Why I call it Paella Row

Take a walk from the Barceloneta metro station down Passeig de Joan de Borbo / Paseo de Juan de Borbon to the sea and you will find the following places serving food and/or drink:
.

First block:
.
None (Don't get disappointed!)
.
Second block:
.
Charleston's - Don't let the name put you off, because this place specializes in Andalusian tapas. (Maybe Charleston sounds exotic to Spaniards.) They also offer combination platters and sandwiches. No paella, though.
.
Bella Istanbul - a Turkish restaurant.
.
Costa Brava - a tapas cafe and bar.
.
Third Block:
.
Pita Hut - a middle eastern fast food joint. (Hold on, hold on! Paella's on the way.)
.
Can Tipa - OK, it starts here. This seafood and paella restaurant has been here since 1886 and is a great place.
.
Simpre Viva - This upstart has only been around since 1913. Serves very good seafood and paella at good prices.
.
Arlequino (Harlequin) - A nice little ice cream/sandwich shop and cafe.
.
Restaurante Peru - Despite the name, not a Peruvian restaurant, but, guess what, a seafood and paella restaurant.
.
Fourth Block:
.
L'arros - the real upstart, this trendy looking place has only been around for a few months. Oh, they specialize in rice dishes, such as PAELLA!
.
Bar Martistany - a little tapas and sandwich joint.
.
La Xurreria del Port - a little doorway counter that serves freshly made churros, the sweet Spanish pastry. Yummy!
.
Noroeste Marisqueria - seafood and paella
.
Gelato Fratello - Italian ice cream parlor.
.
Port Vell - seafood and paella.
.
Hispano - delicious seafood and paella since 1917. There are some lovely old photographs on the walls that offer a pictorial history.
.
Fifth Block:
.
The Fastnet Irish Cafe and Bar - serves Irish and British food. Very popular with expats and tourists from Britain and Ireland. Duh.
.
El Dique - seafood and paella.
.
Granja Eugenio - a bit of a greasy spoon, serving breakfast, lunch dinner and tapas.
.
La Oficina - seafood and paella.
.
Toc de Mar - this place is under new management. I have not been since the change but, apparently they still specialize in seafood and paella.
.
Sixth Block:
.
Deportivo - seafood and paella.
.
Pans i Mes - bread and pastry shop that also sells good little sandwiches.
.
Dinos - Italian ice cream parlor. (Perhaps after paella and seafood, Italian ice cream is the next most popular food item in Barceloneta.)
.
Seventh Block:
.
Ancora - a really ugly place serving seafood and paella.
.
El Rey de la Gamba - stretching over 4 addresses in a row, this seafood and paella restaurant is definitely the king in size, if not in quality. Not bad, though.
.
Las Purras - sandwiches, tapas, combination plates, seafood and pre-cooked paella. :-(
.
El Rey de la Gamba - if there isn't room at the other four locations, here are two more!
.
Eighth Block:
.
Hotel 54's Raco del Pinotxo - overpriced hotel food. No paella.
.
Can Emili - seafood and paella.
.
La Mar Salada - excellent seafood and paella at a great price.
.
Ninth Block:
.
Puda Can Manel - after 137 years, this is the "abuela" of them all. This place has been serving excellent seafood and paella since 1870!
.
El suquet de L'Almirall - seafood and paella.
.
Focyou - seafood but no paella.
.
La Marisqueria del Port - seafood and paella.
.
Zahara Coctail Club - trendy bar.
.
Can Costa - seafood and paella.
.
Marti Villoro - seafood and paella.
.
Tenth Block:
.
Buenas Migas - foccacia, pannini and salads.
.
OK, that's it, we're finally at the sea. Twenty two restaurants serving paella over a 10 block stretch! Now do you see what I mean by Paella Row? (And I haven't even mentioned the 4 seafood and paella restaurants on the other side of the Paseo in the Palau del Mar building, because technically they are not located directly on the Paseo.)

.

Of course, just walk onto the beach or into the neighborhood if you want more seafood, paella and other types of restaurants to choose from!
.
My top 5 recommendations for paella or seafood on Paella Row:
.
Can Tipa
.
Siempre Viva
.
Hispano
.
La Mar Salada
.
Puda Can Manel

.

I hope you get to enjoy them someday.

.

Chao amig@s,

.

Carloz

Barceloneta - a little history and a side-street "show"

Well, I just got in from an evening stroll around the neighborhood. For some reason today's walk sent me back to the first time I visited Barcelona several years ago. It was summertime, too, and that was when I first started to hatch the idea of living abroad.
.

