that they shared the little they had with others. Today Saint Isidore is the patron saint of Madrid, as well as of other locations in Spain and around the world.
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Although the 15th is the official holiday, in Madrid the partying starts the Friday before that date and lasts until the the following Sunday when cookouts serving traditional Madrid stew (cocido Madrileño) are held around the region. While most events take place in or near downtown Madrid, all of the Autonomous Region known as The Community of Madrid ("Communidad de Madrid") observes the holiday. So, suburbs, neighboring towns and even small villages have their own special events.
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Back in the city, probably one of the most traditional parts of the of the observance is the pilgrimage to the hermitage erected in the saint's honor in Saint Isidore's Meadow (La pradera de San Isidro) on the banks of the Río Manzanares River. In Plaza de las Vistillas the saint's statue is paraded around while Madrileños wear traditional costumes, enjoy picnics and drink from the plaza's fountain. At night concerts are held there. Plaza Mayor in the city center probably sees the most action, with nightly concerts and one of the biggest cocido cookouts. Another big event is the series of bullfights held at Madrid's iconic Las Ventas bullring. Of course there are many other events all week long: parades, exhibitions, street fairs, and a wide variety of musical performances -- from opera to flamenco pop to Hip-Hop; from local bands to international stars.
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Although only an official holiday in Madrid sine 1947, a picture Goya painted in 1778, La pradera de San Isidro, attests to the importance of this event in the city's past.
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Places outside the Community of Madrid that have events honoring San Isidro as their Patron Saint include:
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Tenerife, Canary Islands
Yecla, Murcia Province
Castalla, Alicante Province
Dueñas, Palencia Province
Medina de Pomar, Burgos Province
Alameda, Estepona and Nerja, Málaga Province
Bujalance and Cañete de las Torres, Córdoba Province
Alcadozo, Cenizate and Zulema, Albacete Province
Mazcuerras, Cantabria
Paterna del Campo, Huelva Province
Cañada Juncosa, Cuenca Province
Santa María del Páramo, León Province
Huétor-Tájar , Granada Province
La Lastrilla, Segovia Province
Villasequilla, ToledoProvince
Torreorgaz, Cáceres Province
and, of course, in the town of San Isidro, Almería Province.
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Chao amig@s,
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Carloz

Dancing in the Street at Second Easter Time

Today is a public holiday in Barcelona – Lunes de Pascua Granada, which literally translates as something like, “Fructifying Easter Monday.” However, it is commonly called Lunes de Segunda Pascua, which is more easily translated into, "Second Easter Monday." In the English speaking world it's known as the day after Pentecost, or Whit Monday. Aside from Barcelona, this day is observed as a holiday in a few other parts of Spain, such as Valencia and the Basque Country, as well as in several European countries, including Belgium, Denmark, the Netherlands, Norway, Poland and parts of Austria, Germany, Hungary and Switzerland...

To read more, go to the updated post here. 

Barcelona's April Fair - Feria de Abril

Today is the last day of the 37th edition of Barcelona's April Fair. Some of you may be thinking, “Why does a so-called April fair happen in May?” – and those of you who know Spain may be asking, “Isn't the April Fair held in Seville each year?”
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Well, the original April Fair, which was first held in 1847, is the one that occurs in Seville each year. It usually starts two weeks after Semana Santa (Holy Week). There are also smaller April Fairs held in several Andalusian cities and towns at around the same time.
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In 1971 immigrants to Barcelona from Andalusia, and their descendants, began their own version of this rite of spring. Today Barcelona's is the second largest April Fair in Spain, rivaled only by the one in Seville. This fair typically runs from the last week of April through the first week of May.
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So, just what is an April Fair? Well, first and foremost, it is fun. Secondly, it's an opportunity to revel in Spanish, especially Andalusian, culture – flamenco, sevillianas, rumbas, boleros, pienetas, mantillas, shawls, riding jackets, castanets, cantaores, bailaoras, Jerez sherry, manzanilla wine, tapas, gazpacho, ham, and, my favorite, the Spanish confection churrrrrrrrros!
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In Barcelona's version, the April Fair is also a celebration of multiculturalism. This is in recognition of the fact that Catalonia absorbed hundreds of thousands of “internal immigrants”from Andalusia, Murcia and Extremadura during the 50s, 60s and 70s and is now absorbing a new wave of immigrants, but this time from Latin America, Morocco, Pakistan and Eastern Europe. Indeed the current President of the Catalan government, José Montilla, was one of these “immigrants” from Andalusia, having relocated with his family to Catalonia when he was 16.
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Because of all this, aside from the typical pavilions (casetas) dedicated to towns in Andalusia, you can find others like the Casita Latina, the Centro Cultural Gitano La Mina (The Gypsy Cultural Center of La Mina) and the Moroccan pavilion, with food, drink and gifts on sale in support of El Colectivo para la Defensa y la Protección de las Constantes Sagradas del Reino de Marruecos (The Collective for the Defense and Protection of the Sacred Attributes of the Kingdom of Morocco). In addition, visitors to the festival are a mosaic of people from around Spain and the world. However, there are usually not very many tourists. For that last reason, I find it a particularly authentic experience.
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Another difference between the events in Seville and Barcelona is that in Seville the pavilions are privately owned and one must be an insider of sorts (e.g., a family member or friend, a member of an organization or willing to pay a lot of money) to gain entry. While in Seville members of the public can walk around and “press ones nose to the glass,” metaphorically speaking, at Barcelona's more egalitarian event anyone can walk into a pavilion, sit down and, if they dare, dance! In Seville, the pavilions are decorated, but tend to all look similar from the outside. In Barcelona pavilion interiors and facades are colorfully, often cleverly, decorated -- and in Barcelona, there is a even a contest for best decor!
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Each year the sponsoring organization, FECAC (Federación de Entidades Culturales Andaluzas en Cataluña = Federation of Andalusian Cultural Groups in Catalonia), chooses the top three pavilions, as well as the best interior and best facade. This year there were 58 pavilions and the prizes went to:

