Barcelona loves, loves, loves tourists - especially when times are hard!

Barcelona's El Periodico newspaper is reporting that in a recent survey of the city's residents, positive views of tourism are sky high, with  97% of locals seeing tourism as beneficial, 96% believing it brings in a great deal of money and 60% selecting it as the industry that most enriches the city.

This overwhelmingly positive view is more than understandable as the city continues to suffer from recession. Barcelona's position among international travelers has allowed the tourism sector to withstand the effects of Spain's economic crisis. In 2012 the city ranked fourth among European destinations in length of hotel stays, just behind London, Paris and Rome.

With tourism increasing 0.7% last year (7.44 million visitors in total), local people are apparently grateful that the sector's numbers continue to grow, even in these hard times. According to the newspaper, five years ago the view of tourism among Barcelonans was 16 points lower.

In an editorial, the paper concluded, "Barcelonans have rewarded the effort to shape tourism that is  balanced between their needs and those of the foreigners who visit and stay overnight in the Catalan capital. So finds a study published by the City Council which showed that among city residents there has been an increase in the view that tourism has a positive impact on their lives. Thus, the study discounts  those old local negative perceptions of the steadily increasing presence of tourists."

The city councilor responsible for tourism, Sonia Recasens, told El Periodico that the actual reason the perception of tourism has improved is due to the city government's efforts to soften the impact of such  large numbers of visitors on the city's citizens. She cited as examples the rearranging of parking spaces for the large numbers of tour buses around La Sagrada Familia and making the city center safer.

Meanwhile, President of Tourism Barcelona, ​​Joan Gaspart, simply said that tourism is a valuable asset to the city. He projected that the local government will benefit from a 34% take of the estimated 50 to 60 million euros that will be collected next year from the Catalan Region's tourist tax of up to 2.50€ per person per night, which started being added to hotel bills last November. He said that, among other things, this money will be used to better promote the city as a tourist destination.

Related post: Where do most tourists in Barcelona come from?

Where do most tourists in Barcelona come from?

Answer: the United States of America. In fact, the year 2012 consolidated the U.S.A. as a major client of Barcelona's tourist industry. Last year American tourists totaled 635,000, or 8.5% of all travelers.

The large number of  U.S. travelers has been attributed to the rise in the number of cruise ships docking in the city, with many Americans choosing to embark here, as well as more direct flights and promotional campaigns.
 
After the Americans came the British, the group that had the most significant growth (a 12% increase), while at third, fourth and fifth were the French, Italian and German. There was a dramatic increases from residents of Eastern European countries (Czech Republic, Russia and Poland), which jumped nearly 32% in one year, while visits from the rest of the world grew by a healthy 17.6%.

That last number resulted from visitors who came from many developing countries. Looking beyond the quantity of travelers to the qualitative effect of this group, credit card spending by Russians grew by a dramatic 55.7% last year, for a total of 146.7 million euros. Among Chinese tourists this spending leaped by 71.4%.

When it comes to Americans, there is the added bonus that this market is reportedly one of the most profitable for the city, in terms of the average amount of money they spend daily.

In 2012 the tourism sector rose 0.7% overall, with 7.44 million people visiting Barcelona, of which the majority were international visitors and 21.8% were from other parts of Spain. Visits by Spaniards decreased last year by 6.8%. 

Barcelona's position among international travelers has allowed the tourism industry to withstand the effects of Spain's economic crisis. In 2012 the city ranked fourth among European destinations in length of hotel stays, after London, Paris and Rome respectively.

Related post: Barcelona loves, loves, loves tourists - especially when times are hard!
 

Just in time for summer, Barcelona bans bikini wearers, shirtless men and nudists from its streets

Make sure to wear a shirt if you want to walk around in the stifling heat of Barcelona this summer, or you may pay dearly for it -- up to 300 euros!

Just in time for the tourist rush, the Spanish city known for its beaches and relaxed lifestyle has prohibited not only public nudity, but also the wearing of bathing suits away from swimming areas.

Beset by the hotelier and merchant lobby, who have protested for years that tourists walking around town with exposed torsos give Barcelona a bad image, the city council on Friday approved new legislation to prohibit and punish those who go down the street naked, bare-chested or in a bikini. The measure, which goes into effect next month, was approved just four weeks before municipal elections.

How the law will work

Complete nudity will only be allowed on Barcelona's officially recognized nude beach, Mar Bella, which is the only one in the city that has sand dunes, making it a somewhat secluded spot. Going shirtless or wearing swim-suits will be allowed only at pools, beaches and surrounding areas, such as the Paseo Maritimo stretching along the Mediterranean. Doing so anywhere else in the  city, including while strolling along the emblematic Las Ramblas boulevard or having refreshments at a sidewalk cafe, could result in a fine larger than the 200 euros one has to pay for running a red light: between 300 and 500 euros for going naked, and 120 to 300 for not wearing a shirt. In practice, local police will not fine transgressors immediately: nudes and semi-nudes alike will first receive a warning and an invitation to cover up. Fines will only be given to those who refuse to cooperate or who are caught again for the same violation.

Barcelona's police officers will probably easily recognize nudity when they see it, but how will they determine semi-nudity and its appropriateness? What is the difference between a woman wearing a bikini bathing suit and one wearing a pair of skimpy shorts with a bikini halter top? How far can a shirtless guy walk from the beach before being considered indecent? What happens if while a police officer is fining a bikini-wearing, shirtless couple who wander into a neighborhood near a beach, a sweaty construction worker without a shirt carries a heavy object out of building-site onto the street?

Barcelona on the cutting edge

While at least two other Spanish municipalities have passed legislation banning nudity, none have gone so far as to outlaw semi-nudity. In 2008 Alicante established fines ranging from 751 to 1500 euros for pubic nudity. The city of Las Palmas published an edict in 2004 stating that "nudity, when practiced in places of public transit, practiced en masse, or improperly, is no longer natural and becomes exhibitionism forced on others." Since there was apparently no fine or other punishment prescribed, I'm not sure how nude-free Las Palmas is today. But Barcelona's streets may soon be free of bikinis, swimming trunks and a few tourists.

Maybe next the city council will spend some time and money cracking down on another worrisome group of people who tend to freely wander Barcelona's streets, as well as its beaches: pick-pockets and purse-snatchers.

Cross posted on Newsvine.

Sources:
El destape urbano, non grato (Urban nudity, non grata) - La Razón (with video report)
No es un biquini, es un 'top' (It's not a bikini, it's a 'top') - El País

Saint George - dragon + roses + books = Saint George's Day!