As a matter of fact, I remember thinking dreamily at the time that one day I would like to live in the small seaside neighborhood known as Barceloneta -- "little Barcelona." Sometimes I still have to pinch myself to make sure I am not dreaming and that I actually do live here!

.
Barceloneta is a colorful little barrio between the harbor and the sea. I have read that its origins date back to 1715, as that was when the plan for it was first completed. It was intended to rehouse people who had been displaced by the building of Fort Ciutadella.

.

Today Ciutadella is a lovely park nearby. However before that it was a Spanish fort which tried to keep the Catalans in check. The people eventually got their revenge by tearing it down and replacing it with the park. But that's another story, so let me get back to Barceloneta.

.

Barceloneta is still the little triangular grid that was originally designed by a military mind, a French army engineer with the rather prophetic sounding name of Prosper Verboom. Its long, narrow streets were initially home to working class people who made their living from the sea -- sailors, fishers, fishmongers, boat builders, etc. Even though it is no longer such a neighborhood, it still has a nice working class maritime feel.

.

For all it's precise layout, it is a colorful chaos of sights and sounds. It's full of cafes, bakeries and bars, with tourists wandering through, locals talking in the streets and clothes hanging on lines in front of the windows of the centuries old multi-story modules that rise up everywhere.

.

The collection of restaurants on Barceloneta's beach and harbor sides are renowned for their seafood and paella. Paseo Juan de Borbon (Passeig Joan de Borbo in Catalan) in particular is so packed with such places that I have nick-named it "Paella Row." I often stroll down to Paella Row to get to the sea. It's always a sight to behold, with restaurants and sidewalk cafes crammed with customers and people sauntering to and from the Mediterranean. Sometimes, however, I choose to walk down C/ del Mar (Sea Street) instead.

.

Located one street inland from Paella Row, and running parallel to it, C/ del Mar is like most of the little lanes in Barceloneta, except for a couple of things. One is Pl. de la Barceloneta, a public square located about halfway down the street.

.

This small plaza is framed by the baroque church of Saint Michael of the Port (San Miguel del Puerto / Sant Miquel del Port) on one side and on the other by a snapshot view of the Port Vell marina, thanks to a break in the buildings along Paella Row.

.

The church was built between 1753 and 1755. It had no no bell tower and only a small cupola until 1853 when one was added. Until that time there was a rule that buildings in Barceloneta had to be low enough for cannon balls fired from Fort Ciutadella to fly over!

.

It is for this same reason that the lower floors of buildings in the barrio date from the late 1700s while the upper ones are usually from the late 1800s. If you look closely at the buildings, you can see differences in design between the facades of the lower and upper floors.

.

In the center of the plaza stands an ornate antique lamppost / drinking fountain, with a Barcelona coat of arms on it. The Can Ganassa tapas bar, on the square's east side, is popular with the locals.

.

Whether you sit at one of the bar's terrace tables or simply take a seat at one of the park benches scattered around the square, Pl. de la Barceloneta is a nice spot to rest and enjoy the atmosphere, while trying to imagine how on earth they managed to hold bullfights in the plaza until about 75 years ago. ¡¿?!

.

The other unique feature of C/ del Mar is the fact the kitchens of many of Paella Row's restaurants open onto it -- and I mean literally open! For this reason, rich aromas often fill the tiny street and at peak dining times the sights are rather unique. Instead of only checking out the polished decor of restaurant dining rooms, with a stroll down this little street you can turn the tables and catch a glimpse of the utilitarian spectacle out back. To do so it is best start from the beginning of C/ del Mar, at C/ de Ginebra, and continue on to it's end, at C/ Drassana.

.

Take this walk at lunch or dinner time and have a look into the open kitchen doors to see silver pans, black pots, large knives, giant ladles and such being wielded by staff dressed in black or white or pin-stripes or checks. Prep cooks chatter, chefs laugh, waiters yell, dishwashers dash out for a cigarette and kitchen managers run in with an ingredient hurriedly purchased around the corner. At times food sounds surround you as you step along -- chopping, frying, stirring, grilling, slicing, bubbling, stacking, steaming, pouring... A feast for the senses and a great run up to a delicious meal on the other side!

.

Once you get to C/ Sant Carles, look to your left for a lovely little restaurant named Can Sole. While it certainly is not the best restaurant in the neighborhood, and is somewhat over-priced, it has been serving food in this rustic building for over a century.

.

Stop and look up at the frieze of the sun on the corner and walk around the three sides of the building to view the colorful farming, fishing and hunting images painted on its exterior tiles. Speaking of tiles, just down the street at number 59 C/ del Mar, a beautiful tiled icon of the Virgen del Carmen sits above the ornate doorway to a private residence.

