Life On Mars? No, but here's a spot in Spain that's the next best thing

Rio Tinto, Huelva, Spain

By Dale Fuchs:

There are...sites in Spain that have an other-worldly feel. Consider those Darth Vader lookalikes atop Gaudi's La Pedrera in Barcelona, or the lava-made moonscapes in Tenerife.

Even some Marbella mansions might qualify for extraterrestrial status. 

Iron in the rocks makes the water red.

But a red-tinted river basin in Huelva tops the alien lovers' list. It's called the Rio Tinto, or Red River, and this stretch of rosy rocks and soil in southern Andalusia appears so extra-terrestrial that it resembles a Spanish outpost of Mars.

Tourists joke about its Martian credentials as they photograph the rust-coloured water and craters, carved by centuries of mining. 

A bridge dating from the Roman Empire still spans the Rio Tinto.

But scientists take the Rio Tinto seriously. For them, this hostile turf tinged by oxidised iron is a convenient substitute for the Red Planet. In fact, it boasts so many Martian properties that two space agencies even conducted a "mission" there last month, including a simulated Mars walk.[...]

The Rio Tinto basin is...one of about 20 strange sites around the world – from the Arizona desert to the volcanic Krafla region of Iceland – where scientists can test their equipment on unearthly landscapes. 

The Rio Tinto area looks like the red planet because it contains a high concentration of the minerals that are abundant on there, such as iron, sulphur and copper.

"Iron is what gives the Red Planet its colour – a lot of the surface of Mars basically rusted away," Mr Groemer said.

The rich ore has attracted miners since pre-Roman times. In the 19th-century, large British mining companies began extracting copper, silver, sulphur and gold from the Rio Tinto on a large scale, leaving an unearthly crater in their wake – as well as a village with well-trimmed gardens built for British employees. The mines have closed, and the only trace of human activity is the turn-of-the-century tourist train that chugs by the old rail lines, and a museum, housed in the employee hospital, that recalls "5,000 years of mining history".

The river itself is extremely acidic, with a PH of 0.7 compared to the neutral 7 of ordinary water. It springs from the ground and is isolated from other water sources by a geological fault.

Signs warn not to drink the water. "You don't even want to wash your hands in it," Mr Groemer said.

But a special form of bacteria has managed to thrive there. Last year, laboratory tests by scientists in Madrid showed that the bacteria could survive in extreme conditions similar to those found in the Martian subsoil, fuelling hopes of life-seekers.

Read more in The Independent.

Huelva Tourist Information (English)
Minas de Rio Tinto Mining Museum (English)
Parque Minero de Riotinto (Spanish)

Arty in the street!

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Barcelona is a city with a wealth of public art, especially sculpture. Two of my favorites crown each end of Rambla Cataluña: Josep Granyer's Thinking Bull and Coquettish Giraffe.

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Until June 15th these anthropomorphic forms are joined by 17 fantastic female figures created by the Spanish sculptor and painter Manolo Valdés for the outdoor exhibition "Manolo Valdés in Barcelona: Monumental sculptures." Yesterday a friend and I had the pleasure of strolling among these bronze beauties before and after a quiet lunch at one of the Rambla's many sidewalk cafés. It was a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon.
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No matter which end of the exhibition a visitor starts from, you are greeted by enormous heads of women: 'Lilie', a large head of a woman with a hat, looks out over Gran Via,one of Barcelona's busiest boulevards; and a few blocks away, at Consell de Cent Street, 'Irene I' and 'Irene II', their heads adorned by twisting metallic abstractions, welcome passersby. Valdés produced these three sculptures, along with a fourth one called 'Odalisca', especially for this exhibition. Other pieces on display include 'La Dama', 'Queen Mariana', 'Colossus' and 'Las Meninas'.

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The series of sculptures called 'Las Meninas' (Spanish for Ladies in Waiting) were particular favorites of both my friend and myself. The five figures, named after and inspired by Velázquez' 1656 painting of a little Spanish princess and her attendants, are apparently among the most famous of Valdés' works. These particular statues range from life sized to larger than life, whereas all of the other works on display are quite huge.

Interestingly Barcelona's Picasso Museum currently has an exhibition of art works inspired by the same Velázquez classic. Called Forgetting Velázquez, it is a series of fifty-eight oil paintings by the artist that, according to the museum's website, explores, “Picasso's links with the tradition of Spanish painting, and with Velázquez in particular, while proposing new readings of the series Las Meninas, thanks in part to the numerous subsequent interpretations and contributions made by various contemporary artists.” Sounds like another good Sunday destination – indeed, any day, if you're a visitor instead of a weekday working resident like me.
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By the way, the Valdés Rambla Catalunya exhibition is part of the Arte en la Calle (Art in the Street) program funded by the non-profit arm of Spain's largest savings bank, La Caixa. Last year's Rambla Cataluña exhibition was an equally impressive show of gigantic works by Poland's Igor Mitoraj.

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Chao amig@s,
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Carloz

Saints above, party in the street!

Today is a public holiday in Madrid, as well as a day of festivities in a few other places in Spain. What's it all about?
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Well, it's all supposed to be in honor of Saint Isidore the Laborer or San Isidro el Labrador. Saint Isidore (born in 1070, died on 15 May 1130) was a native of Madrid who became the patron saint of the peasants and laborers. According to legend, he was a poor peasant farmer, who along with his wife Maria (also a saint - Santa María de la Cabeza), was so generous that they shared the little they had with others. Today Saint Isidore is the patron saint of Madrid, as well as of other locations in Spain and around the world.
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Although the 15th is the official holiday, in Madrid the partying starts the Friday before that date and lasts until the the following Sunday when cookouts serving traditional Madrid stew (cocido Madrileño) are held around the region. While most events take place in or near downtown Madrid, all of the Autonomous Region known as The Community of Madrid ("Communidad de Madrid") observes the holiday. So, suburbs, neighboring towns and even small villages have their own special events.
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Back in the city, probably one of the most traditional parts of the of the observance is the pilgrimage to the hermitage erected in the saint's honor in Saint Isidore's Meadow (La pradera de San Isidro) on the banks of the Río Manzanares River. In Plaza de las Vistillas the saint's statue is paraded around while Madrileños wear traditional costumes, enjoy picnics and drink from the plaza's fountain. At night concerts are held there. Plaza Mayor in the city center probably sees the most action, with nightly concerts and one of the biggest cocido cookouts. Another big event is the series of bullfights held at Madrid's iconic Las Ventas bullring. Of course there are many other events all week long: parades, exhibitions, street fairs, and a wide variety of musical performances -- from opera to flamenco pop to Hip-Hop; from local bands to international stars.
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Although only an official holiday in Madrid sine 1947, a picture Goya painted in 1778, La pradera de San Isidro, attests to the importance of this event in the city's past.
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Places outside the Community of Madrid that have events honoring San Isidro as their Patron Saint include:
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Tenerife, Canary Islands
Yecla, Murcia Province
Castalla, Alicante Province
Dueñas, Palencia Province
Medina de Pomar, Burgos Province
Alameda, Estepona and Nerja, Málaga Province
Bujalance and Cañete de las Torres, Córdoba Province
Alcadozo, Cenizate and Zulema, Albacete Province
Mazcuerras, Cantabria
Paterna del Campo, Huelva Province
Cañada Juncosa, Cuenca Province
Santa María del Páramo, León Province
Huétor-Tájar , Granada Province
La Lastrilla, Segovia Province
Villasequilla, ToledoProvince
Torreorgaz, Cáceres Province
and, of course, in the town of San Isidro, Almería Province.
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Chao amig@s,
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Carloz

A Holy Week Confession / Una Confesión de Semana Santa

What's the confession? Simply that I find Spain's Semana Santa observances really boring.