Today is Saint George's Day in several parts of Spain (Aragon, Catalonia and Valencia), as well as in England and Portugal. (Saint George also has commemorative days in other countries and cities, including the Republic of Georgia, the Republic of Macedonia, Serbia, and the city of Moscow, but those observations are at different times of the year.)
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Here in Barcelona el Día de San Jorge (Spanish) / la Diada de Sant Jordi (Catalan) is a sort of Valentines-like celebration involving roses and books. Apparently roses have been associated with this day since medieval times, and it is believed that it was in the 15th century that the local tradition began of giving a rose your loved one on this date. A slightly newer tradition is that of giving a book along with the rose. Apparently in 1923 a Barcelona book publisher got the idea to combine the commemoration of the death of Saint George with that of two writers who also died on April 23rd -- Miguel Cervantes and William Shakespeare.
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Nowadays the book and rose are accompanied by a little Catalan flag (la senyera) and a wheat stem. The rose represents passion; the wheat, fertility; the flag, the patron saint of Catalonia -- Saint George! And the book -- well, one could say it represents intellect, but perhaps commerce would be equally accurate. Since Barcelona is the publishing capital of both the Catalan and Spanish languages, it is promoted very heavily by all publishing houses, as well as bookstores, libraries, schools and such. Indeed, it is probably the biggest day for book sales in Catalonia.
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Stalls are set up all over the city to sell books and roses to passers by. Bookstores and libraries host special events, including book signings. This year's hottest seller will probably be "El Juego del Ángel" (The Angel's Game), local writer Carlos Ruíz Zafón's prequel to "La Sombra del Viento," (The Shadow of the Wind) which was published in time to coincide with the festivities. As a matter of fact, he is in town to personally autograph copies.

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Of course there's also a special food tradition -- the Saint George's Day cake, designed to represent the Catalonian Flag. (See photo above.)
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This year's observance has an interesting twist since many Brits are in town to attend the Manchester United vs Barça soccer Champions League semi final at Camp Nou stadium. Thousands of them have been walking around waving red and white flags on a day that honors Catalonia's and England's patron saint.
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As a matter of fact, the city government was a little worried about the possibility of inebriated fans running loose all over the city, so a "ManUn fan village" has been set up in the Olympic Port near my house. Thousands of visitors spent the afternoon drinking and singing beside the marina, while local police quietly patrolled the area. I didn't see too many bookstalls around there.
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Happy Saint George's Day, amig@s,
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Carloz

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P.S. If you haven't read "The Shadow of the Wind", I highly recommend it. It's a good story set in post-civil war Barcelona. The new book, "El Juego del Ángel" (The Angel's Game), is being translated by Lucia Graves, poet Robert Graves' daughter, for publication in spring 2009. This prequel takes place in 1920s and 30s Barcelona.

Click here to see a few photos I took on Saint George's Day. 

Interesting results from Spanish surveys, studies, reports, etc.

GUESS WHICH WORLD LEADER SPANIARDS CONSIDER TO BE THE WORST. If you guessed US President George Bush, you were only off by two. Bush came in third to last, behind Cuban leader Fidel Castro in the pentultimate position, leaving Venezuela's President Hugo Chávez to reign as the international leader held in lowest esteem.
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This terrible trinity of the worst was the result of a poll of 12,000 Spaniards conducted by the Elcano Royal Institute (Real Instituto Elcano), a Spanish think-tank. The survey, which was carried out between November 26th and December 3rd, had Chávez finishing last in the popularity poll with a 1.4 ranking. Next came Castro at 1.9, Bush at 2.2, Nicaragua's Daniel Ortega at 2.9 and Russia's Vladimir Putin rounding out the bottom at 3.4. The most respected leaders were EU foreign policy chief Javier Solana, with a 6.2 rating, followed by former IMF director Rodrigo Rato with 6.1, German Chancellor Angela Merkel with 5.8, and French President Nicolas Sarkozy and UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon in a tie at 5.3.
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MOST SPANIARDS SUPPORT ZAPATERO'S FOREIGN POLICY, according to the same Elcano study. Of the respondents, 54% view the Spanish Prime Minister's foreign policy efforts positively, while 39% take a negative view.
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CONSUMER PRICE INDEX UP AGAIN according to statistics released on Friday by Spain's National Statistics Institute (NIE). November's CPI was 4.1% compared with 3.6% in October. In addition, the European Central Bank, in its monthly economic bulletin released the day before, noted that inflation has risen in Spain, Portugal and the euro zone in general.
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SPANIARDS UP TO THEIR NECKS IN DEBT according to a study by The General Association of Consumers (La Asociación General de Consumidores), ASGECO. The Study of Family Indebtedness (Estudio sobre el endeudamiento de las familias) released by the organization last week reported that 40% of Spanish households have difficulty making ends meet each month, only 30% have money left over at the end of the month, and nearly 60% face the possibility of having to obtain a second mortgage on their homes.
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BARCELONA HAS THE HIGHEST CINEMA TICKET PRICES IN SPAIN AND CORDOBA THE LOWEST according to a comparison done by FACUA.org Consumers in Action (Consumidores en Acción). The survey of movie ticket prices at 104 cinemas in thirty-three cities across Spain found that the price of admission can vary up to 90% nation-wide. Barcelona, A Coruña and Madrid have the most expensive cinemas, against Jaén, Cadiz and Cordoba, the lowest priced. The average price nationally is 5.41 euros. Ticket prices have risen 3.6% over 2006, when the previous study found an average price of 5.22 euros. The average was 5.05 euros in 2005, 4.80 in 2004 and 4.62 in 2003.
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In the report, FACUA denounced as illegal the practice of prohibiting movie-goers from bringing with them beverages or food from outside cinemas. The association recommends that consumers request a complaint form from cinemas to denounce this irregularity, since it is a violation of the General Law for the Defense of Consumers and Users. (La Ley General para la Defensa de los Consumidores y Usuarios.)
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TWO OUT OF EVERY TEN RAMBLERS ARE LOCALS according to a study by the Barcelona NGO Friends of The Rambla (Amigos de La Rambla / Amics de La Rambla). Only 2 out of every 10 people who walk along Barcelona's Las Ramblas are Barcelonans, whereas nearly 60% are foreign tourists. Another 20% or so are visitors, too, but from Spain rather than abroad, with about 10% of these from other parts of Cataluña.

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Of those surveyed, 34% said that Las Ramblas' diversity and cosmopolitanism was what attracted them most; 20% felt there were usually too many people on the famous paseo; 15% indicated that they felt insecure and vulnerable to theives and 5% were there in order to get to La Boqueria public market. The most traveresed section is between Plaza Cataluña and Plaza Real. Most people enter Las Ramblas from Plaza Cataluña, whereas the point of access least frequented is Arc del Teatre street.