• 1st Prize – La Casa de Andalucía de Cerdanyola
  
• 2nd Prize and Best Facade - La Hermandad Nuestra Señora del Rocío-Los Romeros de Barcelona
  
• 3rd Prize & Best Facade - Centro Cultural Colonia Egabrense de Santa Coloma de Gramenet
  
• Best Interior - La Hermandad Nuestra Señora del Rocío de Rubí

All the pavilions of Barcelona's Feria de Abril are welcoming places where members of the public can rest from walking around the fairgrounds, buy a drink, eat a meal, snack on tapas, listen to music, watch dancers, or get up and dance. Most of the pavilions are sponsored by cultural associations created by and for Andalusian immigrants and their descendants. There are also pavilions sponsored by political parties from just about the entire spectrum. In addition to pavilions, there are stalls selling clothing, arts, crafts, and food items from around Spain. There is also a fun-fair for kids, with a Ferris wheel and other rides, as well as little stands selling hot dogs, ice-cream, cotton candy, drinks and, of course, churrrrrrrrros!
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Admission to the fairgrounds is free. Prices in the pavilions are regulated by the fair organizers, but prices in the stands and stalls are not. So, the best deals are on food and drink often in the pavilions.
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The entire thing is an 11 day feast of sight, sound, smell, touch and taste. And the joy is contagious – whether its that of the professional dancers on the stages, the colorfully costumed bands of singers & dancers who roam around the grounds or the civilians strutting their stuff on the pavilion dance floors.
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¡Viva la feria de abril!
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Carloz
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P.D. Y, ¡viva los churrrrrrrrros!

Saint George - dragon + roses + books = Saint George's Day!

Today is Saint George's Day in several parts of Spain (Aragon, Catalonia and Valencia), as well as in England and Portugal. (Saint George also has commemorative days in other countries and cities, including the Republic of Georgia, the Republic of Macedonia, Serbia, and the city of Moscow, but those observations are at different times of the year.)
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Here in Barcelona el Día de San Jorge (Spanish) / la Diada de Sant Jordi (Catalan) is a sort of Valentines-like celebration involving roses and books. Apparently roses have been associated with this day since medieval times, and it is believed that it was in the 15th century that the local tradition began of giving a rose your loved one on this date. A slightly newer tradition is that of giving a book along with the rose. Apparently in 1923 a Barcelona book publisher got the idea to combine the commemoration of the death of Saint George with that of two writers who also died on April 23rd -- Miguel Cervantes and William Shakespeare.
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Nowadays the book and rose are accompanied by a little Catalan flag (la senyera) and a wheat stem. The rose represents passion; the wheat, fertility; the flag, the patron saint of Catalonia -- Saint George! And the book -- well, one could say it represents intellect, but perhaps commerce would be equally accurate. Since Barcelona is the publishing capital of both the Catalan and Spanish languages, it is promoted very heavily by all publishing houses, as well as bookstores, libraries, schools and such. Indeed, it is probably the biggest day for book sales in Catalonia.
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Stalls are set up all over the city to sell books and roses to passers by. Bookstores and libraries host special events, including book signings. This year's hottest seller will probably be "El Juego del Ángel" (The Angel's Game), local writer Carlos Ruíz Zafón's prequel to "La Sombra del Viento," (The Shadow of the Wind) which was published in time to coincide with the festivities. As a matter of fact, he is in town to personally autograph copies.