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Well, having the week off I find interesting, but the Semana Santa celebrations held throughout Spain are sooooooooooo boring. The first time I saw one of the traditional processions, I initially found the phenomenon rather interesting. After the first hour or so, however, my mind started wandering -- and wondering what the big deal was about. I ended up feeling like I was at a slow motion, humorless Mardi Gras parade on downers.

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Despite the history, the color, the pageantry, the crowds, and the obvious effort put into the events by the organizing groups (called brotherhoods and fraternities / hermandades y cofradías), these are simply people traipsing about in somewhat frightening looking “penitential robes” (think KKK), carrying enormous religious tableaus (similar to those that can be seen in many Roman Catholic churches) and marching methodically to mind-numbing dirges. You almost expect to see self-flagellating footsloggers somwhere in all the fanfare. What fun!

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Maybe "ominously boring" would be a good way of describing such depressing extravaganzas. To me it's sort of like a bad dream that keeps repeating -- here comes another group of hooded men laboring under another massive platform that holds another brightly painted Sacred Heart / Virgin Mary / Crucifixion / Martyred Saint sculpture, followed by another group of robed acolytes, followed by another group of candle-carrying women in black, followed by another group of hooded men laboring under another massive platform that holds another brightly painted Sacred Heart / Virgin Mary / Crucifixion / Martyred Saint sculpture, followed by another group of robed acolytes, followed by another group of candle-carrying women in black, followed by another group of hooded men... All to the accompaniment of incessant drumming, mournful wailing, and/or brass instruments slowly blaring funereal hymns.

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I find Barcelona a good place to spend this holiday week because there are not very many Semana Santa spectacles, and, therefore they are easy to avoid. In many other cities, especially in Andalusia, they seem to almost completely take over the streets. I speak from some experience, because despite my negative reaction to that first Semana Santa scene, I have given it a try in various Spanish cities, including Alicante, Granada, Malaga and Palma de Majorca.

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Being in Palma was similar to being in Barcelona (i.e., no problems skipping the realtively few parades), so I enjoyed every bit of my time there. While I loved the cities of Alicante and Malaga, I did so despite visiting during Semana Santa. Alicante didn't have as many parades as Malaga and in both places I could at least head to the beach for a little respite when there were "festivities" droning on. In landlocked Granada, however, I was more or less trapped. Indeed, I remember feeling almost hounded by the city's seemingly non-stop processions!
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Instead of the memory of that experience fading, it has actually expanded to include fantastic images of myself being pursued by penitents down Granada's ancient streets, which in my mind seem to wind around in an Escher-like labyrinth. I try to get away from them and turn one corner after another only to keep stumbling upon more giant icons looming above throngs of mesmerized people wearing tunics, hoods and masks. As I am pushed and shoved around I sense that the participants are all trying to absorb me into the crowd so that I will be converted into one of the hordes of zombies condemned to an eternity of watching the monotonous marches go...by...so...very...very...slowly.

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(George A. Romero could have a field day with this “false memory” of mine – not to mention Freud!)
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So, having experienced traditional Semana Santa events in the past, when this time of year rolls around I flatly refuse to go to places like Seville and Cadiz, which are supposed to have some of the "best" celebrations. No, I prefer to be on a beach somewhere in Catalonia.
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Hasta siempre amig@s,
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Carloz

From modern Barcelona to an ancient Iberian village (Pueblo Iberico) Part 2

Walking uphill on Puig Castellar Ave. soon brings you to the neighborhood public market, Singuerlin, which takes it's name from the barrio. Although it is in a rather uninteresting modern building, it still boasts the usual vendors of fresh fish, meat, cheese, fruit, vegetables, nuts, bread, etc. Indeed, it's a good place to pick up items for a picnic in the wooded hills of the Serralada de Marina park above.

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Turn left at the market on Singuerlin Street and then take a right on Catalunya Ave. to continue the steep walk through the neighborhood of apartment buildings and single family dwellings -- some ugly, some attractive, some plain. When you reach the end of Catalunya Ave. at Primavera Ave, take a left and walk until it ends at Ausias Marc Street, where you take a right until this little street ends at the intersection of Dante and Roger de Flors. Look to the left for the stairway built into hillside, which goes up to Garcilaso de la Vega Street, where you turn right. Up ahead is a little circle with a city bus shelter, but take a right on the street right before the circle -- Marcelli Calvet street. Just a few meters ahead there is a water fountain and a bench that mark the end of this little street and the beginning of one of several nature trails in the park: Torrent de Les Bruixes. (Click here for a photo taken at last October's celebration of the 20th anniversary of the trail's restoration.)

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The path winds it's way up the hill, with markers pointing out the variety of flora and fauna native to the area. After about 30 minutes there is a wide dirt road that cuts across the trail. Here you have the choice of crossing and continuing directly up to the Iberian Village at the top of the hill, or of turning right and walking along the gradually rising road. The trail gets pretty steep from this point on, so unless you're prepared for a rather sturdy hike, take the road and follow the signs to Poblat Iberic Puig Castellar. (Although, you may want to take a short side trip to the medieval Ermita de Sant Climent that is about a 2o minute walk to the east. If so, just follow the signs there.)

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After about another 15 minutes, you reach the entrance to the little park that holds the archaeological excavation of the Iberian Village of Puig Castellar. At the base of the excavation site a nice little area has been developed, including stone benches and a wooden deck that stretches out from the hill. This is an excellent spot for taking in the magnificent views of the Besos river, Santa Coloma de Gramenet, Badalona, Barcelona, and, of course the Mediterranean.

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Once you walk through the gate and onto the grounds, there are several signs in Catalan, Spanish and English that cover the history of the indigenous Iberian people, outline the fortified village that was located here some 2,500 years ago, mention the archaeological discoveries made at the beginning of the 20th century and describe the preservation of the site. For example, the signs let visitors know that the remains of the village were discovered by Ferran de Segarra in 1902 and that relics from the bed are preserved in the Museum of Archeology of Catalonia in Barcelona and at the Torre Balldovina Museum in Santa Coloma de Gramenet.

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After reading about the site, head up to the crest of the hill for a walk through the ruins. Signs in Catalan point out the remains of defensive constructions, a water system and the grid of streets, among other things. Structurally the village had an elliptical form, consisting of three longitudinal streets with lined with several structures. It is estimated that more than 200 people lived there. The village economy was based on agriculture, animal husbandry, metallurgy, textiles and trade.

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The lower section of the town was defended by a wall of stone and clay, the remains of which are easy to spot. The dwellings, which date from the 4th and 2nd centuries BC, were small -- only one or two rooms -- and were built of granite and slate, with roofs believed to have been made of branches and mud. One has been re-built, so that visitors can look inside for a glimpse of what life around the hearth must have been like.

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At the very top of the hill is a very simple little belvedere-like shelter for sitting and absorbing the surroundings, from the ancient at your feet, to the modern kilometers below.

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Chao amig@s,

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Carloz

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P.S. The Serralada de Marina park website has a nice little walking itinerary laid out from the Balldovina Museum (which is near the center of Santa Caloma de Gramenet) to Puig Castellar.