From the seaside to the hillside - Part 3 (Vallvidrera)

In my opinion, Vallvidrera, which is perched on the crest of the Collserola hills above Barcelona, is one of the city's loveliest neighborhoods. To get there, I usually take the FGC from Plaza Cataluña. (FGC stands for Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya, which is the name of the Catalonian government railway system. Within the city, FGC trains run underground, but outside the city they climb out into the light. Barcelona's transportation system is completely integrated as far as fares and tickets go. So, a pass for the metro is also a pass for the FGC.)
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Directly in front of Café Zurich are two entrances to the underground Metro and FGC stations. From either of these two entrances one can enter the FGC station. To get to Vallvidrera take any FGC train except the one to Av. Tibidabo. There are television screens throughout the station indicating when and from which track the next train leaves. Since there are trains leaving every few minutes, it's usually possible to hop on a train immediately. I've never had to wait more than about 5 minutes.
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After a short ride, it is necessary to get off the train at the Peu del Funicular station and transfer to the modern little funicular that goes up to Vallvidrera. This funicular station is located in an area known as Lower Vallvidrera (Vallvidrera Inferior). The transfer is easy and fast at this little open-air station; and the ride up the hill, in metal and glass cable cars manufactured in Switzerland, offers some excellent views of the city and sea below. The best views are from the seats in the back of the car.
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The funicular's hours are 4:30am to 12:15am weekdays and 5:30am to 12:45am weekends and public holidays. Cars run every 6 minutes on weekdays and every 10 to 15 minutes on weekends and public holidays.
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Although one wouldn't know it from the sleekly contemporary appearance of the Peu de Funicular station and cable cars, this line has been in operation since 1906, when the rail line was extended from Sarrià to Lower Vallvidrera. It wasn't until 1998 that the funicular was converted into the totally automated system it is today.
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There is only one stop between Lower and Upper Vallvidrera: the tiny Carretera de las Aguas (Water Road) station. At this stop it is common to see hikers and bicyclers getting out. However, I usually prefer to ride to the top and then walk down to the Carretera.
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Next comes Upper Vallvidrera and a fantastic remnant of the 1906 line -- the modernist art nouveau Vallvidrera Superior station. Walking around this little jewel of a station, with its voluptuously curved windows and entrance, is like stepping back in time to the era of Gaudi. Constructed in 1905, the station was designed by the architect Bonaventura Conill i Montobbio, who who designed a good number of the buildings in Vallvidrera. Make sure to visit the viewing platform at the back of the station's lobby.
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From here it is possible to take a city minibus (line 111) to the top of Mount Tibidabo, where a large church sits on top of an amusement park overlooking the city. Since Vallvidrera is actually surrounded by the protected Collserola Natural Park, it is also a great place to start off for a hike in the woody hills. Before doing anything else, however, get to know this quaint little neighborhood a bit.
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The earliest known reference to Vallvidrera appeared in 987, in a document referring to the church of Santa Maria de Vallvidrera and a Gothic style church by that name was built between 1540 and 1587, and is located in what today is the park of Collserola. In the 14th century the "parish" became a "civil jurisdiction." In 1892, what was then the town of Vallvidrera was annexed by the town of Sarrià, which was then annexed by Barcelona in 1921.
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Despite this long history, major urban development didn't begin in Vallvidrera until the second half of the 19th century, when the characteristics of the area a¡changed from that of a village to a location for summer homes of the increasingly prosperous citizens of Barcelona. A "modern" road was not built to link it with the city until 1888, when the Vallvidrera to Tibidabo roadway was constructed. In 1901 a tram was inaugurated to link Barcelona, Tibidabo and Vallvidrera. In 1906 the funicular connected the area with Sarria. At this time Vallvidrera became a popular summer residence for wealthy Barcelonans. Today it is a handsome residential neighborhood with the characteristics of a small, prosperous town.
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Directly across from the funicular station is Plaza Pep Ventura. Walking around the little square and the streets surrounding it, one is surrounded by superb views. Walk to one side of the plaza and gaze over the tiled roofs of lovely little houses out onto the green valley below and the Montserrat massif looming in the west. Most of the houses date to the early 1900s, as can be observed by the years inscriptions on the gables. (One house even has a Catalan poem inscribed on it!)
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Head to the the east along C/ de Queralt, which changes from a street to a series of pedestrian steps. Look between the houses to the left for some great vies of the city. At the foot of the steps you will find the main square of the neighborhood, Plaza de Vallvidrera. Stop in at for a coffee and a sandwich at Bar Josean, which has a back sitting room with an incredible view of Barcelona and the Mediterranean. Nearby, the Can Trampa restaurant doesn't offer much of a view but is a good little spot for lunch or dinner. The plaza also hosts a modernist style wine and cheese shop, as well as a bread shop and a convenience store. One block to the north is the Mercado del Vallvidrera at C/ dels Reis Catolics 2, which sadly is set to close.
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Walk back to Pl. Pep Ventura along C/ de les Alberes for more fantastic views of the valley leading to Montserrat. Once back at the Plaza, walk up the "street" stairs of C/ dels Algarves. More lovely houses, this time a mix of old and new, will lead you to the Hotel Vallvidrera, dating from the 1900s. Today it is a well maintained senior citizens' residence. It is easy to imagine what the place must have looked lime in its heyday.
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At this point C/ dels Algarves rejoins C/ de les Alberes. Continue east along Alberes a bit and on the right you will find a steep "stair street" called Escales del Font del Mont carved into the side of the hill. This is one of the ways to reach the Carretera de la Aguas (Water Road) below. At the bottom of the stairs take a right on Torrent de la font del Mont and walk down until it ends at the Carretera de las Aguas. Once you reach this gravel road, head to the left and walk for about 10 minutes to find yourself in a peaceful wooded area overlooking the panorama of the city and the sea. Breathe in the fresh air, have a seat on one of the benches built alongside the road, walk through the trees above the road -- in other words, relax.
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When you are ready to return to the buzz of the city below, head back in the direction you came, and after about a 5 minute walk beyond the entrance to Torrent de la Font del Mont, where you entered the road, you will find the Carretera de las Aguas (Water Road) funicular station. On the ride down you can enjoy one more glimpse of Barcelona stretching from the hillside to the seaside.
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Carloz

From the seaside to the hillside - Part 2 (Plaza Cataluña)

Once at Plaza Urquinaona, the center of Barcelona, Plaza Cataluña, is only a block away. And it is from here that the trip from the seaside to the hillside continues.

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Plaza Cataluña (or Plaça Catalunya in Catalan; Catalonia Square in English) covers 50,000 square meters (162,500 square feet) and dates from the end of the 19th century, when the medieval wall surrounding the old city was torn down. Since then it has been the site of everything from a circus at the turn of the century, to gun battles during the Spanish civil war, to political gatherings during the democratic transition, to crowds of tourists in recent years. Along with people from all over the world, it is usually packed with pigeons, sight seeing buses, city buses and taxis. There are also plenty of motor scooters and bicycles parked all around the square. During Barcelona's many fiestas there are often live musical performances held in the plaza, with the square jam packed with revelers. Unfortunately, purse snatchers and pick pockets are often around also.

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People walk through or sit on one of the many benches in and around the square or even lie down on the grass under the fountain and sunbathe! There are only about four sidewalk cafes / restaurants (e.g., Cafe Zurich, Cafe Catalunya, Hard Rock Cafe's terrace and Farggi Ice Cream) and none of them would I recommend for much besides the people watching.

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However, I understand that before the civil war Plaza Cataluña was quite a hotbed of theater and cafe life. No theaters have survived and the only cafe that remains from those days is the Cafe Zurich. It is still a popular meeting spot, but don't go there hoping to glimpse a bit of history, as it has been completely rebuilt to suit the El Triangle shopping center that was built around it.

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For a great aerial view of the plaza, go to the restaurant at the top of El Corte Inglés department store. Food and drinks are not too pricey and if you manage to get a window seat the views are unequaled.

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There is a large ceramic star embedded in the center of the square, which is supposed to mark the center of Barcelona. There is also a large water fountain, some neo-classical sculptures and the ugly, indeed almost scary-looking, monument to former regional president Francesc Macia. (The top of this sculpture looks like it might topple over onto the bust of Macia at any moment. The creator of this modern monstrosity is Subirachs.)