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Of course there's also a special food tradition -- the Saint George's Day cake, designed to represent the Catalonian Flag. (See photo above.)
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This year's observance has an interesting twist since many Brits are in town to attend the Manchester United vs Barça soccer Champions League semi final at Camp Nou stadium. Thousands of them have been walking around waving red and white flags on a day that honors Catalonia's and England's patron saint.
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As a matter of fact, the city government was a little worried about the possibility of inebriated fans running loose all over the city, so a "ManUn fan village" has been set up in the Olympic Port near my house. Thousands of visitors spent the afternoon drinking and singing beside the marina, while local police quietly patrolled the area. I didn't see too many bookstalls around there.
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Happy Saint George's Day, amig@s,
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Carloz

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P.S. If you haven't read "The Shadow of the Wind", I highly recommend it. It's a good story set in post-civil war Barcelona. The new book, "El Juego del Ángel" (The Angel's Game), is being translated by Lucia Graves, poet Robert Graves' daughter, for publication in spring 2009. This prequel takes place in 1920s and 30s Barcelona.

Click here to see a few photos I took on Saint George's Day. 

A Holy Week Confession / Una Confesión de Semana Santa

What's the confession? Simply that I find Spain's Semana Santa observances really boring.

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Well, having the week off I find interesting, but the Semana Santa celebrations held throughout Spain are sooooooooooo boring. The first time I saw one of the traditional processions, I initially found the phenomenon rather interesting. After the first hour or so, however, my mind started wandering -- and wondering what the big deal was about. I ended up feeling like I was at a slow motion, humorless Mardi Gras parade on downers.

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Despite the history, the color, the pageantry, the crowds, and the obvious effort put into the events by the organizing groups (called brotherhoods and fraternities / hermandades y cofradías), these are simply people traipsing about in somewhat frightening looking “penitential robes” (think KKK), carrying enormous religious tableaus (similar to those that can be seen in many Roman Catholic churches) and marching methodically to mind-numbing dirges. You almost expect to see self-flagellating footsloggers somwhere in all the fanfare. What fun!

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Maybe "ominously boring" would be a good way of describing such depressing extravaganzas. To me it's sort of like a bad dream that keeps repeating -- here comes another group of hooded men laboring under another massive platform that holds another brightly painted Sacred Heart / Virgin Mary / Crucifixion / Martyred Saint sculpture, followed by another group of robed acolytes, followed by another group of candle-carrying women in black, followed by another group of hooded men laboring under another massive platform that holds another brightly painted Sacred Heart / Virgin Mary / Crucifixion / Martyred Saint sculpture, followed by another group of robed acolytes, followed by another group of candle-carrying women in black, followed by another group of hooded men... All to the accompaniment of incessant drumming, mournful wailing, and/or brass instruments slowly blaring funereal hymns.

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I find Barcelona a good place to spend this holiday week because there are not very many Semana Santa spectacles, and, therefore they are easy to avoid. In many other cities, especially in Andalusia, they seem to almost completely take over the streets. I speak from some experience, because despite my negative reaction to that first Semana Santa scene, I have given it a try in various Spanish cities, including Alicante, Granada, Malaga and Palma de Majorca.

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Being in Palma was similar to being in Barcelona (i.e., no problems skipping the realtively few parades), so I enjoyed every bit of my time there. While I loved the cities of Alicante and Malaga, I did so despite visiting during Semana Santa. Alicante didn't have as many parades as Malaga and in both places I could at least head to the beach for a little respite when there were "festivities" droning on. In landlocked Granada, however, I was more or less trapped. Indeed, I remember feeling almost hounded by the city's seemingly non-stop processions!
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Instead of the memory of that experience fading, it has actually expanded to include fantastic images of myself being pursued by penitents down Granada's ancient streets, which in my mind seem to wind around in an Escher-like labyrinth. I try to get away from them and turn one corner after another only to keep stumbling upon more giant icons looming above throngs of mesmerized people wearing tunics, hoods and masks. As I am pushed and shoved around I sense that the participants are all trying to absorb me into the crowd so that I will be converted into one of the hordes of zombies condemned to an eternity of watching the monotonous marches go...by...so...very...very...slowly.