From modern Barcelona to an ancient Iberian village (Pueblo Iberico) - Part 1

Another of my other favorite day trips out of the city is to the archaeological remains of an ancient Iberian village, today called Puig Castellar, which sits atop Turó del Pollo, a hill overlooking one of Barcelona's neighboring cities: Santa Coloma de Gramenet.

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By simply hopping on the metro and taking a nice walking out of Santa Coloma towards the hills, within a couple of hours you can be walking around the ruins of a 4th Century BC village and taking in magnificent views of the Mediterranean, Santa Coloma, Badalona and Barcelona. Here's the first part of the route:

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An appropriate starting point is Barcelona's Plaza Urquinaona, since it lies at the foot of Via Laietana, the street that takes its name from the ancient Iberian people who inhabited this region thousands of years ago. From here take the Red line of the Metro to the Santa Coloma de Gramenet station. Take the Plaça Vila exit and you will be at the foot of one of the city's main squares, which holds the city hall building. (See photo above.) While none of the sidewalk cafes here are outstanding, most can be counted on to provide pleasant tapas, simple sandwiches and such. I suggest sitting here for a while to soak up the atmosphere and rest up before the next phase of the journey, which involves a walk through narrow neighborhood streets to a broad avenue several blocks away.
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Next head north along quaint little Sant Carles Street, which runs along the west side of the plaza. On this quiet street you can find a tiny art museum, a small park (which holds another sidewalk cafe) a Japanese/Chinese restaurant that seems to be pretty popular (although I've never tried it myself), a little bread shop and many typical residences. Sant Carles ends at Sant Jeroni Street, where you turn to your right, then take an immediate left to go down one block onto Dr. Ferran Street. This street will take you to Pallaresa Avenue, which has a good selection of sidewalk cafes and restaurants lining the southeast side. The avenue itself is so wide that a public park stretches out in between its lanes.

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Named Europa Park, this urban space opened in 1992, the year of the Barcelona Olympics. Extending from the Besos River to the hillsides, it consists of more than 59,000 square meters of greenery, walkways, sport zones and playgrounds. It's a place where people stroll, lie on the grass, do a little exercise or sit on a bench while enjoying the quiet that results from having contained the highway that runs through the neighborhood underground, rather than above ground. There are also some interesting sculptures in the park, including Olympia, a jumble of straight and curvilinear iron pieces, by a Swiss artist named Paul Suter.
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Eventually, you need to head over to the other side of the avenue, where Dr. Ferran Street becomes Puig Castellar Avenue, to begin the uphill walk into the neighborhood below Puig Castellar and the surrounding hills. But this is where I will leave you now and take up again in Part II of my description of this day trip.
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Hasta entonces amig@s,
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Carloz

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

If you haven't been yet, go! If you have, then you know why I say this.
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The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao provided me with one of the best museum experiences I have ever had -- and art museums are not my favorite types of museums. I usually prefer history museums. However, this art museum is fascinating on so many different levels, that I think it would appeal to almost everyone. Words like light, joy, curiosity, wonder, fun, dynamic, fresh, imagination, inspiration, relaxation, meditation and activity come to mind when remembering the full day I spent there. Indeed, I arrived just after the 10am opening and stayed until it closed at 8pm.
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Of course, the museum building and the site itself are a true wonder of a work of art. It is well worth taking the time to use the audio guide provided for a tour of the grounds and interior of the "titanium icon," which both echos and compliments the Guggenheim Museum building in New York City. Nestled between Bilbao's Nervión River and its Moyúa neighborhood, the limestone, glass and titanium structure billows out like a series of giant sails caught in the wind.
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On the riverside is a curving walkway that winds around fountains and works of art, such as Louise Bourgeois' Maman (French for "Mama"), a giant spider cast from of bronze, stainless steel and marble. Just past Maman, the building stretches beneath the modern Puente de la Salve bridge that spans the river. Then the museum shoots up a limestone tower-like facade on the opposite side of the bridge. To commemorate the 10th anniversary of the Bilbao Guggenheim, a Red Arch designed by Daniel Buren was added to the bridge in 2007. It is well worth the walk up the stairs set into the tower to see the views of the museum, the bridge, the river and the city.

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On the side of the building facing Iparraguire Street, visitors are welcomed to the museum's entry plaza by another artistic beast: Jeff Koons' 40 meter tall Puppy, a giant flower sculpture constructed of a steel frame covered by 6500 kilos of earth and 40,000 plants. (On a stroll around the museum area a few nights later, I saw a frisky little cat playing with some of the flowers at Puppy's base.)
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Inside the building there is a bright reception area with friendly people prepared to greet visitors in English, Spanish or Basque -- and probably a few other languages, as well. After paying the 10.50 euro entrance fee, a hand-held audio guide device is provided, with a choice of several languages.
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The next room is the atrium, which is warm and welcoming, despite it's size. Measuring 650 square meters, it rises 50 meters to the skylight above, and has a glass curtain looking out towards the river on one side. On the other sides it is encased in limestone and includes a couple of glass elevators and an open air stairwell. (For those who don't like heights, there are also an enclosed stairwell and an enclosed elevator.)
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On the day I visited, we were greeted by Juan Pérez Agirregoikoa's large cream colored fabric panel dangling down from the floor above, with the following question painted on it in red and black letters: "¿Habeis cedido a vuestro deseo?" ("Have you all given into your desires?)
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Just outside the atrium is a large terrace, covered by a limestone canopy supported by a central column. The terrace looks over a shallow pond installed next to the river. The terrace holds Jeff Koons' Tulips, while the pond sports two water-art-works: Fire Fountain by Yves Klein and Fog Sculpture # 08025 by Fujiko Nakaya.
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Back inside the building, the exhibition spaces extend out and up from the atrium. There were two exhibitions when I was there:

• Art in the USA: 300 Years of Innovation, which surveyed the history of the country's visual arts through approximately 200 works of art filling the galleries on the first and second floors floors of the building, and


• Chacun à son goût (Each to their own taste), a selection of works by 12 artists who were Basque by either origin or residency. These were displayed in the exhibition spaces on the third floor.

I enjoyed both exhibitions -- almost as much as the building itself! Art in the USA will run until April 27, 2008; Chacun à son goût until February 3, 2008.
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Chao amig@s,
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P.S. The Guggenheim Bilbao web site offers a great virtual tour.

New Year's Day in Getxo

I haven't got much time, but I wanted to post something on the first day of 2008. So, I'll write a little about the place where I spent this cool, sunny day.
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Getxo is a beach town within the greater metropolitan area of Bilbao. It is located at the mouth of the Nervion river, just inland from the Bay of Biscay. It offers great views of the bay, especially towards the north.
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One such area is La Galea, which is where this post's photo was taken. This cliff top spot has a little park next to the abandoned fort and lighthouse that give the place its name. Aside from a sign reading "La Fortaleza La Galea" (Galea Fort), there was no other information posted about the fort, but it seemed to me to be at least a couple of hundred years old. It's a great spot for picnicking -- and I say that from experience.

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Other sites I enjoyed in Getxo included several stunning 19th century mansions, some lovely parks, a series of relaxing water-side walkways, a hill-side elevator that provides a nice view of the river and bay, and the 1893 "transporter bridge". This contraption is also known as a "ferry bridge," because it is sort of a combination of the two, that carries cars across the river in a gondola. What a great ride!
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Hasta luego amig@s,
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Carloz

An Introduction to the Barcelona City History Museum

For only 5 euros it is possible to visit the excellent Barcelona City History Museum (Museo de la Historia de la Ciudad / Museu d'Història de la Ciutat). In fact, the museum is actually six different museums, which makes the admission price an incredible bargain -- less than a euro a museum! The six museums that the one ticket admits you to are:

1. The Monumental Ensemble of King's Plaza (Conjunto Monumental de La Plaza del Rey / Conjunt Monumental de la Plaça del Rei), located in the Gothic quarter at the corner of Pl. del Rei and c/ del Verguer.