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Sitting in the reflecting pool behind the monument is a statue with an interesting history. It is “La Diosa” (La Deessa in Catalan, The Goddess in English), which was sculpted by Josep Clara (1878-1958) between 1908 and 1910. It depicts a nude woman bathing herself. In the early 20th century it was deemed obscene by the then dictator Primo de Rivera and therefore was removed during his rule. (I'm sure he must be spinning in his grave at how much Spain has changed -- now real women and men bathe nude at beaches!)

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In the plaza there is also an attractive little statue by Pablo Gargallo (1881-1934) -- El Pastor de La Flauta (Shepherd with Flute). This is actually a reproduction of the original, which stood here from 1927 to 1986. The original is now in the Pablo Gargallo museum in Zaragoza to protect it from environmental damage.

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Another statue overlooks the square from on high, this one from the face of the building at number 21. (The Hard Rock Cafe is in the same building.) I do not know the history of this statue, but like to think of him as the legendary medieval knight Roland. (Rolando in Spanish, Rotllà in Catalan.) Roland's legend, so significant throughout Europe that most cities have a statue of him, is given a unique twist in Cataluña, where he is often portrayed as a giant in local fiestas.

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Some of the more notable architecture includes the Banco Español de Credito from 1941, the Telefonica building, from 1928, and the Banco de España building from 1948. Walk along the Northeastern side of this building and you can look up to find a guardian angel looking down on you. Sculpted by Madrid artist Angel Ferrant y Vazquez (1890-1961), it commemorates the legend that an angel appeared to Saint Vincent Ferrer (1350-1419) as he stood near this spot outside one of the ancient city gates and reassured him that Barcelona would always be protected by God.

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While you're there, you must stop in next door at one of the best -- and best priced -- ice cream parlors / sweet shops in town, Planelles - Donat. Aside from incredibly delicious ice cream, shakes, chilled drinks and hot drinks, this gourmet shop, which has been in business since the end of the 19th century, also makes and sells its own brand of two very popular Spanish treats -- horchata and turrón. Horchata is a creamy cold drink made from tiger nuts. Turrón is a chunky candy bar filled with nougat and nuts.

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Back at Plaza Cataluña, two of the most prominent edifices are modern buildings -- the El Triangle shopping center and the large El Corte Inglés department store. El Triangle houses various stores, including the large FNAC book/music/electronics store and the aforementioned Zurich Cafe. El Corte Inglés is similar to Macy's, except that like other European department stores, it has a supermarket in the basement. Since it bought out the Spanish division of Marks and Spencer, El Corte Inglés is just about the only department store chain in Spain.

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Protruding from the stark Southeastern side of El Corte Inglés is the ornate remnant of a window from the building that once stood there. The intricate facade depicts several women playing musical instruments, including a drum, an accordion and a flute. I suppose it was just to pretty to demolish along with the rest of the building and, so, it hangs there, "en memoriam."

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To me, the most captivating structure on the square is the one I have not been able to discover much about: the Catalana Occidental Insurance building on the corner of Paseo de Gracia and Ronda San Pedro. This castle like structure dates from the end of the 19th century and today houses offices and apartments. I have learned that it was financed by banker and politician Manuel Girona Agrafel (1818-1905) and was originally called "La Sud America." (If anyone knows anything about the history of this building, please leave a comment.)

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Several important commercial streets converge on Plaza Cataluña: Rambla Cataluña, Las Ramblas, Paseo de Gracia, Puerta del Angel, Ronda San Pedro, Ronda Universidad and Calle Pelayo. (In Catalan, these are all: Rambla Catalunya, Las Ramblas, Passeig de Gracia, Portal de l'Angel, Ronda Sant Pere, Ronda Universitat and Carrer Pelai.) All of these streets make the area a shopper's paradise.

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In addition, there is a lot of life under the plaza, including the main City of Barcelona Tourist Information Center, two metro lines (the Green and Red lines), a Spanish rail (Renfe) station, a Catalan rail (Ferrocarril) station and a few little cafes, shops and newsstands accompanying them.

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To get to our hillside destination, we will head under Plaza Catalunya to take the Ferrocarril. More to come in Part 3.

Why I call it Paella Row

Take a walk from the Barceloneta metro station down Passeig de Joan de Borbo / Paseo de Juan de Borbon to the sea and you will find the following places serving food and/or drink:
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First block:
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None (Don't get disappointed!)
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Second block:
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Charleston's - Don't let the name put you off, because this place specializes in Andalusian tapas. (Maybe Charleston sounds exotic to Spaniards.) They also offer combination platters and sandwiches. No paella, though.
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Bella Istanbul - a Turkish restaurant.
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Costa Brava - a tapas cafe and bar.
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Third Block:
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Pita Hut - a middle eastern fast food joint. (Hold on, hold on! Paella's on the way.)
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Can Tipa - OK, it starts here. This seafood and paella restaurant has been here since 1886 and is a great place.
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Simpre Viva - This upstart has only been around since 1913. Serves very good seafood and paella at good prices.
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Arlequino (Harlequin) - A nice little ice cream/sandwich shop and cafe.
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Restaurante Peru - Despite the name, not a Peruvian restaurant, but, guess what, a seafood and paella restaurant.
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Fourth Block:
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L'arros - the real upstart, this trendy looking place has only been around for a few months. Oh, they specialize in rice dishes, such as PAELLA!
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Bar Martistany - a little tapas and sandwich joint.
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La Xurreria del Port - a little doorway counter that serves freshly made churros, the sweet Spanish pastry. Yummy!
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Noroeste Marisqueria - seafood and paella
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Gelato Fratello - Italian ice cream parlor.
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Port Vell - seafood and paella.
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Hispano - delicious seafood and paella since 1917. There are some lovely old photographs on the walls that offer a pictorial history.
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Fifth Block:
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The Fastnet Irish Cafe and Bar - serves Irish and British food. Very popular with expats and tourists from Britain and Ireland. Duh.
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El Dique - seafood and paella.
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Granja Eugenio - a bit of a greasy spoon, serving breakfast, lunch dinner and tapas.
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La Oficina - seafood and paella.
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Toc de Mar - this place is under new management. I have not been since the change but, apparently they still specialize in seafood and paella.
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Sixth Block:
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Deportivo - seafood and paella.
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Pans i Mes - bread and pastry shop that also sells good little sandwiches.
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Dinos - Italian ice cream parlor. (Perhaps after paella and seafood, Italian ice cream is the next most popular food item in Barceloneta.)
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Seventh Block:
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Ancora - a really ugly place serving seafood and paella.
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El Rey de la Gamba - stretching over 4 addresses in a row, this seafood and paella restaurant is definitely the king in size, if not in quality. Not bad, though.
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Las Purras - sandwiches, tapas, combination plates, seafood and pre-cooked paella. :-(
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El Rey de la Gamba - if there isn't room at the other four locations, here are two more!
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Eighth Block:
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Hotel 54's Raco del Pinotxo - overpriced hotel food. No paella.
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Can Emili - seafood and paella.
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La Mar Salada - excellent seafood and paella at a great price.
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Ninth Block:
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Puda Can Manel - after 137 years, this is the "abuela" of them all. This place has been serving excellent seafood and paella since 1870!
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El suquet de L'Almirall - seafood and paella.
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Focyou - seafood but no paella.
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La Marisqueria del Port - seafood and paella.
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Zahara Coctail Club - trendy bar.
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Can Costa - seafood and paella.
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Marti Villoro - seafood and paella.
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Tenth Block:
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Buenas Migas - foccacia, pannini and salads.
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OK, that's it, we're finally at the sea. Twenty two restaurants serving paella over a 10 block stretch! Now do you see what I mean by Paella Row? (And I haven't even mentioned the 4 seafood and paella restaurants on the other side of the Paseo in the Palau del Mar building, because technically they are not located directly on the Paseo.)