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(George A. Romero could have a field day with this “false memory” of mine – not to mention Freud!)
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So, having experienced traditional Semana Santa events in the past, when this time of year rolls around I flatly refuse to go to places like Seville and Cadiz, which are supposed to have some of the "best" celebrations. No, I prefer to be on a beach somewhere in Catalonia.
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Hasta siempre amig@s,
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Carloz

Happy New Year's Eve from Bilbao! / ¡Felice noche vieja desde Bilbao! / Urte berri on nork Bilbo!

Greetings from Bilbao! What an incredible looking city: mountains, valleys and riverbanks embedded with exciting architecture -- old and new; traditional and vanguard. I'll write more about that next year.
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I had barely arrived here when I learned about another Spanish holiday tradition: the Basque Country's Olentzero! Olentzero is a giant who brings presents to children on the night of Dec. 24. Apparently the legend varies, but according to the one I heard, Olentzero, who was abandoned in the forest as a newborn child, was found and raised by a fairy. When he grew up, he became a charcoal burner. In his free time he liked to carve wooden toys and dolls. Periodically he filled his charcoal bag with his carvings and gave them out to children in a nearby village.
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On one of his visits to the village he found a house burning and heard children inside calling for help. He ran into the house, found the children upstairs and helped them escape through the windows. However, before he could leave the burning house collapsed around him. The children and other villagers saw a flash of light pull Olentzero out of the flames and into the the sky. It was the fairy who had raised him. She not only rescued him, but gave him everlasting life as the Basque Country's Christmas toymaker.
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I've been told that the Basques observe traditions based on Father Christmas. Olentzero and the Three Kings, although different families may emphasize one. So, here's to the Olentzero, the Caga Tío, the Caganer, the Tifa, the Three kings, Father Christmas, and the 12 Grapes at Midnight that help to make this time of year so colorful!
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Cheers amig@s,
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Carloz

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P.S. The photo is of Bilbao City Hall.

Christmas, New Year and King's Day Traditions in Spain / Tradiciones de Navidad, Nuevo Año y Reyes en España

Today is the 27th of December. I've had a very nice holiday season so far and am looking forward to more of the same. Christmas, St. Stephens Day (the 26th, which is a bank holiday in Catalonia) and today have all been sunny and cool here in Barcelona -- highs around 16º C (60º F), lows around 5º C (40º F). On Monday I will head out to Bilbao for 5 days and return just in time for Kings Day. Then, it's back to work on the 7th.
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This is my eighth holiday season in Spain, so far, and in my opinion, it's a great time of year to be here. While I admit that I'm prejudiced and think any time of year in Spain is great, for me this one is definitely a highlight. I've been lucky enough to have experienced the season not only in Barcelona, but also in Madrid, Valenica, Sevilla, Salamanca, Sevilla and Burgos.
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Spain's holiday season begins in early December and doesn't end until January 7th, the day after Kings Day. Things more or less kick-off with the holidays of Constitution Day and the Immaculate Conception, on December 6th and 8th respectively. By this time Spanish towns and cities are decorated with holiday lights and gift shopping for Kings Day is in full swing. Two widespread traditions soon follow: public Christmas markets and life sized nativity scenes.
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The public Christmas markets are held in plazas throughout the country. Stalls are set-up to sell crafts, decorations, sweets, candles, fruits, nuts and flowers. Colorfully decorated Christmas trees are erected and the Three Kings (Los Reyes Magos) are usually available to receive letters with gift requests from children. Indeed, these three exotic looking gentlemen are not only seen at Christmas markets, but also at shopping centers, schools, on television, etc. And, of course, the Three Kings are also included in nativity scenes.
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The life sized Nativity Scenes (called Belens in Spanish, which translates as Bethlehems, in Catalan they are called Pesebres), are usually constructed near the town hall. Barcelona's is always in front of city hall in Plaza Sant Juame. On the subject of Nativity Scenes in Barcelona, Catalonia has a tradition of adding its own unique character to the scene: El Caganer.

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Caganer translates as "the defecator" or, more commonly, "the crapper." This interesting little figure does his business on the sidelines of the Nativity Scene -- for example, behind a tree or under a bush. Indeed, it can be a bit of a game to find the little fellow in some of the Nativity Scenes on display. El Caganer has been around since at least the 17th century. Explanations I have heard for this tradition include:

• he originated among the working classes in order to poke fun at the then new tradition of Nativity Scenes among the upper middle class;


• he is fertilizing the earth;


• his activity causes us to reflect on the humanity of Jesus, because all people have to defecate;
  
• it is a comment on equality, because again, all people have to defecate, regardless of origin, race, gender, etc.