2. The Saint Catherine Archaeologiacal Interpretation Site (Espacio Arqueológico de Interpretación de Santa Caterina / Espai Arqueològic d'Interpretació de Santa Caterina), located in the Saint Catherine Public Market on Pl. Joan Capri, which is just a few blocks from Pl. del Rei.

3. Air Raid Shelter 307 - Historical Interpretation Center (Refugio Antiaéreo 307 - Centro de Interpretación Historico / Refugi Antiaeri 307 - Centre d'Interpretación Històrica), dating from the Spanish Civil War and located at Nou de las Ramblas 169 at the base of Montjuic Hill.

4. The Park Güell Interpretation Center (Centro de Interpretación del Parque Güell / Cebtre d'Interpretacío del Park Güell), located in a pavilion at the entrance to the Gaudí designed Park Güell on c/ Olot.

5. Museum-Monastery of Pedralbes (Museo-Monasterio de Pedralbes / Museu-Monestir de Pedralbes), located at Baixada del Monestir 9, in the Northwestern corner of the city.

6. The Verdaguer Museum-House (Museo-Casa Verdaguer / Museu-Casa Verdaguer), located at Carreterra de l'Església 104 in the Collserola Natural Woodland Park in the hills in the North of the city.

The museum was established in 1943. Originally it consisted mostly of the archaeological site at Pl. del Rei and a collection of items that had been displayed at the 1929 World's Fair City of Barcelona Pavilion. Over the years its collection has increased through donations, bequests, acquisitions and discoveries from various archaeological excavations. Today the collection is so large that it cannot be shown in its entirety. It is made up of items dating from from the Neolithic age to today and includes:

• gold and silver work, stone objects, glass objects, stone and marble sculptures, coins, buttons, medals, objects from trade guilds, cloth, fans, sculptures, carvings, educational objects, models, tools, weapons, municipal symbols, measuring devices, architectural material, furniture, small decorative and commemorative objects, etc. ;
• pottery (bowls, oil containers, jars, water jugs, pitchers, amphorae, etc.);
• Roman portraits, mosaics, tombstones, milestones, etc., mainly from excavations carried out in the Roman city walls;
• Roman and Hebrew epigraphs;
• Gothic altarpieces, paintings, wall-paintings, drawings, engravings, etc.
• books, documents, letters, etc., written in languages such as Latin, Hebrew, Arabic, Spanish and Catalan;

In the coming months, I will write posts about the museums in this amazing system that I have had the pleasure of visiting.

Hasta entonces amig@s,

Carloz

Mercy, mercy me, it's La Merce!

Today has been another public holiday in Barcelona. The last one was September 11th, which is sort of "Catalonia Day" and is called the Diada. Today, September 24th, is a holiday in the city of Barcelona, not in all of Catalonia nor anywhere else in Spain. It's called "La Mercè" which means The Mercy and which refers to Our Lady of Mercy. It's Barcelona's "Fiesta Mayor" or "Main Festival."
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Every city, town and village in Spain has a "fiesta mayor" and many were originally based on saints and such. In big cities, in addition to the official ones which are public holidays, every neighborhood has it's own little "fiesta mayor" which, while not official holidays, involve such things as parades, street parties, communal meals, concerts, carnivals for children, etc. I suppose one of the reasons for these little fiestas is that many big city neighborhoods were once separate towns. Anyway, just about every week in Barcelona there is a neighborhood "fiesta mayor" somewhere. But La Merce is the whopper of 'em all.
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Nearly every corner of the city has had something going on this weekend, including parades, firework displays, food tents, arts and crafts booths, outdoor concerts, etc. I just came in from the final parade of day, the Parade of the Giants. The giants, known as "gigantes y cabezudos" in Spanish, are made of paper mache and are worn like a costume by marhers. Cartoonish and imposing at the same time, they are representative of Kings, Queens, Pirates, Fishmongers, Laborers, Dragons and more. There was one of a woman with a breast exposed who was holding a platter with a stingray on it. I couldn't quite figure that one out. There was also a pair of giants dressed like a priest and a showgirl that seemed to resemble Prime Minister Zapatero and his wife. Hmmmm.

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One of my favorite parts of the close of the festivities is the ability to walk in the middle of Via Laietana at dusk with hundreds of other people. This street, normally full of vehicular traffic, is converted into a pedestrian walkway after the parade. Walking in the middle of it allows for a different perspective of the architecture.
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On my way home tonight I also walked through the street carnival that has been set up near the Barceloneta Yacht Basin. To be honest I had one thing in mind -- to buy fresh, hot, sugar-coated churros! My objective was easily reached, so now I will say goodbye and enjoy the treat. (OK, OK... I admit I ate a few before I got home. However, more await!)
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Chao amig@s,
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Carloz

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P.S. I was inspired this weekend to translate/adapt the articles about La Merce that appear in the Spanish and Catalan versions of Wikipedia for the English version, since it had contained nothing about the holiday previously. If you want to read about its history, click the following link: La Merce on Wiki.

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P.S. The photo above is from Larry&Flo's postings on Flickr. For more great photos of the event visit their pages.

From the seaside to the hillside - Part 3 (Vallvidrera)