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Of course, just walk onto the beach or into the neighborhood if you want more seafood, paella and other types of restaurants to choose from!
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My top 5 recommendations for paella or seafood on Paella Row:
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Can Tipa
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Siempre Viva
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Hispano
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La Mar Salada
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Puda Can Manel

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I hope you get to enjoy them someday.

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Chao amig@s,

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Carloz

Barceloneta Park (El Parque de la Barceloneta / El Parc de la Barceloneta)

The little sea front Barceloneta Park marks the transition from the old neighborhood of Barceloneta to a new one called Villa Olimpíca. It's a relatively new park located on a site that used to be home to Barcelona's gas company. In fact, a lovely old building that was once part of the complex still sits there, looking somewhat forlorn and abandoned on the park's western side. Towards the park's northeastern end there is a structure dating from 1905: a stone water tower designed by architect Josep Domenech i Estapa. On the eastern side stands a wrought iron circular stage, where musical events are often held.
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The park is laid out along three large areas: the first one extends from its city side at C/ Doctor Aiguader to its sea side at Paseo Maritimo; the second, begins with a direct access point from within the neighborhood of Barceloneta, near the old gas company building, that leads to large curved slopes of greenery with walkways running along them; the third area consists of an enclosed soccer field with an elevated street-wide ramp that was intended to be a foot bridge to Ciutadella Park. Instead, it just ends in mid-air!

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But the view from there is wonderful -- the soccer field and the whole of the park to the south; the medical complex to the east; Ciutadella Park to the north, with Mount Tibidabo in the background; and the gleaming glass high-rise that is the new gas company buliding to the west. The top of this ramp is a nice point to watch the sunset behind Mount Tibidabo, as I did earlier this evening.
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Oddly enough, Barceloneta Park is hardly ever crowded, no matter how packed the beach and the Paseo Maritimo directly in front of it seem to be. Therefore, most of the people who make use of the park are local residents. Aside from enjoying a picnic on the grass or a snooze on a bench, visitors can also have a coffee or drink at the nice little chiringuito with a sea view that is operated by the city's Parks and Gardens Department. If you like a little more activity, like most parks in Barcelona, this one has a children's play-ground, a few outdoor ping-pong tables, a basketball hoop, pitches to play a bowling-ball type game called "petanca" in Spanish and "botxe" in Catalan, as well as a doggy play-ground -- a fenced in area where dogs can run free.
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Other interesting aspects of the park include its unusual mix of pine and mimosa trees, the abundance of wild parakeets that make the park their home and the statue of Simon Bolivar looking like he's ready to head out to the sea. This last was a gift from the government of Venezuela and was unveiled by Spain's King Juan Carlos at the park's 1996 inauguration.
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Well, that's a bit about Barceloneta Park, a nice spot to have a little rest away from the crowd.
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I hope you get to enjoy it someday.
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Chao amig@s,
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Carloz

Next, Barceloneta's seaside

At the seaside end of Paseo Juan de Borbon / Passeig Joan de Borbo (or as I fondly refer to it, Paella Row) you will find a seafront plaza named Pl. del Mar. On the right of the plaza, the Paseo turns off into a semi-industrialized port area, the sea and beach are in front and on on the left is a pair of high rise apartment buildings -- which thankfully are few in Barceloneta. The ground floor of these 70s style towers houses a convenience store, two restaurants (Buenas Migas and KAiKU) and the Seapoint Youth Hostel, Barcelona's only hostel on the beach. Both of the restaurants and the cafe of the hostel offer food and drinks out on the plaza.

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Directly on the beach is Chiringuto del Sol, one of many "chiringuitos" you'll see in Barcelona. Chiringuitos are what Spaniards call the little beach bars/cafes that dot beaches throughout the country. Barcelona's are regulated by the city, even down to their uniform design: small wine colored rectangular bars with slat wood serving areas on one side.

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These places are popular! They sell coffee, drinks, sandwiches and such. There is always music, often supplied by a live DJ. Beach goers mix with beach watchers, locals chat with one another and visitors try to soak in the atmosphere while they can.

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Actually the chiringuito that you first see when you reach Pl. del Mar is not the first one on Barcelona's beach. That one is Chiringuito de Barcelona, located a bit to the right of the plaza. It is marks the edge of Barcelona's predominantly gay and lesbian beach, appropriately named Playa San Sebastian.

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Not much further beyond Chiringuito de Barcelona, Barcelona's beaches end - or, more accurately, they begin there. Therefore, one needs to veer to the left at Pl. del Mar to truly have a walk up Barcelona's coast. Heading that way there are soon two more chiringuitos on the beach side, Chiringuito Goa and Chiringuito Bar Playa 23.

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Meanwhile, on the inland side Barceloneta's residential streets jut out, often with a restaurant or two on their corners. Cal Pinxo is one of the best seafood and paella establishments around, with prices that reflect the fact. You can sit on their terrace or in one of their sea view dining rooms to enjoy the excellent cooking. Definitely worth it!

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Just up the walk a bit and on the lower end of the economic scale, but still within the tasty realm is a little place called Restaurante Venta Mancheca. This joint has no dining room, only a kitchen with a terrace. However, the paella and other items on offer are filling and very affordable.

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Two of the curiouser looking edifices around here are former boat repair centers that now function as an ice cream shop (Heladeria La Lechera) and a surf shop (Wind 220). These two hangar-like structures face the sea side by side and seem to beckon passers-by to have a look inside. I suggest doing so, even if you're not in the mood for a sundae or a wet-suit.

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Just after the Bar Playa 23 Chiringuito, pedestrians are faced with a choice of continuing along at the beach level or of heading up the elevated sea wall that is parallels the Paseo Maritimo / Passeig Maritm. Most people seem to choose to go up along the palm-tree lined walk overlooking the beach.

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At this point the sights on the inland side are not as interesting or attractive, but merely a series of public buildings from a few decades ago: a middle school, a community center, a kindergarten and an elementary school. Fortunately, they are behind the palm trees that run up and down the bicycle lane alongside the Paseo.

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However, the seaside view is always entertaining: people passing along the sidewalk beneath, sunbathers stretched out on the sand, volleyball players, swimmers and, of course, ships, sailboats and such coming and going. Every few meters there is a set of stairs leading down to the lower level, should you get the urge to join those below.

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After a short while there is a jetty on the beach with concrete seats in front of it. These seats are in the form of chaise lounge chairs and are great for relaxing on and gazing around. There is also a children's play site and a little public work-out area for doing leg-lifts, chin-ups, etc.

