When the clock strikes midnight in Spain...

..it's time to eat grapes – very quickly! One for each chime of the bell. Why is that?

The 12 grapes represent the months of the new year, with the hope being that each month will be as delicious as the grapes you gulp down. Therefore, the ideal thing to do is to pop 12 sweet grapes into your mouth, because that will mean 12 pleasant months to look forward to. If you're unfortunate enough to have a sour one in the bunch, then that month will be as bitter as the fruit. So, for example, if grape number 6 is off, then your July will be, too! God forbid that there are multiple unsavory ones, as that could spoil much of your luck for the year ahead. And should you miss out on the grape eating altogether, you are quite simply courting bad luck for the entire 365 days.

That is one of the reasons why tonight throughout Spain people will welcome in another New Year with a mouthful of grapes. It's quite funny, too, because as you see those around you hurriedly trying to wolf down 12 grapes in a row, the laughter starts, which in turn makes it difficult to swallow, which causes more laughter, and then more of a panic as everyone tries to finish devouring their grapes while the chimes are still ringing.

After that, many Spaniards will wash down the grapes with one of Spain's other great vintage products, cava! Then for some people it will be dancing and celebrating in the streets, while others will watch and toast one of the festive programs on TV.

As to the roots of this “oral” tradition, I have heard different things. One of the more fanciful stories is that it started long ago at the end of a year when there was such a bountiful grape harvest that on New Year's Eve (Noche Vieja) the King generously distributed the fruit to everyone throughout the land. On the more mundane side is the report that in 1909 a group of Spanish grape growers created and promoted the idea in order to sell more product. The truth probably lies somewhere else.

It is interesting to note that similar traditions exist in other Mediterranean countries, as well as in Latin America. Cook and writer Nigella Lawson observed on a radio show on New Year food traditions broadcast by NPR a year ago that a tradition of eating exactly 12 grapes also exists in Malta, whereas Italy's midnight grape consuming tradition involves manically eating as many grapes as possible to ensure good health in the coming year.

Lawson also mentioned what she thought were deeper meanings of such customs. She saw a connection to folk wisdom, in that people in grape growing regions have always known that grapes are healthy, whereas science only discovered relatively recently that grape skins contain resvesterol, which may prevent cancer and heart disease.

But perhaps just as significant is the fact that, as Lawson said, “you’re doing something year in, year out, that your antecedents have done as well. And I think that’s such an important part of human ritual.”

So, here in Spain the old year ends and the new one begins with laughs, hugs, kisses, good wishes and, most of all, the tradition and hope symbolized by 12 guileless grapes.

Feliz año nuevo amig@s,

Carloz

Happy New Year's Eve from Bilbao! / ¡Felice noche vieja desde Bilbao! / Urte berri on nork Bilbo!

Greetings from Bilbao! What an incredible looking city: mountains, valleys and riverbanks embedded with exciting architecture -- old and new; traditional and vanguard. I'll write more about that next year.
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I had barely arrived here when I learned about another Spanish holiday tradition: the Basque Country's Olentzero! Olentzero is a giant who brings presents to children on the night of Dec. 24. Apparently the legend varies, but according to the one I heard, Olentzero, who was abandoned in the forest as a newborn child, was found and raised by a fairy. When he grew up, he became a charcoal burner. In his free time he liked to carve wooden toys and dolls. Periodically he filled his charcoal bag with his carvings and gave them out to children in a nearby village.
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On one of his visits to the village he found a house burning and heard children inside calling for help. He ran into the house, found the children upstairs and helped them escape through the windows. However, before he could leave the burning house collapsed around him. The children and other villagers saw a flash of light pull Olentzero out of the flames and into the the sky. It was the fairy who had raised him. She not only rescued him, but gave him everlasting life as the Basque Country's Christmas toymaker.
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I've been told that the Basques observe traditions based on Father Christmas. Olentzero and the Three Kings, although different families may emphasize one. So, here's to the Olentzero, the Caga Tío, the Caganer, the Tifa, the Three kings, Father Christmas, and the 12 Grapes at Midnight that help to make this time of year so colorful!
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Cheers amig@s,
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Carloz

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P.S. The photo is of Bilbao City Hall.