In my opinion, Vallvidrera, which is perched on the crest of the Collserola hills above Barcelona, is one of the city's loveliest neighborhoods. To get there, I usually take the FGC from Plaza Cataluña. (FGC stands for Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya, which is the name of the Catalonian government railway system. Within the city, FGC trains run underground, but outside the city they climb out into the light. Barcelona's transportation system is completely integrated as far as fares and tickets go. So, a pass for the metro is also a pass for the FGC.)
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Directly in front of Café Zurich are two entrances to the underground Metro and FGC stations. From either of these two entrances one can enter the FGC station. To get to Vallvidrera take any FGC train except the one to Av. Tibidabo. There are television screens throughout the station indicating when and from which track the next train leaves. Since there are trains leaving every few minutes, it's usually possible to hop on a train immediately. I've never had to wait more than about 5 minutes.
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After a short ride, it is necessary to get off the train at the Peu del Funicular station and transfer to the modern little funicular that goes up to Vallvidrera. This funicular station is located in an area known as Lower Vallvidrera (Vallvidrera Inferior). The transfer is easy and fast at this little open-air station; and the ride up the hill, in metal and glass cable cars manufactured in Switzerland, offers some excellent views of the city and sea below. The best views are from the seats in the back of the car.
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The funicular's hours are 4:30am to 12:15am weekdays and 5:30am to 12:45am weekends and public holidays. Cars run every 6 minutes on weekdays and every 10 to 15 minutes on weekends and public holidays.
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Although one wouldn't know it from the sleekly contemporary appearance of the Peu de Funicular station and cable cars, this line has been in operation since 1906, when the rail line was extended from Sarrià to Lower Vallvidrera. It wasn't until 1998 that the funicular was converted into the totally automated system it is today.
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There is only one stop between Lower and Upper Vallvidrera: the tiny Carretera de las Aguas (Water Road) station. At this stop it is common to see hikers and bicyclers getting out. However, I usually prefer to ride to the top and then walk down to the Carretera.
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Next comes Upper Vallvidrera and a fantastic remnant of the 1906 line -- the modernist art nouveau Vallvidrera Superior station. Walking around this little jewel of a station, with its voluptuously curved windows and entrance, is like stepping back in time to the era of Gaudi. Constructed in 1905, the station was designed by the architect Bonaventura Conill i Montobbio, who who designed a good number of the buildings in Vallvidrera. Make sure to visit the viewing platform at the back of the station's lobby.
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From here it is possible to take a city minibus (line 111) to the top of Mount Tibidabo, where a large church sits on top of an amusement park overlooking the city. Since Vallvidrera is actually surrounded by the protected Collserola Natural Park, it is also a great place to start off for a hike in the woody hills. Before doing anything else, however, get to know this quaint little neighborhood a bit.
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The earliest known reference to Vallvidrera appeared in 987, in a document referring to the church of Santa Maria de Vallvidrera and a Gothic style church by that name was built between 1540 and 1587, and is located in what today is the park of Collserola. In the 14th century the "parish" became a "civil jurisdiction." In 1892, what was then the town of Vallvidrera was annexed by the town of Sarrià, which was then annexed by Barcelona in 1921.
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Despite this long history, major urban development didn't begin in Vallvidrera until the second half of the 19th century, when the characteristics of the area a¡changed from that of a village to a location for summer homes of the increasingly prosperous citizens of Barcelona. A "modern" road was not built to link it with the city until 1888, when the Vallvidrera to Tibidabo roadway was constructed. In 1901 a tram was inaugurated to link Barcelona, Tibidabo and Vallvidrera. In 1906 the funicular connected the area with Sarria. At this time Vallvidrera became a popular summer residence for wealthy Barcelonans. Today it is a handsome residential neighborhood with the characteristics of a small, prosperous town.
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Directly across from the funicular station is Plaza Pep Ventura. Walking around the little square and the streets surrounding it, one is surrounded by superb views. Walk to one side of the plaza and gaze over the tiled roofs of lovely little houses out onto the green valley below and the Montserrat massif looming in the west. Most of the houses date to the early 1900s, as can be observed by the years inscriptions on the gables. (One house even has a Catalan poem inscribed on it!)
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Head to the the east along C/ de Queralt, which changes from a street to a series of pedestrian steps. Look between the houses to the left for some great vies of the city. At the foot of the steps you will find the main square of the neighborhood, Plaza de Vallvidrera. Stop in at for a coffee and a sandwich at Bar Josean, which has a back sitting room with an incredible view of Barcelona and the Mediterranean. Nearby, the Can Trampa restaurant doesn't offer much of a view but is a good little spot for lunch or dinner. The plaza also hosts a modernist style wine and cheese shop, as well as a bread shop and a convenience store. One block to the north is the Mercado del Vallvidrera at C/ dels Reis Catolics 2, which sadly is set to close.
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Walk back to Pl. Pep Ventura along C/ de les Alberes for more fantastic views of the valley leading to Montserrat. Once back at the Plaza, walk up the "street" stairs of C/ dels Algarves. More lovely houses, this time a mix of old and new, will lead you to the Hotel Vallvidrera, dating from the 1900s. Today it is a well maintained senior citizens' residence. It is easy to imagine what the place must have looked lime in its heyday.
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At this point C/ dels Algarves rejoins C/ de les Alberes. Continue east along Alberes a bit and on the right you will find a steep "stair street" called Escales del Font del Mont carved into the side of the hill. This is one of the ways to reach the Carretera de la Aguas (Water Road) below. At the bottom of the stairs take a right on Torrent de la font del Mont and walk down until it ends at the Carretera de las Aguas. Once you reach this gravel road, head to the left and walk for about 10 minutes to find yourself in a peaceful wooded area overlooking the panorama of the city and the sea. Breathe in the fresh air, have a seat on one of the benches built alongside the road, walk through the trees above the road -- in other words, relax.
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When you are ready to return to the buzz of the city below, head back in the direction you came, and after about a 5 minute walk beyond the entrance to Torrent de la Font del Mont, where you entered the road, you will find the Carretera de las Aguas (Water Road) funicular station. On the ride down you can enjoy one more glimpse of Barcelona stretching from the hillside to the seaside.
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Carloz

From the seaside to the hillside - Part 2 (Plaza Cataluña)

Once at Plaza Urquinaona, the center of Barcelona, Plaza Cataluña, is only a block away. And it is from here that the trip from the seaside to the hillside continues.

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Plaza Cataluña (or Plaça Catalunya in Catalan; Catalonia Square in English) covers 50,000 square meters (162,500 square feet) and dates from the end of the 19th century, when the medieval wall surrounding the old city was torn down. Since then it has been the site of everything from a circus at the turn of the century, to gun battles during the Spanish civil war, to political gatherings during the democratic transition, to crowds of tourists in recent years. Along with people from all over the world, it is usually packed with pigeons, sight seeing buses, city buses and taxis. There are also plenty of motor scooters and bicycles parked all around the square. During Barcelona's many fiestas there are often live musical performances held in the plaza, with the square jam packed with revelers. Unfortunately, purse snatchers and pick pockets are often around also.

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People walk through or sit on one of the many benches in and around the square or even lie down on the grass under the fountain and sunbathe! There are only about four sidewalk cafes / restaurants (e.g., Cafe Zurich, Cafe Catalunya, Hard Rock Cafe's terrace and Farggi Ice Cream) and none of them would I recommend for much besides the people watching.

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However, I understand that before the civil war Plaza Cataluña was quite a hotbed of theater and cafe life. No theaters have survived and the only cafe that remains from those days is the Cafe Zurich. It is still a popular meeting spot, but don't go there hoping to glimpse a bit of history, as it has been completely rebuilt to suit the El Triangle shopping center that was built around it.

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For a great aerial view of the plaza, go to the restaurant at the top of El Corte Inglés department store. Food and drinks are not too pricey and if you manage to get a window seat the views are unequaled.

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There is a large ceramic star embedded in the center of the square, which is supposed to mark the center of Barcelona. There is also a large water fountain, some neo-classical sculptures and the ugly, indeed almost scary-looking, monument to former regional president Francesc Macia. (The top of this sculpture looks like it might topple over onto the bust of Macia at any moment. The creator of this modern monstrosity is Subirachs.)

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Sitting in the reflecting pool behind the monument is a statue with an interesting history. It is “La Diosa” (La Deessa in Catalan, The Goddess in English), which was sculpted by Josep Clara (1878-1958) between 1908 and 1910. It depicts a nude woman bathing herself. In the early 20th century it was deemed obscene by the then dictator Primo de Rivera and therefore was removed during his rule. (I'm sure he must be spinning in his grave at how much Spain has changed -- now real women and men bathe nude at beaches!)

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In the plaza there is also an attractive little statue by Pablo Gargallo (1881-1934) -- El Pastor de La Flauta (Shepherd with Flute). This is actually a reproduction of the original, which stood here from 1927 to 1986. The original is now in the Pablo Gargallo museum in Zaragoza to protect it from environmental damage.

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Another statue overlooks the square from on high, this one from the face of the building at number 21. (The Hard Rock Cafe is in the same building.) I do not know the history of this statue, but like to think of him as the legendary medieval knight Roland. (Rolando in Spanish, Rotllà in Catalan.) Roland's legend, so significant throughout Europe that most cities have a statue of him, is given a unique twist in Cataluña, where he is often portrayed as a giant in local fiestas.