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On the inland side there is an oasis of green, the Parque de la Barceloneta, followed by the modern Hospital del Mar and then the beginning of the Puerto Olimpíco / Port Olimpíc area.

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However, I'll stop here for a rest and write more details about the park later.

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Chao amig@s,

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Carloz

Barceloneta - a little history and a side-street "show"

Well, I just got in from an evening stroll around the neighborhood. For some reason today's walk sent me back to the first time I visited Barcelona several years ago. It was summertime, too, and that was when I first started to hatch the idea of living abroad.
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As a matter of fact, I remember thinking dreamily at the time that one day I would like to live in the small seaside neighborhood known as Barceloneta -- "little Barcelona." Sometimes I still have to pinch myself to make sure I am not dreaming and that I actually do live here!

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Barceloneta is a colorful little barrio between the harbor and the sea. I have read that its origins date back to 1715, as that was when the plan for it was first completed. It was intended to rehouse people who had been displaced by the building of Fort Ciutadella.

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Today Ciutadella is a lovely park nearby. However before that it was a Spanish fort which tried to keep the Catalans in check. The people eventually got their revenge by tearing it down and replacing it with the park. But that's another story, so let me get back to Barceloneta.

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Barceloneta is still the little triangular grid that was originally designed by a military mind, a French army engineer with the rather prophetic sounding name of Prosper Verboom. Its long, narrow streets were initially home to working class people who made their living from the sea -- sailors, fishers, fishmongers, boat builders, etc. Even though it is no longer such a neighborhood, it still has a nice working class maritime feel.

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For all it's precise layout, it is a colorful chaos of sights and sounds. It's full of cafes, bakeries and bars, with tourists wandering through, locals talking in the streets and clothes hanging on lines in front of the windows of the centuries old multi-story modules that rise up everywhere.

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The collection of restaurants on Barceloneta's beach and harbor sides are renowned for their seafood and paella. Paseo Juan de Borbon (Passeig Joan de Borbo in Catalan) in particular is so packed with such places that I have nick-named it "Paella Row." I often stroll down to Paella Row to get to the sea. It's always a sight to behold, with restaurants and sidewalk cafes crammed with customers and people sauntering to and from the Mediterranean. Sometimes, however, I choose to walk down C/ del Mar (Sea Street) instead.

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Located one street inland from Paella Row, and running parallel to it, C/ del Mar is like most of the little lanes in Barceloneta, except for a couple of things. One is Pl. de la Barceloneta, a public square located about halfway down the street.

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This small plaza is framed by the baroque church of Saint Michael of the Port (San Miguel del Puerto / Sant Miquel del Port) on one side and on the other by a snapshot view of the Port Vell marina, thanks to a break in the buildings along Paella Row.

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The church was built between 1753 and 1755. It had no no bell tower and only a small cupola until 1853 when one was added. Until that time there was a rule that buildings in Barceloneta had to be low enough for cannon balls fired from Fort Ciutadella to fly over!

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It is for this same reason that the lower floors of buildings in the barrio date from the late 1700s while the upper ones are usually from the late 1800s. If you look closely at the buildings, you can see differences in design between the facades of the lower and upper floors.

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In the center of the plaza stands an ornate antique lamppost / drinking fountain, with a Barcelona coat of arms on it. The Can Ganassa tapas bar, on the square's east side, is popular with the locals.

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Whether you sit at one of the bar's terrace tables or simply take a seat at one of the park benches scattered around the square, Pl. de la Barceloneta is a nice spot to rest and enjoy the atmosphere, while trying to imagine how on earth they managed to hold bullfights in the plaza until about 75 years ago. ¡¿?!

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The other unique feature of C/ del Mar is the fact the kitchens of many of Paella Row's restaurants open onto it -- and I mean literally open! For this reason, rich aromas often fill the tiny street and at peak dining times the sights are rather unique. Instead of only checking out the polished decor of restaurant dining rooms, with a stroll down this little street you can turn the tables and catch a glimpse of the utilitarian spectacle out back. To do so it is best start from the beginning of C/ del Mar, at C/ de Ginebra, and continue on to it's end, at C/ Drassana.

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Take this walk at lunch or dinner time and have a look into the open kitchen doors to see silver pans, black pots, large knives, giant ladles and such being wielded by staff dressed in black or white or pin-stripes or checks. Prep cooks chatter, chefs laugh, waiters yell, dishwashers dash out for a cigarette and kitchen managers run in with an ingredient hurriedly purchased around the corner. At times food sounds surround you as you step along -- chopping, frying, stirring, grilling, slicing, bubbling, stacking, steaming, pouring... A feast for the senses and a great run up to a delicious meal on the other side!

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Once you get to C/ Sant Carles, look to your left for a lovely little restaurant named Can Sole. While it certainly is not the best restaurant in the neighborhood, and is somewhat over-priced, it has been serving food in this rustic building for over a century.

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Stop and look up at the frieze of the sun on the corner and walk around the three sides of the building to view the colorful farming, fishing and hunting images painted on its exterior tiles. Speaking of tiles, just down the street at number 59 C/ del Mar, a beautiful tiled icon of the Virgen del Carmen sits above the ornate doorway to a private residence.

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After crossing busy C/ Almiral Cervera, kitchens won't be as frequent on the next block, before a final burst of culinary activity on the last two. However, until then you can take time to notice that here, as in much of Barceloneta, residents of ground floor apartments often have their living room doors open to the street. Neighbors may even pull chairs out onto the sidewalk to visit one another or to watch television sets centered near their doorways. As you pass, simply smile and say, "Hola!"

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You should also pause to look up at the nicely preserved building at number 97, which is the home of the International Dockworkers Council. Just across the street is the back entrance to the only hotel in the neighborhood, Hotel 54 Barceloneta. This recently opened establishment is housed in what was previously the Fisherman's Assocation building.

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As it nears its end, C/ del Mar is denied a direct approach to the sea by the rather ugly facade of an overpriced corporate convenience store. But perhaps that's a blessing in disguise, as the lack of access contributes to the street's being such a nice respite from the crowds of Paella Row. However, just a walk around the corner and you are back with the tourist throng on the great wide way after a refreshing and hunger-inducing walk.

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If you haven't yet, I hope you get to experience it someday!

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Chao amig@s,

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Carloz

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P.S. Wondering where to eat after such a walk? See these previous posts for a couple of suggestions:

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La Mar Salada (The Savory Sea)

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Buenas Migas (Good Crumbs)

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P.P.S For an example of one of the many seasonal activites that occur in Pl. de la Barceloneta, see the following post: The Night of Fire - La Noche del Fuego - La Nit de la Foc. Or, of you want to read other posts which mention my neighborhood, just click on the word Barceloneta in the list of lables below.