Christmas, New Year and King's Day Traditions in Spain / Tradiciones de Navidad, Nuevo Año y Reyes en España

Today is the 27th of December. I've had a very nice holiday season so far and am looking forward to more of the same. Christmas, St. Stephens Day (the 26th, which is a bank holiday in Catalonia) and today have all been sunny and cool here in Barcelona -- highs around 16º C (60º F), lows around 5º C (40º F). On Monday I will head out to Bilbao for 5 days and return just in time for Kings Day. Then, it's back to work on the 7th.
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This is my eighth holiday season in Spain, so far, and in my opinion, it's a great time of year to be here. While I admit that I'm prejudiced and think any time of year in Spain is great, for me this one is definitely a highlight. I've been lucky enough to have experienced the season not only in Barcelona, but also in Madrid, Valenica, Sevilla, Salamanca, Sevilla and Burgos.
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Spain's holiday season begins in early December and doesn't end until January 7th, the day after Kings Day. Things more or less kick-off with the holidays of Constitution Day and the Immaculate Conception, on December 6th and 8th respectively. By this time Spanish towns and cities are decorated with holiday lights and gift shopping for Kings Day is in full swing. Two widespread traditions soon follow: public Christmas markets and life sized nativity scenes.
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The public Christmas markets are held in plazas throughout the country. Stalls are set-up to sell crafts, decorations, sweets, candles, fruits, nuts and flowers. Colorfully decorated Christmas trees are erected and the Three Kings (Los Reyes Magos) are usually available to receive letters with gift requests from children. Indeed, these three exotic looking gentlemen are not only seen at Christmas markets, but also at shopping centers, schools, on television, etc. And, of course, the Three Kings are also included in nativity scenes.
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The life sized Nativity Scenes (called Belens in Spanish, which translates as Bethlehems, in Catalan they are called Pesebres), are usually constructed near the town hall. Barcelona's is always in front of city hall in Plaza Sant Juame. On the subject of Nativity Scenes in Barcelona, Catalonia has a tradition of adding its own unique character to the scene: El Caganer.

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Caganer translates as "the defecator" or, more commonly, "the crapper." This interesting little figure does his business on the sidelines of the Nativity Scene -- for example, behind a tree or under a bush. Indeed, it can be a bit of a game to find the little fellow in some of the Nativity Scenes on display. El Caganer has been around since at least the 17th century. Explanations I have heard for this tradition include:

• he originated among the working classes in order to poke fun at the then new tradition of Nativity Scenes among the upper middle class;


• he is fertilizing the earth;


• his activity causes us to reflect on the humanity of Jesus, because all people have to defecate;
  
• it is a comment on equality, because again, all people have to defecate, regardless of origin, race, gender, etc.

Regardless of how and why the tradition came to exist, today the popular figures can be bought at Christmas markets, seen in homes or in public displays and can be male, female, a traditional looking Catalan or an effigy of a famous individual. Zapatero and Henry Thierry are particularly popular caganers this year.
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This is not the only scatological Christmas tradition in Catalonia, as there is also El Caga Tío, or the Pooping Log. (In Spanish it is called, El Caga Tronca.) El Caga Tío is a paper mache "yule log" stuffed with candy. On Christmas Eve children beat the log with sticks until it breaks open to "poop" it's contents. While beating the log children sing traditional songs, usually with a refrain along the lines of, "Poop, log, poop!"
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Little gifts and treats are given on Christmas Eve throughout Spain, which is called La Noche Buena (the Good Night), but the major gift giving day is El Día de Los Reyes. (This literally translates as Kings Day, but is more commonly known in English as Epiphany or Twelfth Night.)
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The Three Kings, therefore, are especially important to Spanish children, because they are the ones who bring presents. The Kings are known as Melchor, Gaspar and Balthazar, and represent Europe, Arabia and Africa. Children write letters to the Three Kings, visit them at shopping centers and leave food out for them on the night of January 5th. Instead of Christmas parades, Spain has Kings Parades, which are traditionally held at sunset on the 5th -- and the Kings don't use reindeer, but camels! Then on January 6th, kids wake up to find gifts left by Los Reyes Magos -- and on January 7th, New Year sales finally begin!
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Santa Claus, or Papa Noel as he is known here, is around, too, but in a less significant sense. In fact, he is a rather recent addition brought on by Hollywood and commercial interests.
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Of course, in-between Christmas and Kings Day comes New Year's Day. New Year's Eve is called Noche Vieja (Old Night) and is celebrated with street parties and by swallowing 12 grapes at midnight, one for each toll of the bell, along with a nice bottle of cava.
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Felices fiestas amig@s,
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Carloz

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P.S. This is my 100th post!