Regardless of how and why the tradition came to exist, today the popular figures can be bought at Christmas markets, seen in homes or in public displays and can be male, female, a traditional looking Catalan or an effigy of a famous individual. Zapatero and Henry Thierry are particularly popular caganers this year.
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This is not the only scatological Christmas tradition in Catalonia, as there is also El Caga Tío, or the Pooping Log. (In Spanish it is called, El Caga Tronca.) El Caga Tío is a paper mache "yule log" stuffed with candy. On Christmas Eve children beat the log with sticks until it breaks open to "poop" it's contents. While beating the log children sing traditional songs, usually with a refrain along the lines of, "Poop, log, poop!"
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Little gifts and treats are given on Christmas Eve throughout Spain, which is called La Noche Buena (the Good Night), but the major gift giving day is El Día de Los Reyes. (This literally translates as Kings Day, but is more commonly known in English as Epiphany or Twelfth Night.)
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The Three Kings, therefore, are especially important to Spanish children, because they are the ones who bring presents. The Kings are known as Melchor, Gaspar and Balthazar, and represent Europe, Arabia and Africa. Children write letters to the Three Kings, visit them at shopping centers and leave food out for them on the night of January 5th. Instead of Christmas parades, Spain has Kings Parades, which are traditionally held at sunset on the 5th -- and the Kings don't use reindeer, but camels! Then on January 6th, kids wake up to find gifts left by Los Reyes Magos -- and on January 7th, New Year sales finally begin!
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Santa Claus, or Papa Noel as he is known here, is around, too, but in a less significant sense. In fact, he is a rather recent addition brought on by Hollywood and commercial interests.
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Of course, in-between Christmas and Kings Day comes New Year's Day. New Year's Eve is called Noche Vieja (Old Night) and is celebrated with street parties and by swallowing 12 grapes at midnight, one for each toll of the bell, along with a nice bottle of cava.
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Felices fiestas amig@s,
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Carloz

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P.S. This is my 100th post!

Mercy, mercy me, it's La Merce!

Today has been another public holiday in Barcelona. The last one was September 11th, which is sort of "Catalonia Day" and is called the Diada. Today, September 24th, is a holiday in the city of Barcelona, not in all of Catalonia nor anywhere else in Spain. It's called "La Mercè" which means The Mercy and which refers to Our Lady of Mercy. It's Barcelona's "Fiesta Mayor" or "Main Festival."
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Every city, town and village in Spain has a "fiesta mayor" and many were originally based on saints and such. In big cities, in addition to the official ones which are public holidays, every neighborhood has it's own little "fiesta mayor" which, while not official holidays, involve such things as parades, street parties, communal meals, concerts, carnivals for children, etc. I suppose one of the reasons for these little fiestas is that many big city neighborhoods were once separate towns. Anyway, just about every week in Barcelona there is a neighborhood "fiesta mayor" somewhere. But La Merce is the whopper of 'em all.
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Nearly every corner of the city has had something going on this weekend, including parades, firework displays, food tents, arts and crafts booths, outdoor concerts, etc. I just came in from the final parade of day, the Parade of the Giants. The giants, known as "gigantes y cabezudos" in Spanish, are made of paper mache and are worn like a costume by marhers. Cartoonish and imposing at the same time, they are representative of Kings, Queens, Pirates, Fishmongers, Laborers, Dragons and more. There was one of a woman with a breast exposed who was holding a platter with a stingray on it. I couldn't quite figure that one out. There was also a pair of giants dressed like a priest and a showgirl that seemed to resemble Prime Minister Zapatero and his wife. Hmmmm.

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One of my favorite parts of the close of the festivities is the ability to walk in the middle of Via Laietana at dusk with hundreds of other people. This street, normally full of vehicular traffic, is converted into a pedestrian walkway after the parade. Walking in the middle of it allows for a different perspective of the architecture.
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On my way home tonight I also walked through the street carnival that has been set up near the Barceloneta Yacht Basin. To be honest I had one thing in mind -- to buy fresh, hot, sugar-coated churros! My objective was easily reached, so now I will say goodbye and enjoy the treat. (OK, OK... I admit I ate a few before I got home. However, more await!)
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Chao amig@s,
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Carloz

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P.S. I was inspired this weekend to translate/adapt the articles about La Merce that appear in the Spanish and Catalan versions of Wikipedia for the English version, since it had contained nothing about the holiday previously. If you want to read about its history, click the following link: La Merce on Wiki.

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P.S. The photo above is from Larry&Flo's postings on Flickr. For more great photos of the event visit their pages.