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Some of the more notable architecture includes the Banco Español de Credito from 1941, the Telefonica building, from 1928, and the Banco de España building from 1948. Walk along the Northeastern side of this building and you can look up to find a guardian angel looking down on you. Sculpted by Madrid artist Angel Ferrant y Vazquez (1890-1961), it commemorates the legend that an angel appeared to Saint Vincent Ferrer (1350-1419) as he stood near this spot outside one of the ancient city gates and reassured him that Barcelona would always be protected by God.

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While you're there, you must stop in next door at one of the best -- and best priced -- ice cream parlors / sweet shops in town, Planelles - Donat. Aside from incredibly delicious ice cream, shakes, chilled drinks and hot drinks, this gourmet shop, which has been in business since the end of the 19th century, also makes and sells its own brand of two very popular Spanish treats -- horchata and turrón. Horchata is a creamy cold drink made from tiger nuts. Turrón is a chunky candy bar filled with nougat and nuts.

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Back at Plaza Cataluña, two of the most prominent edifices are modern buildings -- the El Triangle shopping center and the large El Corte Inglés department store. El Triangle houses various stores, including the large FNAC book/music/electronics store and the aforementioned Zurich Cafe. El Corte Inglés is similar to Macy's, except that like other European department stores, it has a supermarket in the basement. Since it bought out the Spanish division of Marks and Spencer, El Corte Inglés is just about the only department store chain in Spain.

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Protruding from the stark Southeastern side of El Corte Inglés is the ornate remnant of a window from the building that once stood there. The intricate facade depicts several women playing musical instruments, including a drum, an accordion and a flute. I suppose it was just to pretty to demolish along with the rest of the building and, so, it hangs there, "en memoriam."

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To me, the most captivating structure on the square is the one I have not been able to discover much about: the Catalana Occidental Insurance building on the corner of Paseo de Gracia and Ronda San Pedro. This castle like structure dates from the end of the 19th century and today houses offices and apartments. I have learned that it was financed by banker and politician Manuel Girona Agrafel (1818-1905) and was originally called "La Sud America." (If anyone knows anything about the history of this building, please leave a comment.)

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Several important commercial streets converge on Plaza Cataluña: Rambla Cataluña, Las Ramblas, Paseo de Gracia, Puerta del Angel, Ronda San Pedro, Ronda Universidad and Calle Pelayo. (In Catalan, these are all: Rambla Catalunya, Las Ramblas, Passeig de Gracia, Portal de l'Angel, Ronda Sant Pere, Ronda Universitat and Carrer Pelai.) All of these streets make the area a shopper's paradise.

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In addition, there is a lot of life under the plaza, including the main City of Barcelona Tourist Information Center, two metro lines (the Green and Red lines), a Spanish rail (Renfe) station, a Catalan rail (Ferrocarril) station and a few little cafes, shops and newsstands accompanying them.

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To get to our hillside destination, we will head under Plaza Catalunya to take the Ferrocarril. More to come in Part 3.

From the seaside to the hillside - Part 1 (Via Laietana)

Some of my favorite routes to follow in Barcelona extend from the seafront, where I live, to the hills that surround the city. There are several to choose from, but today I will write about the beginning of a journey I regularly take, and in fact took this past weekend, with a friend: from Barceloneta up to the hills and back.
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The first part of the journey goes from Barceloneta to Plaza Cataluña, and includes one of my favorite inner-city trajectories – traveling up Via Laietana. I initially started going this way to bypass the throngs of tourists that normally clog Las Ramblas. However, I quickly came to appreciate it for other reasons.
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Named after the Bronze age Laietani tribes that inhabited the region, Via Laietana is a straight road that was built in 1907 to cut through the old town and link the city's seaside with the growing neighborhood called the Extension (Ensanche in Spanish; Eixample in Catalan) dating from the latter half of the previous century.
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It is usually a very busy street, but with it's wide sidewalks, four lanes and proximity to so much history, it is a good one for a stroll or a bicycle ride. Via Laietnana is also anchored by two rather nice urban plazas: the airy Pl. Antonio Lopez at the end nearest the sea and the tree-lined Pl. Urquinaona near the city center.
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Pl. Antonio Lopez is across from what was once the city's port and is now a yacht basin. Here you will find the striking “Correos” building – Barcelona's main post office, which was erected in 1926/27. (On one side of this building is Que Bo, the great little sandwich shop I wrote of previously.)
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By simply walking around this square that stretches over two blocks, you can glimpse the medieval edges of the old town, structures from the 18th century, buildings from the years just before the Spanish civil war and one very bright spot from the late 20th century – Roy Liechtenstein's comic book colored “Barcelona Head” statue.
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On the other hand, Pl. Urquinaona is a more closed-in square with many shade trees, quite a few comfortable park benches and bordered by shops, cafes, restaurants as well as by multiple Metro station entrances. (The Metro station is also known as Urquinaona. The unusual sounding name is from an Andalusian who was bishop of Barcelona in the 1800s.)
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One of the interesting aspects of Via Laietana is its collection of early 20th century architecture -- mostly banks, government offices, guilds and other institutional buildings. The street offers a mix of styles: Art Nouveau / Modernist, Neo-Gothic, Rationalist, etc. This line up occasionally breaks open to reveal a little of Barcelona's Roman, Gothic and Medieval history just a few feet behind it.
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At least one pre-20th century building can be found on the avenue itself. This is “Casa de Veler” at number 50, which dates from 1758. Today it is the home of the Federación Nacional de Empresarios Textiles Sederos. (National Federation of Silk Textile Employers.)
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Right next to it, but not actually on Via Laietana, is the much more well known Palau de la Musica an incredible Art Nouveau structure dating from 1905. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a very popular tourist attraction and an actual concert hall.
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Back on Via Laietana, this time at number 80, you will find the impressive Caja de Pensiones building (pictured above), constructed in 1917. It looks rather cathedral-like, with it's white Neo-Gothic facade, but it is in fact home to Spain's most popular savings bank, La Caixa. A few other sites along the avenue include:

• Pl. Antoni Maura, located at about numbers 37 and 42, is where Av. De la Catedral and Av. Francesc Cambo face each other. Despite being called “Avenues” these are actually two very spacious plazas. Av de la Catedral is the square where Barcelona's Cathedral stands; whereas Av. Francesc Cambo is a square holding a colorful and recently renovated public market, Santa Caterina;


• Pl. Ramon Berenguer, at about number 29, has a recessed green area with a few benches tucked beneath a remnant of Barcelona's Roman wall;


• Pl. del Angel, at about number 25, borders an ancient little street named Llibreteria, which was at one time the road that connected Barcelona and Rome.

Really, there is tons more to see on, and around, Via Laietana, so it is a great place to invest time in. Aside from all the sites and activities, it is also such a wide open street that it is a good vantage point to observe that Barcelona rises from the sea to the hills. The breadth, width and incline of the avenue combine with the grand looking architecture to provide pleasing views during a walk or a bike ride – whether it's just passing through, as I do when I head out on one of my jaunts up the into the hills, or for a more leisurely look at the obvious and not so obvious treasures along the way.
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Well, I haven't gotten very far -- not even past the city center! -- but soon I'll tell you about the rest of one of my favorite routes to the hills.