.

After crossing busy C/ Almiral Cervera, kitchens won't be as frequent on the next block, before a final burst of culinary activity on the last two. However, until then you can take time to notice that here, as in much of Barceloneta, residents of ground floor apartments often have their living room doors open to the street. Neighbors may even pull chairs out onto the sidewalk to visit one another or to watch television sets centered near their doorways. As you pass, simply smile and say, "Hola!"

.

You should also pause to look up at the nicely preserved building at number 97, which is the home of the International Dockworkers Council. Just across the street is the back entrance to the only hotel in the neighborhood, Hotel 54 Barceloneta. This recently opened establishment is housed in what was previously the Fisherman's Assocation building.

.

As it nears its end, C/ del Mar is denied a direct approach to the sea by the rather ugly facade of an overpriced corporate convenience store. But perhaps that's a blessing in disguise, as the lack of access contributes to the street's being such a nice respite from the crowds of Paella Row. However, just a walk around the corner and you are back with the tourist throng on the great wide way after a refreshing and hunger-inducing walk.

.

If you haven't yet, I hope you get to experience it someday!

.

Chao amig@s,

.

Carloz

.

P.S. Wondering where to eat after such a walk? See these previous posts for a couple of suggestions:

.

La Mar Salada (The Savory Sea)

.

Buenas Migas (Good Crumbs)

.

P.P.S For an example of one of the many seasonal activites that occur in Pl. de la Barceloneta, see the following post: The Night of Fire - La Noche del Fuego - La Nit de la Foc. Or, of you want to read other posts which mention my neighborhood, just click on the word Barceloneta in the list of lables below.

Next, Barceloneta's seaside

At the seaside end of Paseo Juan de Borbon / Passeig Joan de Borbo (or as I fondly refer to it, Paella Row) you will find a seafront plaza named Pl. del Mar. On the right of the plaza, the Paseo turns off into a semi-industrialized port area, the sea and beach are in front and on on the left is a pair of high rise apartment buildings -- which thankfully are few in Barceloneta. The ground floor of these 70s style towers houses a convenience store, two restaurants (Buenas Migas and KAiKU) and the Seapoint Youth Hostel, Barcelona's only hostel on the beach. Both of the restaurants and the cafe of the hostel offer food and drinks out on the plaza.

.

Directly on the beach is Chiringuto del Sol, one of many "chiringuitos" you'll see in Barcelona. Chiringuitos are what Spaniards call the little beach bars/cafes that dot beaches throughout the country. Barcelona's are regulated by the city, even down to their uniform design: small wine colored rectangular bars with slat wood serving areas on one side.

.

These places are popular! They sell coffee, drinks, sandwiches and such. There is always music, often supplied by a live DJ. Beach goers mix with beach watchers, locals chat with one another and visitors try to soak in the atmosphere while they can.

.

Actually the chiringuito that you first see when you reach Pl. del Mar is not the first one on Barcelona's beach. That one is Chiringuito de Barcelona, located a bit to the right of the plaza. It is marks the edge of Barcelona's predominantly gay and lesbian beach, appropriately named Playa San Sebastian.

.

Not much further beyond Chiringuito de Barcelona, Barcelona's beaches end - or, more accurately, they begin there. Therefore, one needs to veer to the left at Pl. del Mar to truly have a walk up Barcelona's coast. Heading that way there are soon two more chiringuitos on the beach side, Chiringuito Goa and Chiringuito Bar Playa 23.

.

Meanwhile, on the inland side Barceloneta's residential streets jut out, often with a restaurant or two on their corners. Cal Pinxo is one of the best seafood and paella establishments around, with prices that reflect the fact. You can sit on their terrace or in one of their sea view dining rooms to enjoy the excellent cooking. Definitely worth it!

.

Just up the walk a bit and on the lower end of the economic scale, but still within the tasty realm is a little place called Restaurante Venta Mancheca. This joint has no dining room, only a kitchen with a terrace. However, the paella and other items on offer are filling and very affordable.

.

Two of the curiouser looking edifices around here are former boat repair centers that now function as an ice cream shop (Heladeria La Lechera) and a surf shop (Wind 220). These two hangar-like structures face the sea side by side and seem to beckon passers-by to have a look inside. I suggest doing so, even if you're not in the mood for a sundae or a wet-suit.

.