¡Churros!

I weighed myself today and noticed that I'd lost two kilos since my last visit to the scale. Hmmm, I thought, what better way to celebrate than to go out and buy some crunchy, fattening churros! (Or in Catalan, xurros.) Sometimes I think the churro may be one of the main reasons I moved to Spain.

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I once heard churros described as Spain's answer to the doughnut. Nothing could be more untrue. From what I have been able to determine, the upstart doughnut was invented in 19th century America. Well, Spain has been around a bit longer than that and since Spanish settlers introduced churros to the new world, I think it's easy to see which fritter came first.

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The legend here is that centuries ago Spanish shepherds, who did not have ovens because of their nomadic ways, used open fires to fry the batter they made from wheat. Eventually creativity led to a sugar coated fried bread treat they called churros, because the shape resembled the horns of the churro-sheep they herded.

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Nowadays the typical Spanish churro is a slightly curved, star-shaped cylinder of dough that is fried until crunchy. They are served either with sugar sprinkled on top or covered with thick dark chocolate. I prefer the lightly sugar coated variety but many Spaniards are mad about the chocolate covered ones. It is also popular to dunk plain ones into a cup of hot chocolate so thick that it seems more like a melted chocolate bar than a drink.

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Churros can be purchased everywhere in Spain, from cafes at breakfast time to expensive restaurants that serve their own "nuevo" versions for dessert after dinner. They're even sold pre-cooked and frozen in supermarkets! There are also variations on the theme: churros rellenos ("stuffed churros" -- filled with chocolate or a cream of some sort), tejeringos (wheels about 10 cm in diameter that are sometimes served on a stick), porras (like churros, but thicker), etc., etc. etc.

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To me, however, there is nothing like the churros that come from one of the small street vendors, called churrerías, that sell freshly cooked ones. It's so nice to watch a churrero/a (churro-maker) in his/her crisp white apron fry up a batch right before your eyes, weigh out a portion for you, shake the hot little pastries into a cone shaped paper container, sprinkle a little sugar on top and then hand them over for a snack right there on the spot, while walking, while sitting on a bench or to take home.

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Although they seem in demand at just about any time of day or night, perhaps consumption peaks in the morning, either because the consumer has just gotten up and is ready to face a new day or is just going in after a long night's fiesta. I've savored them in both situations, as well as when a churro urge simply strikes, like it did this afternoon.

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If you are not in Spain or Latin America and want to try churros, here is a simple recipe:

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Ingredients

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1 cup of flour

1 cup of water

1 teaspoon of oil

1 teaspoon of olive oil

a dash of salt

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Directions

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Heat water, salt and olive oil to a boil. Add flour. Stir until it forms a batter. Let it cool and then place the batter on a flat surface. Shape the dough into cylinders. Drop them in hot oil and fry until crispy and golden.

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Serving suggestions:

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If you want your churros Spanish style, either sprinkle them with sugar, coat them in melted chocolate or serve them plain with a cup of thick hot chocolate to dunk in. To enjoy them the way Chileans do, cover them with powdered sugar. For Mexican style churros, dust them with cinnamon.

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I hope you get to enjoy some one day.

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Disfrutadlos amig@s,

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Carloz

Buenas Migas = Good Crumbs

Yesterday I went to my neighborhood beach with a friend. I made my own sandwich to eat there but my friend picked up a pasta salad and a focaccia from one of my favorite seaside eating establishments, Buenas Migas Focacceria.

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According to the folks at Buenas Migas, the pizza-like focaccia is Genoan in origin and derives its name from the Latin word 'focus', meaning hearth or fire place. It differs from everyday bread in that the dough is stretched for several hours and because it is topped with olive oil and salt. Historically in the city of Genoa, focaccia was cooked in communal ovens.

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They say that for centuries focaccia has been enjoyed by Genoan fishermen, along with a glass of white wine, before setting off onto the sea. Its simple Mediterranean recipe has made focaccia a popular dish and nowadays it is eaten all over the world with a wide range of toppings -- and I doubt there is any place that offers more delicious, economical and generous servings than Barcelona's Buenas Migas.

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Yesterday my friend got an approximately 20cm x 15cm rectangle of Focaccia Margharita (tomato, cheese, olives and oregano) along with about 200 grams of Pasta con il tonno (bow tie pasta tossed with tuna, baked vegetables, mozzarella and, of course, olive oil) as a side dish. I haven't tried the Focaccia Margharita myself, but I have had the Pasta con il tonno and found it a superb fusion of flavors -- and quite filling, too.