Pollo asado / Rotisserie grilled chicken

I've written previously about buying a few samosas from one of my neighborhood Pakistani grocer's when I am not in the mood for cooking dinner. Well, that's when I am not hungry. When I am hungry, but too lazy to cook, I sometimes go to Churri's, a little take away place near my apartment. While its fare is very simple, I think it makes a good addition to the other low cost eating establishments I've written about. (For all posts on this subject, click here. For all FOOD related posts click here.)
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Churri is a term of endearment in Spanish, similar to dear, hun, sweetie... And the two motherly ladies who work there may say something along those lines when serving you.
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Not much bigger than a walk-in closet, Churri's selection ranges from lasagna to bocadillos, from buñelos de bacalo (codfish fritters) to hamburgers, but I've never tried anything other than their pollo asado con patatas. (Rotisserie grilled chicken with potatoes.) For only 4.50 you get half a grilled chicken with a generous portion of potato wedges cooked in the same grill. (A whole chicken costs double.) I either take it home or head the two blocks or so to the beach to eat al fresco y al lado del mar.
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Another good place for pollo asado is a restaurant named O Pollo. At 8.50 a plate, this place is pricier not only due to the fact that you get a drink with your meal, but also because you can eat inside the large glass walled dining room or out on the beach front terrace. And when I say beach front, I mean directly in front of the beach. Step off the terrace and you are standing in sand.
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Here the plates are real plates, not plastic, and there are a variety of "menus" to choose from for the same price. For example: rotisserie grilled chicken, potatoes and drink; rotisserie grilled chicken, green salad and drink; chicken curry, salad and drink; chicken burritos, salad and drink.
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The chicken at O Pollo is good, but not quite as tasty as Churri's. Ditto for the potatos, which are the the frozen type at O Pollo, but freshly cut ones at Churri's.
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O Pollo also offers gazpacho, appetizers (Japanese Style Chicken Wings, Yokitari Skewer, Patatas Bravas), a children's menu, items a la carte and dessert. The atmosphere is usually lively, with lots of people enjoying the view of the sea as well as the upbeat music that often pumps through the place.
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Every year the prices at O Pollo go up 1 euro or more. This past year the combination plate prices have gone up 1.5o, while at the same time the place began offering less: drink sizes have decreased; instead of ordering at the counter, taking a seat and waiting for staff to bring your meal to your table, now you must move from the an ordering line to a food pick-up line; no more full sized, thick paper napkins, but small, thin ones instead. Also, for some reason all of the former staff were let go. The previous employees were mainly Argentines and Brazilians and were soooo nice and friendly. The new staff seem OK, but are not nearly as friendly -- so far. Consequently, I find that this year I have been going there less frequently than in years past.
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Anyway, there you are - two more low cost places to eat in Barcelona. Neither as nice or delicious as the other places I've written about, but both satisfactory.
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Check the comments section for any updates.
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Chao amig@s,
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Carloz
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Locations:
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Churri's
C/ Almirall Cervera 21
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O Pollo
Paseo Maritimo 1, bajo (under the paseo, on the beach)
932 240 353

Globalization: The BBC pays Spanish speakers to speak Spanish in America

The British Broadcasting Corporations' BBC Mundo (the Spanish version of BBC World) has sent two bi-lingual Spanish-English speakers traveling across the USA speaking only Spanish. Reporter Jose Baig and video producer Carlos Ceresole are going from Florida to California over the next week days in a rented truck on a project called "¿Hablas español?" Their goal is, "to cross the country without uttering a word of English."
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Baig claims that, "there are a lot more Spanish speakers in the US than one tends to think. It's just a matter of asking: 'Do you speak Spanish?' "
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There are certainly a lot of Spanish speakers in the US, but it's still a relatively small minority of the entire population. Therefore, I think these guys will be severely tempted to fall back on their English at times, despite their having chosen a route along the frontier with Latin America, where the heaviest concentration of Spanish speaking immigrants and their descendants live.
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I wonder if they know they're following a route similar to Cabeza de Vaca's; although, he only made it from Florida to Arizona - and it took him eight years, instead of eight days! Regardless, Baig's and Ceresole's latter day version should be interesting, if rather rushed.
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Readers of Spanish can follow their progress via Baig's blog. If you are a Spanish speaker living in one of the places on their itinerary, they would like to hear from you and, who knows, maybe even do an interview. And they are interested in hearing from anyone who speaks Spanish, not just native-speakers. The cities and towns are:
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St. Augustine, FL (sorry, they were there yesterday);
Tallahassee, Fl;
Mobile, AL;
New Orleans, LA;
Houston, TX;
San Antonio, TX;
Pecos, TX;
El Paso, TX;
Nogales, AZ;
Yuma, AZ;
Los Angeles, CA.
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(There are four stops in Texas, yet they are totally ignoring New Mexico and completely bypassed Miami!)
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If you live in one of these locations (or know someone who does) and are interested in talking with the pair, go to this link, look for your location and click on the appropriate spot to send a message. The link also lists the date they will be in each place and a little about why they chose it.
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I've but my two cents in, here as well as by submitting a comment to their blog. Why don't you do something similar, here, there or on both?
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Chao amig@s,
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Carloz,
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P.S.
It's interesting that they use the familiar "tu" form in the project title. I wonder if they'll find that US Spanish speakers are more likely to use the formal "usted" form with strangers.
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P.P.S.
I wrote them that I wanted to do a similar trip across Spain, only speaking English. Do you think the BBC would take me up on a "Do you speak English" tour of España? If not, do any of you have any contacts at PBS or NPR? ;-)

¡Churros!

I weighed myself today and noticed that I'd lost two kilos since my last visit to the scale. Hmmm, I thought, what better way to celebrate than to go out and buy some crunchy, fattening churros! (Or in Catalan, xurros.) Sometimes I think the churro may be one of the main reasons I moved to Spain.

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I once heard churros described as Spain's answer to the doughnut. Nothing could be more untrue. From what I have been able to determine, the upstart doughnut was invented in 19th century America. Well, Spain has been around a bit longer than that and since Spanish settlers introduced churros to the new world, I think it's easy to see which fritter came first.

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The legend here is that centuries ago Spanish shepherds, who did not have ovens because of their nomadic ways, used open fires to fry the batter they made from wheat. Eventually creativity led to a sugar coated fried bread treat they called churros, because the shape resembled the horns of the churro-sheep they herded.

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Nowadays the typical Spanish churro is a slightly curved, star-shaped cylinder of dough that is fried until crunchy. They are served either with sugar sprinkled on top or covered with thick dark chocolate. I prefer the lightly sugar coated variety but many Spaniards are mad about the chocolate covered ones. It is also popular to dunk plain ones into a cup of hot chocolate so thick that it seems more like a melted chocolate bar than a drink.

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Churros can be purchased everywhere in Spain, from cafes at breakfast time to expensive restaurants that serve their own "nuevo" versions for dessert after dinner. They're even sold pre-cooked and frozen in supermarkets! There are also variations on the theme: churros rellenos ("stuffed churros" -- filled with chocolate or a cream of some sort), tejeringos (wheels about 10 cm in diameter that are sometimes served on a stick), porras (like churros, but thicker), etc., etc. etc.

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To me, however, there is nothing like the churros that come from one of the small street vendors, called churrerías, that sell freshly cooked ones. It's so nice to watch a churrero/a (churro-maker) in his/her crisp white apron fry up a batch right before your eyes, weigh out a portion for you, shake the hot little pastries into a cone shaped paper container, sprinkle a little sugar on top and then hand them over for a snack right there on the spot, while walking, while sitting on a bench or to take home.