A little slice of life from Barcelona

According to the "always reliable" Telefonica, there have been Internet problems throughout Spain all day today. Which could explain why it's taking forever for me to do simple things, like access my blog. So, I'll keep this short and just say that if you are ever in Barcelona and want a mildly weird experience, go to the Carrefour "Express" (lol) supermarket on Las Ramblas. (It used to be a Champion Supermarket and only recently converted to a Carrefour.) This store is almost always choked with tourists -- mostly young ones buying large bottles of beer and other alcoholic beverages. I mean it takes forever to get in and out of that place! I stopped in this evening on my way home just to pick up a carton of milk. It took me about 40 minutes, most of which was spent standing in an incredibly long line. But while you're waiting you can hear all sorts of languages spoken and see how many Europeans, and others, dress when they are on vacation. Not always pretty, but often interesting. Even though the store is not on the beach, it's not uncommon to see people in bathing suits, with towels around their necks and, of course, there are lots of white folks with newly reddened skin. I'll bet that only one in ten of the shoppers in there at any one time is a local resident -- and probably only one in 20 of those is a Spaniard. So, it's a curious experience, even if a little nerve racking at times. Of course, once you leave you enter the great pool of humanity flowing up and down Las Ramblas, but that's another story for another day...

C u round!

Scarlett Johansson, Taxi Tours & Barcelona Taxis in general

I was just on my way home from teaching a class when I came upon police on motorcycles stopping traffic to let a caravan of vehicles through the intersection of Colon and Laietana. Along came a van followed by a truck pulling a Barcelona City Taxi Cab. I didn't notice if Woody Allen was in the truck with the camera but Scarlett Johansson was definitely the platinum blond perched in the back seat of the taxi.

She looked as though she was enjoying her ride, as I believe most taxi passengers in Barcelona do. However, her driver probably didn't speak much English. Taxi drivers here rarely speak the international language of commerce and tourism. In all the years I have lived (and before that, travelled) here, I have only come across one Taxi driver who spoke English.

That's why I was surprised to come across a service company called Barcelona Taxi Tour, offering not only reserved airport pick-up and drop-off but a variety of tours provided by drivers with supposedly "perfect English." Tours include a Gaudí tour, a Moderism Architecture tour, an Olympic tour and a general tour called, "The Global View." According to the web site prices are agreed upon when you make your reservation but it's a safe bet that they don't fall into a back packer's budget. That's OK though, because the city's buses and metro are great - plus Barcelona is a really great place for walking!

If you are a visitor or new to the city and do need to catch a regular taxi, though, here is a little info for you. Barcelona's taxis are regulated by the local government. Aside from controlling rates, another thing is the look of the cab. For that reason Barcelona's taxis are always black and yellow vehicles. Usually they are compact cars but a few are minivans. They are almost always comfortable and air-conditioned.

In front of the airport, train station and bus stations there are special taxi lanes for collecting passengers. On the street, you can flag one down when the green light on top of the car is on. Tip the driver by rounding up slightly - local people do not usually tip more than a few cents or 1 or 2 euros. Although local taxi drivers are usually honest, to be extra safe ask for a receipt as the driver's information is printed on thses. Click here for current information about taxi fares.

Taxis are available anytime, although it can sometimes be a bit of a challenge to find a free one on weekends around 3, 4, 5 and 6 in the morning because of all the people pouring out of bars and discos. That may be why some people don't go home until 7, 8, 9, 10, 11...or later. ;-)

Spain's Saturday News: The bulls, nudes and politicians are running!

The running of the toros begins in Pamplona. The bulls were after the crowds in the streets of Pamplona today for the first 'encierro' (bull run) of the Festival of San Fermin. Of course injuries are inevitable as throngs make a mad dash ahead of the two ton animals charging down the narrow streets, but only seven people have been treated for minor injuries so far.
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Last year, more than 200,000 people traveled to Pamplona, according to the city government, and even more are expected this year because the start of the festival fell on the beginning of a weekend. The major day of the festival is always July 7th, when thousands march and dance through the streets of Pamplona with an effigy of Saint Fermin.
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Every day of the festival has a carnival atmosphere, with rides, dancing and lots of wine and sangria. At night the partying intensifies, with street entertainers and large puppet-like 'giants' roaming around. Then in the morning, the encierro begins again.

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Click here for photos of the fiesta.
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The running of the desnudos, too. This past Thursday Peta (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) organized a nude march through Pamplona. Animal rights activists wearing red scarves, fake horns and not much else chanted slogans such as, ''Bulls yes! Bullfighters no!'' and ''Torture isn't culture.''
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A statement on PETA’s website reads: “The Running of the Bulls and bullfighting are often justified as culture and tradition, but some traditions – like child labour and slavery – are bad and need to end.”

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Click here for photos of the event.
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Then there's the running of the politicos. El Pais reported today that according to a survey conducted by CIS (Centro de Investigaciones Sociológicas), 45% of those surveyed who sRunning of theaw or listened to the debate thought Prime Minister Zapatero won, while only 16.5% thought opposition leader Rajoy did. In addition, 60% responded that Zapatero seemed knowledgeable about the problems facing the country, 70% that he demonstrated moderation during the debate and 63% that he handled criticism well. Rajoy scored 56%, 34% and 34% respectively on the same questions.
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Click here to see more of the results.

Delicious budget dining in Barcelona: La Mar Salada (The Savory Sea)

A good friend treated me to a delicious lunch yesterday. This particular friend and I have a habit of seeking out good places to eat economically, and the place we visited is certainly one of the best we have found.

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While we were enjoying our meal I was reminded of an article from the New York Times that someone recently emailed me. It was written by a young man who had visited Barcelona and complained that it was not a good place to visit for a person on a limited budget. My response to the person who emailed me the article was, "That guy just didn't know where to go!"

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As someone who lives here I can say that Barcelona offers opportunities for all sorts of budgets, from luxury to mid-range to back-packer. For example, yesterday's spot is a place I believe most visitors in the backpacker range could afford and diners on any budget would enjoy.

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La Mar Salada (The Savory Sea) is a lovely little restaurant in my neighborhood, Barceloneta. It is situated on Passeig Joan de Borbo (which I have nicknamed "Paella Row" because it is dotted with restaurants offering varieties of this delicious rice dish) and has a bright, comfortable dining room as well as a clean canopy covered terrace.

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We sat on the terrace and ordered from the "menu of the day" ("menu del día"), which is the selection of specially priced set menus that most Spanish restaurants have each day. In Spanish these offerings are often simply referred to as "el menu." (What we English speakers refer to as "the menu" is "la carta" in Spanish.) Spanish "menus" typically include bread, a starter dish, a main dish, a desert, a drink (bottled water, wine, beer or a soft drink) and a choice of desert or coffee.

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Yesterday's "menu" offerings were varied. Catalan Salad (which included the local 'butifara' sausage), Steamed Mussels, Swiss Chard Au Gratin and Lasagna were some of the choices for the first dish. Options for the second included Paella Mixta, Baked Gilthead Bream, Fillet Steak and Roast Sirloin.

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I opted for the Swiss Chard Au Gratin to start with while my friend selected the Mussels. Not too long after placing the order, two large steaming dishes were delivered to our table. My companion's plate was piled high with beautiful black shells offering up the almost golden meat inside. My dish was about as big as a loaf of bread and as warm and tasty as a freshly made dish should be. It had a light brown crust covering layers of greens baked in a tangy cheese sauce.