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How much did this cost her? Only 3.70 for the focaccia and 3.90 for the pasta. She also bought a tiny bottle of water for 1.20. However, since she was getting "take away" she just as easily could have gone a few steps around the corner to the convenience store to get a bottle two or three times as big for half the price.

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As I said, I didn't buy food from there personally yesterday, but I have in the past and have never been disappointed. My personal favorite of the carious focaccias Buneas Migas offers is the Campagnola, a mix of tomato, cheese and spicy sausage. The runner-up for my affections is the Salsiccia e cipolle, a simple combination of butifarra (Catalan sausage) and onion.

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What else do they have on offer? An assortment of focaccias, made with regular or whole flour, with a wide variety of toppings: olives, goat cheese, bacon, gorgonzala, pepperoni, red pepper, onion, eggplant, and/or tomato as well as the special "Focaccia of the season" which varies accordingly. Focaccias are priced from 3.50 to 4.70.

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Aside from the Pasta con il tonno that my friend thoroughly enjoyed, there are Pasta al pesto and Pasta con la mozzarella. All pasta dishes cost 3.90.

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Want to eat light? In the salad department, offerings include green salad, Greek salad, tuna salad, mozzarella salad, salmon salad and a raisin, cheese and nut salad. Salad prices range from 2.90 to 5.95 and come in small or large.

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Want to eat heavy? Try a Torte de Verdura (Vegetable Pie) for 4.20. All the torte's include ricotta and Parmesan cheese along with either spinach; seasonal vegetables; potato and leeks; or salmon and broccoli.

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Then there are the focaccettes and paninis. Focaccettes (a flat bread made with wheat flour mixed with corn meal) cost between 3.95 and 4.90 and come covered with combinations of topping such as brie and leeks; brie, onion and zucchini; zucchini, onion and Serrano ham; mozarrella, onion and zucchini; Serrano ham and Cresenza cheese; and salmon and cream cheese. Panini sandwiches are priced from 2.40 to 2.50 and include selections such as Manchego cheese and Serrano ham on olive bread, mozzarella and ham on walnut bread, mozzarella and tomato on focaccia and mixed vegetables on whole wheat focaccia bread.

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Drinks? Water (in really small bottles for 1.20 or 1.50), soft drinks (1.95), wine by the glass (2.10), wine in bottles (from 6.40 to 8.30), beer (2.10 to 2.20), a variety of bottled fruit drinks (1.95 - 2.20) natural orange juice (2.40) and a variety of coffees, teas and chocolates (from 1.20 to 2.30).

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Of course they've got deserts, too: cakes, pies, crumbles etc. from 2.90 to 3.30.

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Although I almost always take the food I buy there to the beach to eat, sitting inside can be pleasant, too. The location in Barceloneta has a rustic design and is on a corner facing the sea, so the view is nice. As a matter of fact, the walls literally roll up during opening hours, so it is almost like sitting outside. Diners may also sit at one of the tables on the terrace, but at a 10% surcharge for doing so. Why not just get take away and sit directly on the beach?

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Buenas Migas

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Pl. del Mar (also known as C/ de la Drassana), 1
Tel:93 221 63 16
Metro Yellow Line, Barceloneta Station then walk to the sea or take buses 17, 39, or 64 to the sea. Click here for a map.

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Other locations:

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Passeig de Gràcia, 120
Tel: 93 238 55 49
Metro Green Line or Blue Line, Diagonal station

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Pl. Bonsuccés, 6
Tel: 93 318 37 08
Metro Green Line or Red line, Pl. Catalunya station

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Baixada de Santa Clara, 2
Tel: 93 319 13 80
Metro Yellow Line, Jaume I station

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Maremagnum
Pl. de l'Odissea
Tel: 93 225 81 15
Metro L3 Drassanes

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Illa Diagonal Shopping Center
Av. Diagonal 557
Tel: 93 444 29 89
Metro Green Line, Maria Cristina station

Spain's Saturday News: The bulls, nudes and politicians are running!

The running of the toros begins in Pamplona. The bulls were after the crowds in the streets of Pamplona today for the first 'encierro' (bull run) of the Festival of San Fermin. Of course injuries are inevitable as throngs make a mad dash ahead of the two ton animals charging down the narrow streets, but only seven people have been treated for minor injuries so far.
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Last year, more than 200,000 people traveled to Pamplona, according to the city government, and even more are expected this year because the start of the festival fell on the beginning of a weekend. The major day of the festival is always July 7th, when thousands march and dance through the streets of Pamplona with an effigy of Saint Fermin.
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Every day of the festival has a carnival atmosphere, with rides, dancing and lots of wine and sangria. At night the partying intensifies, with street entertainers and large puppet-like 'giants' roaming around. Then in the morning, the encierro begins again.