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Although they seem in demand at just about any time of day or night, perhaps consumption peaks in the morning, either because the consumer has just gotten up and is ready to face a new day or is just going in after a long night's fiesta. I've savored them in both situations, as well as when a churro urge simply strikes, like it did this afternoon.

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If you are not in Spain or Latin America and want to try churros, here is a simple recipe:

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Ingredients

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1 cup of flour

1 cup of water

1 teaspoon of oil

1 teaspoon of olive oil

a dash of salt

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Directions

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Heat water, salt and olive oil to a boil. Add flour. Stir until it forms a batter. Let it cool and then place the batter on a flat surface. Shape the dough into cylinders. Drop them in hot oil and fry until crispy and golden.

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Serving suggestions:

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If you want your churros Spanish style, either sprinkle them with sugar, coat them in melted chocolate or serve them plain with a cup of thick hot chocolate to dunk in. To enjoy them the way Chileans do, cover them with powdered sugar. For Mexican style churros, dust them with cinnamon.

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I hope you get to enjoy some one day.

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Disfrutadlos amig@s,

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Carloz

Barceloneta Park (El Parque de la Barceloneta / El Parc de la Barceloneta)

The little sea front Barceloneta Park marks the transition from the old neighborhood of Barceloneta to a new one called Villa Olimpíca. It's a relatively new park located on a site that used to be home to Barcelona's gas company. In fact, a lovely old building that was once part of the complex still sits there, looking somewhat forlorn and abandoned on the park's western side. Towards the park's northeastern end there is a structure dating from 1905: a stone water tower designed by architect Josep Domenech i Estapa. On the eastern side stands a wrought iron circular stage, where musical events are often held.
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The park is laid out along three large areas: the first one extends from its city side at C/ Doctor Aiguader to its sea side at Paseo Maritimo; the second, begins with a direct access point from within the neighborhood of Barceloneta, near the old gas company building, that leads to large curved slopes of greenery with walkways running along them; the third area consists of an enclosed soccer field with an elevated street-wide ramp that was intended to be a foot bridge to Ciutadella Park. Instead, it just ends in mid-air!

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But the view from there is wonderful -- the soccer field and the whole of the park to the south; the medical complex to the east; Ciutadella Park to the north, with Mount Tibidabo in the background; and the gleaming glass high-rise that is the new gas company buliding to the west. The top of this ramp is a nice point to watch the sunset behind Mount Tibidabo, as I did earlier this evening.
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Oddly enough, Barceloneta Park is hardly ever crowded, no matter how packed the beach and the Paseo Maritimo directly in front of it seem to be. Therefore, most of the people who make use of the park are local residents. Aside from enjoying a picnic on the grass or a snooze on a bench, visitors can also have a coffee or drink at the nice little chiringuito with a sea view that is operated by the city's Parks and Gardens Department. If you like a little more activity, like most parks in Barcelona, this one has a children's play-ground, a few outdoor ping-pong tables, a basketball hoop, pitches to play a bowling-ball type game called "petanca" in Spanish and "botxe" in Catalan, as well as a doggy play-ground -- a fenced in area where dogs can run free.
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Other interesting aspects of the park include its unusual mix of pine and mimosa trees, the abundance of wild parakeets that make the park their home and the statue of Simon Bolivar looking like he's ready to head out to the sea. This last was a gift from the government of Venezuela and was unveiled by Spain's King Juan Carlos at the park's 1996 inauguration.
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Well, that's a bit about Barceloneta Park, a nice spot to have a little rest away from the crowd.
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I hope you get to enjoy it someday.
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Chao amig@s,
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Carloz

Next, Barceloneta's seaside

At the seaside end of Paseo Juan de Borbon / Passeig Joan de Borbo (or as I fondly refer to it, Paella Row) you will find a seafront plaza named Pl. del Mar. On the right of the plaza, the Paseo turns off into a semi-industrialized port area, the sea and beach are in front and on on the left is a pair of high rise apartment buildings -- which thankfully are few in Barceloneta. The ground floor of these 70s style towers houses a convenience store, two restaurants (Buenas Migas and KAiKU) and the Seapoint Youth Hostel, Barcelona's only hostel on the beach. Both of the restaurants and the cafe of the hostel offer food and drinks out on the plaza.

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Directly on the beach is Chiringuto del Sol, one of many "chiringuitos" you'll see in Barcelona. Chiringuitos are what Spaniards call the little beach bars/cafes that dot beaches throughout the country. Barcelona's are regulated by the city, even down to their uniform design: small wine colored rectangular bars with slat wood serving areas on one side.

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These places are popular! They sell coffee, drinks, sandwiches and such. There is always music, often supplied by a live DJ. Beach goers mix with beach watchers, locals chat with one another and visitors try to soak in the atmosphere while they can.

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Actually the chiringuito that you first see when you reach Pl. del Mar is not the first one on Barcelona's beach. That one is Chiringuito de Barcelona, located a bit to the right of the plaza. It is marks the edge of Barcelona's predominantly gay and lesbian beach, appropriately named Playa San Sebastian.

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Not much further beyond Chiringuito de Barcelona, Barcelona's beaches end - or, more accurately, they begin there. Therefore, one needs to veer to the left at Pl. del Mar to truly have a walk up Barcelona's coast. Heading that way there are soon two more chiringuitos on the beach side, Chiringuito Goa and Chiringuito Bar Playa 23.

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Meanwhile, on the inland side Barceloneta's residential streets jut out, often with a restaurant or two on their corners. Cal Pinxo is one of the best seafood and paella establishments around, with prices that reflect the fact. You can sit on their terrace or in one of their sea view dining rooms to enjoy the excellent cooking. Definitely worth it!

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Just up the walk a bit and on the lower end of the economic scale, but still within the tasty realm is a little place called Restaurante Venta Mancheca. This joint has no dining room, only a kitchen with a terrace. However, the paella and other items on offer are filling and very affordable.

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Two of the curiouser looking edifices around here are former boat repair centers that now function as an ice cream shop (Heladeria La Lechera) and a surf shop (Wind 220). These two hangar-like structures face the sea side by side and seem to beckon passers-by to have a look inside. I suggest doing so, even if you're not in the mood for a sundae or a wet-suit.

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Just after the Bar Playa 23 Chiringuito, pedestrians are faced with a choice of continuing along at the beach level or of heading up the elevated sea wall that is parallels the Paseo Maritimo / Passeig Maritm. Most people seem to choose to go up along the palm-tree lined walk overlooking the beach.

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At this point the sights on the inland side are not as interesting or attractive, but merely a series of public buildings from a few decades ago: a middle school, a community center, a kindergarten and an elementary school. Fortunately, they are behind the palm trees that run up and down the bicycle lane alongside the Paseo.

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However, the seaside view is always entertaining: people passing along the sidewalk beneath, sunbathers stretched out on the sand, volleyball players, swimmers and, of course, ships, sailboats and such coming and going. Every few meters there is a set of stairs leading down to the lower level, should you get the urge to join those below.

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After a short while there is a jetty on the beach with concrete seats in front of it. These seats are in the form of chaise lounge chairs and are great for relaxing on and gazing around. There is also a children's play site and a little public work-out area for doing leg-lifts, chin-ups, etc.

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On the inland side there is an oasis of green, the Parque de la Barceloneta, followed by the modern Hospital del Mar and then the beginning of the Puerto Olimpíco / Port Olimpíc area.

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However, I'll stop here for a rest and write more details about the park later.

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Chao amig@s,

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Carloz