Just after the Bar Playa 23 Chiringuito, pedestrians are faced with a choice of continuing along at the beach level or of heading up the elevated sea wall that is parallels the Paseo Maritimo / Passeig Maritm. Most people seem to choose to go up along the palm-tree lined walk overlooking the beach.

.

At this point the sights on the inland side are not as interesting or attractive, but merely a series of public buildings from a few decades ago: a middle school, a community center, a kindergarten and an elementary school. Fortunately, they are behind the palm trees that run up and down the bicycle lane alongside the Paseo.

.

However, the seaside view is always entertaining: people passing along the sidewalk beneath, sunbathers stretched out on the sand, volleyball players, swimmers and, of course, ships, sailboats and such coming and going. Every few meters there is a set of stairs leading down to the lower level, should you get the urge to join those below.

.

After a short while there is a jetty on the beach with concrete seats in front of it. These seats are in the form of chaise lounge chairs and are great for relaxing on and gazing around. There is also a children's play site and a little public work-out area for doing leg-lifts, chin-ups, etc.

.

On the inland side there is an oasis of green, the Parque de la Barceloneta, followed by the modern Hospital del Mar and then the beginning of the Puerto Olimpíco / Port Olimpíc area.

.

However, I'll stop here for a rest and write more details about the park later.

.

Chao amig@s,

.

Carloz

Delicious budget dining in Barcelona: La Mar Salada (The Savory Sea)

A good friend treated me to a delicious lunch yesterday. This particular friend and I have a habit of seeking out good places to eat economically, and the place we visited is certainly one of the best we have found.

.

While we were enjoying our meal I was reminded of an article from the New York Times that someone recently emailed me. It was written by a young man who had visited Barcelona and complained that it was not a good place to visit for a person on a limited budget. My response to the person who emailed me the article was, "That guy just didn't know where to go!"

.

As someone who lives here I can say that Barcelona offers opportunities for all sorts of budgets, from luxury to mid-range to back-packer. For example, yesterday's spot is a place I believe most visitors in the backpacker range could afford and diners on any budget would enjoy.

.

La Mar Salada (The Savory Sea) is a lovely little restaurant in my neighborhood, Barceloneta. It is situated on Passeig Joan de Borbo (which I have nicknamed "Paella Row" because it is dotted with restaurants offering varieties of this delicious rice dish) and has a bright, comfortable dining room as well as a clean canopy covered terrace.

.

We sat on the terrace and ordered from the "menu of the day" ("menu del día"), which is the selection of specially priced set menus that most Spanish restaurants have each day. In Spanish these offerings are often simply referred to as "el menu." (What we English speakers refer to as "the menu" is "la carta" in Spanish.) Spanish "menus" typically include bread, a starter dish, a main dish, a desert, a drink (bottled water, wine, beer or a soft drink) and a choice of desert or coffee.

.

Yesterday's "menu" offerings were varied. Catalan Salad (which included the local 'butifara' sausage), Steamed Mussels, Swiss Chard Au Gratin and Lasagna were some of the choices for the first dish. Options for the second included Paella Mixta, Baked Gilthead Bream, Fillet Steak and Roast Sirloin.

.

I opted for the Swiss Chard Au Gratin to start with while my friend selected the Mussels. Not too long after placing the order, two large steaming dishes were delivered to our table. My companion's plate was piled high with beautiful black shells offering up the almost golden meat inside. My dish was about as big as a loaf of bread and as warm and tasty as a freshly made dish should be. It had a light brown crust covering layers of greens baked in a tangy cheese sauce.

.

Neither of us could pass up the Paella Mixta, so soon after we finished our "starters" we were served two hot platters full of saffron colored rice doused with shrimp, mussels, clams, scallops, sausage, chicken, sweet pepper, onion, garlic... It had just the right mix of a smoky saffron taste balanced by the spicy blend of seafood and meat flavors. Talk about good!!

.

It was hard to believe, but, we still had dessert to come! We bypassed the fresh melon and the Neapolitan ice cream for items made in the kitchen. My friend chose a cake that had a cheese base and a strawberry sauce topping. (I took a bite and it was very tasty.) I had the homemade yogurt, which was exquisite: a goblet shaped dish filled with a cloud of rich, creamy, white yogurt that was perfectly sweet. A scrumptious end to a delicious meal.

.

The price for this superbly satisfying meal? Only 9 euros a piece! And that's the price of the "menu del día" at La Mar Salada each weekday at lunch time. So, there you have it -- good value and excellent quality in a great location.

.

La Mar Salada
Passeig Joan de Borbo, 58-59
93 221 21 27
Lunch: 1pm - 4:30pm; Dinner: 8pm - 11pm; Closed Tuesdays