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Click here for photos of the fiesta.
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The running of the desnudos, too. This past Thursday Peta (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) organized a nude march through Pamplona. Animal rights activists wearing red scarves, fake horns and not much else chanted slogans such as, ''Bulls yes! Bullfighters no!'' and ''Torture isn't culture.''
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A statement on PETA’s website reads: “The Running of the Bulls and bullfighting are often justified as culture and tradition, but some traditions – like child labour and slavery – are bad and need to end.”

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Click here for photos of the event.
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Then there's the running of the politicos. El Pais reported today that according to a survey conducted by CIS (Centro de Investigaciones Sociológicas), 45% of those surveyed who sRunning of theaw or listened to the debate thought Prime Minister Zapatero won, while only 16.5% thought opposition leader Rajoy did. In addition, 60% responded that Zapatero seemed knowledgeable about the problems facing the country, 70% that he demonstrated moderation during the debate and 63% that he handled criticism well. Rajoy scored 56%, 34% and 34% respectively on the same questions.
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Click here to see more of the results.

Delicious budget dining in Barcelona: La Mar Salada (The Savory Sea)

A good friend treated me to a delicious lunch yesterday. This particular friend and I have a habit of seeking out good places to eat economically, and the place we visited is certainly one of the best we have found.

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While we were enjoying our meal I was reminded of an article from the New York Times that someone recently emailed me. It was written by a young man who had visited Barcelona and complained that it was not a good place to visit for a person on a limited budget. My response to the person who emailed me the article was, "That guy just didn't know where to go!"

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As someone who lives here I can say that Barcelona offers opportunities for all sorts of budgets, from luxury to mid-range to back-packer. For example, yesterday's spot is a place I believe most visitors in the backpacker range could afford and diners on any budget would enjoy.

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La Mar Salada (The Savory Sea) is a lovely little restaurant in my neighborhood, Barceloneta. It is situated on Passeig Joan de Borbo (which I have nicknamed "Paella Row" because it is dotted with restaurants offering varieties of this delicious rice dish) and has a bright, comfortable dining room as well as a clean canopy covered terrace.

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We sat on the terrace and ordered from the "menu of the day" ("menu del día"), which is the selection of specially priced set menus that most Spanish restaurants have each day. In Spanish these offerings are often simply referred to as "el menu." (What we English speakers refer to as "the menu" is "la carta" in Spanish.) Spanish "menus" typically include bread, a starter dish, a main dish, a desert, a drink (bottled water, wine, beer or a soft drink) and a choice of desert or coffee.

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Yesterday's "menu" offerings were varied. Catalan Salad (which included the local 'butifara' sausage), Steamed Mussels, Swiss Chard Au Gratin and Lasagna were some of the choices for the first dish. Options for the second included Paella Mixta, Baked Gilthead Bream, Fillet Steak and Roast Sirloin.

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I opted for the Swiss Chard Au Gratin to start with while my friend selected the Mussels. Not too long after placing the order, two large steaming dishes were delivered to our table. My companion's plate was piled high with beautiful black shells offering up the almost golden meat inside. My dish was about as big as a loaf of bread and as warm and tasty as a freshly made dish should be. It had a light brown crust covering layers of greens baked in a tangy cheese sauce.

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Neither of us could pass up the Paella Mixta, so soon after we finished our "starters" we were served two hot platters full of saffron colored rice doused with shrimp, mussels, clams, scallops, sausage, chicken, sweet pepper, onion, garlic... It had just the right mix of a smoky saffron taste balanced by the spicy blend of seafood and meat flavors. Talk about good!!

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It was hard to believe, but, we still had dessert to come! We bypassed the fresh melon and the Neapolitan ice cream for items made in the kitchen. My friend chose a cake that had a cheese base and a strawberry sauce topping. (I took a bite and it was very tasty.) I had the homemade yogurt, which was exquisite: a goblet shaped dish filled with a cloud of rich, creamy, white yogurt that was perfectly sweet. A scrumptious end to a delicious meal.

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The price for this superbly satisfying meal? Only 9 euros a piece! And that's the price of the "menu del día" at La Mar Salada each weekday at lunch time. So, there you have it -- good value and excellent quality in a great location.

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La Mar Salada
Passeig Joan de Borbo, 58-59
93 221 21 27
Lunch: 1pm - 4:30pm; Dinner: 8pm - 11pm; Closed Tuesdays