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Neither of us could pass up the Paella Mixta, so soon after we finished our "starters" we were served two hot platters full of saffron colored rice doused with shrimp, mussels, clams, scallops, sausage, chicken, sweet pepper, onion, garlic... It had just the right mix of a smoky saffron taste balanced by the spicy blend of seafood and meat flavors. Talk about good!!

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It was hard to believe, but, we still had dessert to come! We bypassed the fresh melon and the Neapolitan ice cream for items made in the kitchen. My friend chose a cake that had a cheese base and a strawberry sauce topping. (I took a bite and it was very tasty.) I had the homemade yogurt, which was exquisite: a goblet shaped dish filled with a cloud of rich, creamy, white yogurt that was perfectly sweet. A scrumptious end to a delicious meal.

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The price for this superbly satisfying meal? Only 9 euros a piece! And that's the price of the "menu del día" at La Mar Salada each weekday at lunch time. So, there you have it -- good value and excellent quality in a great location.

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La Mar Salada
Passeig Joan de Borbo, 58-59
93 221 21 27
Lunch: 1pm - 4:30pm; Dinner: 8pm - 11pm; Closed Tuesdays

Wednesday’s News…………BCN’s El Grec Festival; Spain 2, Catalonia 1; and Thierry Henry’s Shirt

Originally posted by Carloz on June, 2007 at http://myspainblog.wordpress.com/

EL GREC, Barcelona’s Summer Festival has begun! Last night saw the premiere of the 31st El Grec Festival, Barcelona’s summer performing arts festival, with Sacred Monsters, a dance performance by Sylvie Guillem (France) and Akram Khan (India). According to El Periodico de Catalunya, the duo surprised the public at the Montjuic amphitheater and heated up the festival’s cool first night.

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El Grec is geard toward everyone, including hip-hop fans this year. Popular musical performances (e.g., Barcelona Big Latin Ensemble, Laurie Anderson, Jorge Drexler, Antony and the Johnsons) and family entertainment (Circus Night, the Wizard of Oz), will be held along with classic works, like Shakespeare’s A Winter’s Tale and Goldoni’s La famiglia dell’antiquario. New works like La Fura dels Baus’ Imperium will alternate with innovative dance and theater, like that of Nau Ivanov, La Caldera de Gracia and the Sant Andreu Teatre.

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Here’s a link to the program: http://www.barcelonafestival.com/eng/programme
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Spain is number 2 and Catalonia number 1! Spain is the world’s 2nd most popular tourist destination, and within Spain, Catalonia is the most popular Autonomous Region. Between January and May of 2007 a total of 5.1 million tourists from other countries visited Catalonia – 25.3% of all foreign tourists who came to Spain according to data presented yesterday by the secretary of Innovation, Universities and Business, Josep Huguet. The most popular areas in Catalonia were Barcelona, followed by the Costa del Maresme, the Costa del Garraf, and the Costa Daurada.

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Number 14 fever: Vendors report that Henry’s number 14 T-Shirt is fast on the road to being the second most popular seller among Barça souvenirs. Watch out Ronaldinho!

Spain’s Sunday News Highlights: Who are more undesirable - French tourists, cats, dogs or politicians? Read and decide!

Fresh from reading El Pais and El Periodico at the beach, here are some of the items that struck me:

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Hoteliers Fear French Tourists and Idolize the Japanese.

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(By the way, this article had me, and the French friend who was with me, howling!)
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According to a survey of European hoteliers by GfK for Expedia, the Japanese are the favorite tourists, while the French — well the article said, “son groseros, quejicas y no se adapten a la cultura del lugar que visitan.” (They are rude, complaining and do not adapt themselves to the culture of the places they visit.)

.Where the Japanese were considered polite and interested in local culture and cuisine, the French were generally described as poor tippers who refuse to even try to learn a few words of the language of the host country and who show little interest in trying local culinary specialties. Only in fashion consciousness did they excel, along with Italians and Spaniards.

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The article also pointed out that the survey broke with some sterotypes; namely, that of American’s as arrogant and not interested in other languages. Although Americans ranked highest in the category of complainers and were seen as the worst dressers, they were ranked number one in the categories of trying to speak the local language, interested in trying the local cuisine and tipping.

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The Germans and British were noted for their lack of fashion sense. The Russians and the British scored low on respecting local customs.

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All-in-all, the top 5 tourist groups were: 1. Japanese; 2. Americans; 3. Swiss; 4. Swedish and 5. Germans. At the bottom of the list of 28 nationalities were: 24. British; 25. Russians; 26. Chinese; 27. Indians and 28. French.

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The article then had an interesting postscript about a Japanese doctor who has identifed something called the Paris Syndrome. Here is my translation of what was written about this condition:

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“That the words thanks and please have almost disappeared from the dictionaries of the French is not only verified by the GfK survey, which was carried out in April. It is also verified, with genuine fear, by the Japanese that land in the French capital. The cultural clash that occurs between the code of reverential conduct and hyper-respectfulness of the Japanese visitors and the aggressiveness and lack of courtesy of many waiters, sales clerks and Parisian cabdrivers is transformed, in some cases, into an illness that has been named the Paris Syndrome by Dr. Hiroaki Ota.

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“Each year he diagnoses about twenty cases among subjects of the Chrysanthemum Throne who visit the city they idealize as the mecca of culture and love. Auditory and visual hallucinations, feelings of persecution, confusion, anguish and even depression are some of the symptoms. There are some who do not overcome the clash. In the most serious cases, he opts for hospitalizing and repatriating the patient.”

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Clcik here for the online version of the article.

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This country is going to the dogs - and cats: Sticking with El Periodico and surveys, in an article entitled The Spaniard, tolerant of pets, another poll found that 53% of Spaniards interviewed were in favor of cats and dogs being allowed in hotels, restaurants, beaches and other public places, while another 37% thought this should be allowed as long as the animals behave themselves.

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The Good, the Bad and the Ugly: Both El Pais and El Periodico had a lot of coverage of the agreement reached among the 27 EU countries on a new “treaty.” El Periodico claimed, “Europe Unblocked with Concessions to Poland” , while El Pais announced “Europe Regains Its Pulse.”

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El Pais described Merkel as having played the bad cop and Sarkozy the good in negotiations with Poland at the meeting of EU leaders in Brussels this weekend. It reported that Germany threatened to leave Poland out of future negotiations on the treaty by the Inter-Governmental Conference Group if President Kaczynski continued to hold up the agreement. The paper claimed that Merkel’s forcefulness, along with Sarkozy’s skilled negotiations over the telephone with Prime Minister Kaczynski (who was in Warsaw) were key elements of a successful strategy. It also cited efforts by the PMs of Spain, Britain and Luxembourg: Zapatero, Blair and Junker.

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Tweedele Dumb and Tweedle Dumber: The Kaczynski brothers are increasingly depicted in an unfavorable light in much of the Spanish media. A cartoon in today’s El Pais depicted them wearing identical police officer uniforms and interchangable scowls while looking down at a pair of ants on a beach. The caption read: “Polish police check with horror on the promiscuous nudity of ants on the beaches of the Baltic sea.”

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Click here to see the cartoon.

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And that’s all from me from Spain for now…

Copied from original http://myspainblog.wordpress.com/ posting by Carloz on 24 June, 2007